I'm fixing myself also; could be the bolts only need tightened. (I've seen a few reports of loose bolts which totally makes sense on the '11 models!)

That said, I'm ordering the gasket (FORD PARTS ONLINE) and then trying the torqueing the bolts first.

I think everyone with the leak should have their dealer diagnose the issue, that may prompt fmc to issue a tsb on this issue.

Waiting to hear from regional service mgr, but, not expecting anything other than lip service.

Ford's new motto: QUALITY IS JOB 3

jammer

 

Jermort keep us updated on the repair and take a few pics if you can..

 

How did I get charged $650 for this repair? That almost $500 in labor! Boy did I get taken advantage off by my dealer.

 

Lessee, $14 for gasket, $636 for 1.4 hrs labor, that's almost $455/hr for labor. They must have went to dinner on your dime! What happened to all the dependable, reputable dealers??? Hope you at least got a kiss from a cute service writer!

Sad story!

jammer

 

Better been awhole lot more than a Kiss.

 

I'm sure a majority of that cost was diagnosis, potentially die test, etc. They got by the manual to troubleshoot it....Do this first, then this, if that then do this, if not try this, etc. It's one of the reasons I try to do my own repairs if I have time and the slow leak I have has only left an annoying small spot on my garage mat so now I will replace the gasket myself. The annoyance to me is the mess it left on the front of the engine and below and trailing back under the truck because I put so many miles on.

Even if just the bolts are loose, I plan on pulling it off and replacing the gasket - may as well do it while I have the fan off and taken apart. Pretty hard to get in there to just tighten the bolts without doing this first, although I will check and see if they are accessible.

 

Wildwest how hard is it to get the fan off? From what I can see you can maybe only get to two of the bolts on the pump without removing anything...

 

Haven't tried this one yet, but assuming I have the right tools (Hopefully I do- I have the fan clutch nut wrench, not sure of the other one). The upper plastic fan shroud has to come off and then just remove the fan itself. Shouldn't be too difficult. I know I have one of these wrenches shown.


1.Remove the upper cooling fan shroud. For additional information, refer to Cooling Fan Shroud - Upper See: Fan Shroud\Service and Repair\Cooling Fan Shroud - Upper.
2.Disconnect the cooling fan clutch electrical connector.
3.Remove the cooling fan clutch electrical connector bracket bolt.
•To install, tighten to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
4.Using the Wrench and the Fan Clutch Nut Wrench, remove the cooling fan.
•To install, tighten to 133 Nm (98 lb-ft).
5.If servicing the cooling fan or the cooling fan clutch, remove the four nuts and separate the cooling fan from the cooling fan clutch.
•To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in)
6.To install, reverse the removal procedure.

 

Getting to the fan is the pain. Have to remove the intake, degas bottle and upper fan shroud first. Decided to go get a new belt before starting this and do that at the same time. This is next weekend's job.

Secondary Cooling Degas Bottle
Removal and Installation

1.Drain the powertrain secondary cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding See: Service and Repair\Engine Cooling - Powertrain Secondary Cooling\Powertrain Secondary Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding.
2.Remove the air cleaner outlet pipe and the air cleaner cover. For additional information, refer to Intake Air Distribution and Filtering See: Engine\Air Cleaner Housing\Diagrams.
3.Release the clamp and disconnect the EGR cooler-to-degas bottle hose from the degas bottle.
4.Release the clamp and disconnect the Charge Air Cooler (CAC) and fuel cooler-to-degas bottle hose from the degas bottle.
5.Release the clamp and disconnect the degas bottle-to-radiator hose from the degas bottle.
6.Release the clamp and disconnect the degas bottle-to-coolant pump hose from the degas bottle.
7.Remove the 2 degas bottle bolts and position the degas bottle to access the transmission fluid cooler-to-degas bottle hose.
•To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
8.Squeeze the tabs to disconnect the transmission fluid cooler-to-degas bottle hose from the degas bottle and remove the degas bottle.
9.To install, reverse the removal procedure.


