54 Tex, when you modified the bracket to the tranny, did you make a rigid connection or flexible connection to the end of the clutch shaft? Did you use the stock "U" bracket?

 

Haven't figured out how to double quote.

Response to the earlier comments…

"Looking at the first photo posted by 54 Texas, the U bracket does not seem to add any real "support" to the end of the clutch shaft.”

I do not think you need to support the clutch shaft on its right side (looking forward). The clutch shaft is very solid and supported by the clutch/master cylinder housing/bracket mounted to the frame. Also, the U Bracket’s purpose is to pull the rod that is connected to the clutch fork to disengage the clutch. It also has the spring that pulls U Bracket back so that your clutch pedal stays up. The bracket that connects to the transmission to the right of the U Bracket is just to hold the U Bracket level.

"54 Tex, when you modified the bracket to the tranny, did you make a rigid connection or flexible connection to the end of the clutch shaft? Did you use the stock "U" bracket?"

Flexible. I added a spring to each side for the engine/trans movement. These springs also hold the clutch shaft in place. Yes, stock.

Also, the stuff about the leather washer. I had no idea that was in the mix. I have two big washers and will keep an eye on those for excessive wear. With that I have two nuts (easy!) on the back side (watch it!) of the transmission bracket so that I can keep the washers a bit loose.

Stephen

 

On the stock application, the "U" bracket is pretty unstable and not square with the tranny. In your modification, it appears you have "squared" up the "U" bracket to eliminate a lot of the wobble. I think the leather washer was to minimize a lot of the play caused by the "U" bolt not being square. Comparing the photos in this post, you can see how much more square your fabrication is and how much play has been eliminated by the stock assembley. Im wondering about a similar fabrication, but without the right side of the U bracket being attached to the tranny. Your fabrication has the transmission mounted to the frame with the only place allowed for movement between the frame rail and the transmission is the play where the lever on the end of the clutch shaft fits over the spring. Do you ever notice a thump or knock with you step on it and torque the tranny and engine? If not, you may have enough play in the hook up to be fine. A leather washer on the right side of the U bracket and your fabricated mount should give you a little more flex in the connection if needed. Awesome pictures by the way!

 

I thought really hard about the design of this clutch. Mainly because I wanted to use as much of the existing original design/parts as I could. I kept a quote that I read here in FTE in mind..."Think twice before second quessing Ford Engineers". This has helped me in my designs. The "U Bracket" is actually called the "Equalizer". The Equilizer is just that, it equalizes the force you are putting on the brackets down there considering the amount of times you are using the clutch. On the left side of the equalizer you have the lever and on the right side the pulling on the clutch fork. I am interested in your design but I was learry to try it myself. Plus I needed something at the distance of the right side of the equalizer to connect the clutch fork rod. I was fortunate to have the toploader with the bolts to attach my fab bracket. If you are using a C4 or AOD I would guess a little more engineering would be needed. Mine seemed to be simple but I will never call my designs finished. That is what I like the most, the desigining. I have only driven my truck about 4 miles around my neighborhood and have not heard/felt any knocks/thumps that seem to be clutch related (I have lit the tires several times). If I do I will look at it during the investigation. Thanks.

 

With an automatic you don't use the long clutch shaft, you replace it with one just long enough to handle the brake pedal. It doesn't have the equalizer or need a connection with the transmission.

I'm thinking about using a T-5 in the future, and I've been thinking about the bracket between the equalizer and transmission. I like your set-up.

 

I agree about thinking twice before out guessing ford engineers. It more often gets me in trouble than not. When went back and re read your posts, I picked up the nut on the back of the bolt that allows the washers to be loose for additional slack. I think you have a pretty good fabrication going there. If you have not heard any knocking and the bolt is not bent, lighting up the tires should be a pretty good test for problems. My idea is just thinking out loud with the members. I have not tried it and most likely wont. In this truck (F-250), I have the stock transmission and brakes. In my other two F-100's I have the AOD. One with a 351 and another with a 292. Those both have brake mods as well. Im trying to keep my 250 close to stock.

 

See there, I totally goofed that statement. I am Simple Minded today.

 

I mainly used the nuts not so much for slack but rather so it wasn't so hard to push the clutch or wear parts (washes/the big bolt). If you have the stock transmission I highly recommend using the original set up. If it is a matter of not having the part that connects to the trans I have an extra that you may have. Let me know.

 

BTW-I read through your story and WOW/Awesome/Gross (U know)!

 

Im good to go. I have the stock set up U bracket and a replacement...and I think I will go with stock just cause its worked all these years is a good reason to stay with it. I still think they come up with it day after the Christmas Party. Been there done that.

 

Stephen, how is this assembley holding up for you? I think the stock set up only has one spring. Im having an issue with the clutch pedal arm touching or rubbing on the side of the front rear spring mount when deprressed. It looks like a thick washer on the shaft before putting thru the frame would be enough to provide adequate clearance. My clutch pedal does not appear to be bent. I did, however, have to remove the rivets on the spring mount and replace with bolts. That may have reduced the clearance.

 

I just went out and took a picture. Thanks for reminding me to climb under the truck and see if my hardware is still tight. Everything looks good so far however, it has only been around the block over the last year. I have not had any issues with the clutch linkage while driving. The pedal is smooth and does not seem to be hitting/rubbing anything. I have a little slack on the transmission side of the U joint as you can see in the picture.

I am currently doing body work.

 

I also kept henry's design by fabing up a bracket so I could use the original shoulder bolt on the trans. side of the u-bracket.
With the massive fuller 6sp there was just enough room to use the u-bracket.

the first picture show's the shoulder bolt on the side of the aux. trans shifter bracket .. just forward of the shifter.

second picture is looking up from below the truck. linkage was made from stuff I had on hand.

 

Awesome! Did you have any issues with the side clutch pedal arm scraping the bolts and rear spring hanger when you depress the clutch? Mine rubs. I lost part of the clearance going from stock rivets to hex headed bolts. Its still too close and I can not figure out why its rubbing. It looks like a 3/8 inch spacer on the shaft would keep it from scraping, but then I dont know how that would affect the rest of the hardware on the shaft on the other side of the frame rail. Surely its not that little spring on the end of the shaft that forces the clutch pedal to clear the spring hanger.

Your truck is looking good. Are you staying with it? I wait all summer to work on mine, then I get busy gardening and fishing and dont get anything done on the truck. lol.

 

No problem with the clutch arm but I did have to bend the brake arm a little to clear the Cummins motor mounts.
I have been driving the truck with the Cummins for 6yrs now. The outside of the truck still shows its 57 yrs on the road.