I have been watching here for quite some time and LOVE the pics and advise on these trucks. I grew up loving old cars and pickups in the 80's and early 90's and even owned a couple old Mopars. With that being said, I remember being 14 and seeing a local guy that owned a 1954 Ford F100 with a Flatbed W/oak rails. Mag rims and a snappy sounding exhaust, he would drive buy once a day and all the guys would just drool. (especially me)
About a year ago I was given a opportunity to purchase a '53 and I took it. I probably paid too much but it's mine now and I will get it done the way I want it. Someone in the past put a '79 Ford 400m in it and did a shotty job at that. So, I took it out and am planning on boxing the frame, Mustang II front end, rebuilt engine (sorry I'm a Chevy guy) and a nice set of rims.

I have one questions though.... Can someone get me some pics. of the frame rails before and after boxing. I think when they put the 400 in this oldie they may have bent the top of the rail. Let me know what you think
Thanks,
Tom

 

Hey. Thanks for sharing your story. Welcome to our world. I sure would like to see more of your truck. Please keep us updated with your project with lots and lots of pictures. I hope the below helps.

 

PERFECT!!! that is exactly what I was looking for! Now I know what my rails should look like. I will post a few more of what the truck looks like now. Like a DUMMY I didn't take any of when I got it. What I will say is the paint job is bad. It was the first paint job the guy did that I bought it from and he had no prior bondo experience. The body looks like a series of waves. The metal is not that bad just needs to be done correctly and it should look good.

 

Nice looking truck to start with. Welcome to......THE DARK SIDE!
Look forward to seeing your progress.

 

Welcome, welcome, welcome. You made me smile, I had forgotten that my truck came with a pair of vice grips for a door handle and a cloudy Plexiglas drivers window. Its good to have you as part of the FTE family.

 

Welcome to the madness that is old fat fendered Ford trucks

 

Welcome! A large adjustable wrench slipped onto the frame rail should straighten it in short order. Just work it slowly, don't try to get it all out with one bend. If you don't have or want to invest in that large a wrench, cut an 1/8" wide slot about 2" deep into the end of a 1/2" or wider piece of bar stock to use as a bending lever. If you must use a hammer and dolly be sure to use a hammer with a large face (like a 2# hand maul with the corners of the face sanded smooth and rounded and don't hammer directly on the dolly or you'll stretch the metal. TAP DON'T POUND the metal flat. If you can see the imprint of the hammer face you are stretching the metal. You just want to MOVE the metal, not thin it. A hammer can be a wonderful and high precision tool to move metal, but can do much damage quickly if used improperly. Remember you are GENTLY moving the metal a small amount at a time with many small taps, you are NOT driving nails or trying to BEAT it into submission! Good luck!

 

Welcome to the madness,lots of info here

 

Welcome to the madness. Remember, enjoy the journey because very few of us actually ever finish our trucks. Mine is SBC powered and someday it will enjoy a matching set of wheels, maybe something like you already have.

 

I am planning on heating the frame up with a torch and bending it back with my 24" adjustable 9/16". (I love HTF) Do you think the frame is bent up also?

 

DON'T heat the frame! You will likely warp it to a pretzel! The 1/8" steel will bend quite easily cold. What is a 24" adjustable 9/16" and HTF? The only way to tell if the frame is bent is with careful jigging and measuring or putting it on a frame table.

 

This is a 24" adjustable 9/16"....
and HTF is Harbor Tool and Freight.

Your right! I wasn't thinking metal tension. Using a torch would make things all kind of bad. I'll just take small steps to bring her back to square with-out the torch! I do have a buddy that has a frame table that if I need to use is there to use.

 

Yes, that 24" adjustable is the perfect tool for straightening the kink in upper flange, just go slowly, don't try to straighten it all in one pass. Since the lower flange and vertical web doesn't show any distress, it's likely the frame isn't bent. The Ford ladder frame was designed to be quite flexible, so you don't see many bent ones.

 

I too had to use a 24" precision frame straightener after the PO made motor mounts that were only resting on the top of the frame. Worked slowly and it straightened out fine.

 

I will get some pics but... I took my time and I got one side done in about 15 minutes. I put the truck up on jack stands and started on one end and moved about 2 inches at a time just lite pulls at a time and worked back and forth. It look like it will came back good. Now I need to get some pieces made for the boxing. ???? Should I make them out of 1/8" sheet metal or buy the premade pieces for $80?