Thanks tylus! Any idea which relay in the fuse box it may be? The strange part is the cluater worked then I got the truck started and it stopped but the other accessories never worked once I hooked up the ignitiom again.

 

I just found the location on google lol TGFG. I'll check it out when I get home but can I replace the relay with a standard one or is it special from ford?

 

looks like a standard relay (from memory). there are 3 relays in a row there. just interchange them and see what happens. if the problem moves, you found it

 

Will do ill see what happens and if I need to replace it I'll try a standard relay.

 

Here are a few pics of it as of now for you guys to faze upon lol.

Frame with everything mounted except plastic dash pieces.


A/C conversion boxes (will be undercoated before final assembly.


Finally the frame installed with the column and the RS wiring hanging out from under it until i get it all sorted out.

 

So through process of elimination the relay is still good but even with the cluster removed I get nothing...

I would like to note though that when I click the key back to the accessory position there is no relay clicking going on... grounding issue maybe? I moved the 3 dash ground wires.

 

Yes! Finally found the fuse it was the second to last one lol it was a 10 amp that blew and now it all works except the radio and vents which is strange because there are no blown fuses, I reran the three original dash grounds to a spot on the frame I cleaned the frame paint off but still no luck.

Edit: I think I'm being an idiot and the switch might be turned off since I had it off before reinstalling it...ill check in an hour or so when i get home lll

 

keep at it. electrical is the most frustrating to troubleshoot. glad it was something easy like a blown fuse and not your Acc Relay in the Inst. Cluster. those suck

 

Thanks ty I got it all figured out last night. For the vents...I left the switch off lol and the radio has a burnt ground pin on the truck side of the harness. I ordered a new haarness and will have it in tomorrow.

Today I get my bit writer to program my remote start then I can start final assembly!

 

This is just to show you guys the ground pin on the radio harness. I will have my new one in tomorrow so i can cut the old part off and install the good one again.


Also here is my console put together minus the lid which i may paint with SEM for now until i can get a matching black leather cover when i reupolster the seats. I love the way it came out!

 

Ok guys i seriously need help on this one then i can finish the dash install and wrap everything up! I got the bitwriter for my viper remote start/alarm and now when i try to use the remote start it cranks but wont actually start. I can start the truck via the key and i tried using the virtual tach but had no luck either. I used a wire near the 4 wires that go through the firewall and apparently it did not provide the right signal because i disconnected the wire and it gave off the same error "Low Tach Signal!". I went as far as running the wire through the firewall and directly to one of the coils and still same issue...where can i get a proper tach signal from!?!?!? I need to get that then i can install my dash and drive it again!

BTW everyone says the tach wires are light green/white and mine are light green/lime green that i am trying to use idk if it's the same wire or not.

EDIT: After do ing some research on my computer instead of my phone i may need to get a ford tach converter to make the signal stronger P/N: 5C3Z-17C304-AA, I may try it since the starter keeps telling me its a tach signal issue so what the hell.

In light of this i will be going forward with my install tomorrow and simply extending the wires i need such as the 4 aux wires from the remote starter that i will eventually hook into my folding mirrors and other things and the tach signal to make life easier later on when i get the converter. I am not super worried about the starter because i know the wires are correct now and I dont not really plan to use the truck in the winter to keep the rust away which is when i heavily use the starter.

Tomorrow i will do the following:
- Remove Frame
- Install plastic Dash
- Undercoat new Vent Ducts
- Paint kick panels and scuff paltes
- Trim carpet on the sides where the scuff plates install.
- Solder all RS connections
- tie the audio converter ti the steering column (3M velcro)
- Finalize all wiring
- Run power/ground for USB Hub
- Run power ground for console 12v Outlets
- Hook up heated mirror switch
- Hook up switch Illumination


Should be done by Saturday! at least enough to move her and take her for a spin lol, over the weekend I'll wrap up the steering wheel and any other outstanding parts.

 

Ok here we go lol, Between Saturday and Sunday I got basically the whole thing done and i need to do some minor tweaks to finish the inside.

I wrapped up all the remote wiring.


I pulled the frame in and out about 4 times to line up wires etc to make sure it was all set and to check my A/C boxes which function very well and here it is with the bare plastic frame on ready to be installed.


Miles saw some of these pics on Facebook lol but here is the dash at about noon on Saturday before i had to stop for my family party lol.




You guys will enjoy this, I was working on the radio so i was sitting in the truck bent over then i heard a loud bang and looked up to see my dog standing on the roof of the 95 staring at me lol. The tailgate was closed so he jumped a good 4-5 feet into the back then climbed onto the roof lol.


I looked down then up and he was even closer lol


Radio is in and working, so are both Amp's


EDGE pod is and the CTS is working nicely again


And lastly the cluster is working and functioning.



I also wired up my power fold option for my mirrors which i have a video of but i can't get it to upload right now.

One issue that just happened yesturday though is the parking lights will not illuminate through my switch but the remote start can turn them on still and blinkers/brake lights function normally, I think the wire may have broken between the switch and remote start since i used a T-tap and never soldered that wire but i will check later today on that unless there is a fuse of some sort that would cause that to happen. My headlights still come on but that's it. Also that is with the old switch so it maybe that the switch is burnt out.

 

Teaser pic! I'll have it done in a few days if everything goes according to plan!

 

The anticipation builds...

 

Looks great! I just read the last two months of updates and can't wait to see the final product.