Gauges not functioning? (also rag-joint question)
#1
Gauges not functioning? (also rag-joint question)
I just started tinkering with my new $100 '77 f150 and while wrenching on it today, I realized the gauges don't seem to be functioning (except the fuel gauge). Temp, battery, oil pressure, none of them are functioning. Is there a common problem I'm not aware of or have all the sending units gone bad together? lol.
Also, as a side note, my rag joint is destroyed. I bought a universal rubber rag joint for $11 dollars to avoid the $60 oe replacement, but it doesn't look like it'll work. Anybody have any sources for inexpensive rag joints. Also, it seems like the easiest way to unbolt the steering box (power steering) and move it down a bit after removing the nuts/bolts on the rag joint. Still looks like a bit of a pain in the ***, but is there an easier way I'm not seeing?
Also, as a side note, my rag joint is destroyed. I bought a universal rubber rag joint for $11 dollars to avoid the $60 oe replacement, but it doesn't look like it'll work. Anybody have any sources for inexpensive rag joints. Also, it seems like the easiest way to unbolt the steering box (power steering) and move it down a bit after removing the nuts/bolts on the rag joint. Still looks like a bit of a pain in the ***, but is there an easier way I'm not seeing?
#2
Can't help on gauges . Removing the rag joint is move the gear or loosen and slide the column up a little is the way i do it. I did away with the ugly rag joint the same way i have done all other 6 dent sides i have owned. I replaced them with a stainless bearing Borguson U-joints , but not cheap, about the same cost as a new complete rag joint. I feel safer with all steel in my steering system and not a piece of rubber , fabric belting . There is a little more road feel though the steel than the rubber with power steering which i like.
#3
Welcome to FTE, lots of good people here.
On the gauges, first, don't bother trying to get the ammeter to work, they never do. Even when the trucks were new they had problems, so much so that Ford released a TSB (technical service bulletin) on them.
On the oil and temp, a quick test, turn the ignition "on" then ground the leads that go to the sending units. If the needles on the gauges swing all the way over then the problem is the sending unit. If the needles don't move there is a problem upstream of the senders.
Because your fuel gauge is working, the power to the gauges should be good.
On the gauges, first, don't bother trying to get the ammeter to work, they never do. Even when the trucks were new they had problems, so much so that Ford released a TSB (technical service bulletin) on them.
On the oil and temp, a quick test, turn the ignition "on" then ground the leads that go to the sending units. If the needles on the gauges swing all the way over then the problem is the sending unit. If the needles don't move there is a problem upstream of the senders.
Because your fuel gauge is working, the power to the gauges should be good.
#4
With the 5 dents I have owned I can bet that the back of that gauge cluster is brittle and falling apart.. If the temp and oil gauge aren't working at all the first thing I would check were the plugs on the sensors in the block..
these trucks were and still are EVERYONES favorite and most if the time that means there has been alot of "shady" electrical work done.. .. it seems like the #1 place to find an electrical mess is Behind the ignition switch..
But on an up note, if the fuel and speedo are working I would just invest In a few aftermarket gauges.. That's never a bad idea!!
these trucks were and still are EVERYONES favorite and most if the time that means there has been alot of "shady" electrical work done.. .. it seems like the #1 place to find an electrical mess is Behind the ignition switch..
But on an up note, if the fuel and speedo are working I would just invest In a few aftermarket gauges.. That's never a bad idea!!
#5
#6
Water or oil can be equally as deadly.. I understand not liking extra gauges but it is VERY comforting to be able to see it real time vs by wire.. kinda freaky watching the oil pressure drop to 15 or lower at low idle and see the dash gauge sitting above half..
But to get that factory cluster going again you definately have a little gremlin somewhere
But to get that factory cluster going again you definately have a little gremlin somewhere
#7
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#8
Dad got a 78 and it had holes drilled EVERYWHERE in the lower dash.. it took me 2 weeks to rewire all that crap and make it look good again.. well when you get it sorted out you'll have one tough truck that'll be with you from now on..
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#12
I had to get an all-in-one dizzy because the old wiring kept frying ign boxes. There were 3 in the bed when I bought it, and I cooked two myself. I've learned a ton by fixing the mistakes though.
#13
Well, at least we get to know our trucks inside out by fixing the damage. I am rewiring my heat/ac and gauges right now because my PO sliced and diced the harness.
I had to get an all-in-one dizzy because the old wiring kept frying ign boxes. There were 3 in the bed when I bought it, and I cooked two myself. I've learned a ton by fixing the mistakes though.
I had to get an all-in-one dizzy because the old wiring kept frying ign boxes. There were 3 in the bed when I bought it, and I cooked two myself. I've learned a ton by fixing the mistakes though.
#14
There ya go, there is only one way to learn.. I have been just about through these trucks but it never fails for something to make me step back and scratch my head for awhile every time I'm wrenching on one.. Did you go with the HEI style dizzy with the coil pack in the distributor cap? I'm fixing to drop one in my 66 and was wondering on the reliability vs dealing with the duraspark box or older points..
#15
Sorry for getting off-topic shane