I just got a 95 f150 with 351 efi id like to put the motor in my 49 f3 was wandering what is all need to to keep the motor running strong. is there anything I can eliminate to clean up the wiring and vacuum lines. any help would be great

 

Yes a lot can be done to clean up the motor, the smog(air injection) system can be deleted completely and that will go a long ways to streamlining the vacuum lines and eliminating extra hoses. If you pull the upper intake off(6 bolts one hidden under the middle) you can then disconnect the whole wiring harness and follow that all the way back to the computer, everything attached has to come with it. Does this truck have an auto trans and are you planning to use that trans? If it is an auto it has overdrive and it is completely computer controlled by the engine computer, so there will be a harness that goes down to the trans from the main engine harness. Vehicle speed is also a required computer input for correct trans operation and that system includes a VSS sensor in the rear axle and a PSOM module in the dash cluster. Bottom line.. there is a lot of stuff needed for this particular system.

Now if you just want to use the motor there are versions of this system that don't include transmission control and don't require the PSOM, all you need is a PCM from an earlier 5.8 truck('88-91) and then you can eliminate all the extra wiring from the harness you have for a much cleaner install.

 

all im planning on using s the motor the trans is an auto but its 4x4 im planning on a c4 behind it

 

the only acc. I plan on using is an alternator (most likely a gm style). so I really don't need a serpentine system. what need to be changed. thinking the waterpump is reverse rotation. can I just change it or do I need to change timing covers aswell?
also id planning on running shorty headers. what should I do with the egr valve setup that goes to the pass. manifold

 

honestly i would run the motor as it is, including the serpetine belt setup. you can get a smog pump delete pully and an AC delete pully. run mustang computer and wiring harness for simplicity. Also the altenator on that year truck is a 3g design which is a reliable alt and would be a 95amp unit, you can upgrade to a 130amp alt easily.

 

but im not running p/s smog pump or ac whats the point in having a bunch of delete stuff when I only need one v belt anyway

 

Serpentine belts are self adjusting, more reliable and can transmit more power to accessories. If you're planing on using a high output alternator you'll want to stay with the serpentine as a v-belt won't have enough strength to power it unless you go with a double belt setup. A single 1/2" belt is limited to 100 amps tops, and that's with no other loads on it other than the water pump.

You could always keep the p/s pump and use it to power a hydraulic front winch. That'd be a nice setup.

But I agree it does seem silly to add a bunch of delete pulleys. As in life, everything is a compromise.

 

finally planning on going junk yard shopping for parts.
for the 88-91 PCM do I need the wiring too or will my harness hook up with just more wiring coming out of it.
id also like to delete the egr valve so I can run headers
also instead of a c4 im planning on running a m5r2 5 speed out of this style truck aswell
hoping everything goes together over the winter. this summer would have been a good time to work on it but I had surgery on my shoulder so I only had use of 1 arm for the last 5 months, not able to work through this time aswell cut the play money out all the time and no funds

 

Your harness will work.


Bad news.. you can't delete EGR without a tuner.

Good news.. you have 2 options.
1) add a bung for the tube to the front header pipe, the female end of another EGR tube works great as a bung.
2) Just sandwich a piece of sheetmetal between the EGR valve and the intake and leave the pipe off completely. Reconnect the vacuum line and electrical connector to the valve so the system goes through the motions, it won't pass any exhaust obviously but that won't make any difference to engine operation that you will notice.

 

you can delete egr but you have to put a resistor in its place in the wiring it makes the computer think its working

 

No that doesn't work. The computer expects to see the EGR valve move when it commands it to, that is indicated by a varying resistance from the EGR position sensor. A static unchanging resistance tells the computer the valve isn't moving so it sets a code and turns on the check engine light.

 

is there any relays or anything that are hidden in the cab that need to go with the system to make it run. I know like on my 95 escort the fuel pump relays is under the dash anything like this on the trucks I should be aware of. the city says i need to make the parts truck disappear SOON so i need to get the parts i need and send it on its way. also for the check engine light can i just run a led light or something since i wont have the factory gauge cluster

 

The only other part for the EGR system is the solenoid on the bracket right next to the ignition coil facing the front, it's called the EVR for
EGR Vacuum Regulator. And yes you could install a small light or LED anywhere on the dash to act as a check engine light.