Cooling Fan Shroud - Upper
Removal and Installation

1.Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and the air cleaner cover. For additional information, refer to Intake Air Distribution and Filtering See: Engine\Air Cleaner Housing\Diagrams.
2.Remove the 2 bolts and position the secondary cooling system degas bottle aside.
•To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
3.Detach the secondary radiator-to-EGR cooler hose retainer from the upper fan shroud.
4.Detach the 2 horn wiring harness retainers from the upper fan shroud.
5.Detach the primary radiator overflow hose retainer and position the primary radiator overflow hose aside.
6.Remove the bolt and position the power steering fluid reservoir aside.
•To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
7.Detach the 2 Charge Air Cooler Temperature (CACT) sensor wiring harness retainers and position the CACT sensor wiring harness aside.
8.Detach the fuel cooler-to-degas bottle hose retainer and position the fuel cooler-to-degas bottle hose aside.
9.Remove the 5 bolts and the upper cooling fan shroud.
•To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
10.To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Then remove the fan as indicated in previous post, then you have to remove the cooling fan drive assembly.

Cooling Fan Drive Assembly - 6.7L Diesel
Removal and Installation

1.Remove the cooling fan. For additional information, refer to Engine Cooling - Diesel Engine See: Cooling System\Fan Blade\Service and Repair\Cooling Fan.
2.Rotate the accessory belt tensioner clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt.
3.Remove the 4 bolts and the cooling fan drive assembly.
•To install, tighten to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
4.NOTE: For additional information, refer to Accessory Drive See: Description and Operation in the Description and Operation information for correct drive belt routing.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Now you have access to the brake vacuum pump!!! This is the easy part!

I don't think it's going to only take 1 hour by the time I remove the upper fan shroud, then fan, then fan drive assembly just to get to the brake vacuum pump so will make sure I start in the morning!! The 0.4 hours is just for the brake vacuum pump removal and reinstall that part.

I will take pictures as I go!! This isn't a difficult repair but it does require a fair bit of dismantling to get access to it which always takes time.

 

See my post above, now you can see why the labour charge was that high!! I could easily see 4 hours labour charge for this repair, if not 5.

 

yeah...with the cab forward designs now everything is crammed in there.

 

Thanks for the update Wildwest...

 

Looks like FMC and my local dealer are finally on the same page! WOW!

After going around in circles with my dealer and FMC's CSM for quite a while now, the leaky gasket will be repaired for a $50 deductible. I'm good with that!

Kudos to Crystal @ FordService for keeping the communication lines open and aiding in getting this resolved.

Just shouldn't be this Hard!!

My advice to everyone with this issue: make sure that you get the repair authorized by FMC before you have the work done. If you pay first, you'll probably not see a refund!

Truck should be fixed next week.

jammer

 

So, I completed the repair today. Here are the pics. Keep in mind, I am deleted and have an S&B Intake so this will look a little different. Follow the directions I posted previous on this repair in detail and it works well. Took about 4 1/2 hours - could now do it in about 3 after doing it once.

I found 3 out of the 4 bolts holding the brake vacuum pump were not tight - explains the leak!! But it's worthwhile changing the gasket when you get this far!

Step 1: Remove the intake
Step 2: Drain the secondary coolant
Step 3: Remove secondary coolant degas bottle
Step 4: Remove upper fan shroud
Step 5: Remove fan (took a little longer because I didn't have right tool)
Step 6: Remove fan drive assembly
Now you have access to the brake vacuum pump
Step 7: Remove brake vacuum pump and replace gasket

Reinstall everything - this part always goes faster and fortunately - no parts left over. I also took this opportunity to replace my belt which was the original and in not too bad shape but I have 103,000 miles on my truck.

 

And a few more. I use the Motorcraft metal prep for removing the gasket material and cleaning the metal surfaces before attaching the gasket. That stuff works great.