The original AM radio in my 66 F100 did not work. I bought a replacement from a 64. On install I noticed that the gears do not line up for the dial indicator/needle movement.

On my 66 radio I could pull on the tuning shaft and pull it completely out of the radio. Does anyone know if it is common for the tuning shaft to pull out - I dont want to pull on the shaft of the 64 radio for fear of damage...

If it does pull out I will swap the shaft from the 66 radio to the 64 radio.

Thanks for any insight...

 

First and Foremost, welcome to FTE!! On my 65 there's the volume control (off/on) **** remains attached to the radio; the dial indicator (tuner) remains attached to the face plate by a 'C' clip.

If the station selector works on the 66 radio you can swap the face plates. On my 65 radio, with the face plate removed, the tuner arm is not a tight fit, it's loose and you may be able to get the gears to mesh but do not force it, you can remove the C clip and the tuner arm will come out but it's important to pay attention to the order the spring washer, spacer, gears, etc. are on the tuner arm!!. I have made the mistake of doing so w/out paying attention and it took awhile to come up with the correct order for the tuner to work. When the tuner arm is in position to insert into the radio housing the gears should be aligned, and tight fitting. Posting couple pic's may find helpful??? Would be interested in outcome!!

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_0018.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_0017.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_0016.jpg

 

Thanks Dave.

I will attempt to pull the tuner shaft out of the radoi and reeplace it with the one from the original radio, The original radio has the gear "soldered" to the shaft, so not washers/springs to worry about.

When the gear on the new radio did not line up with the dial in the new installation, I removed the c clip and you are right - I am not sure how the washers/springs fgo together any more....

 

If the tuner on the 66 face plate works not sure why can't just swap?

I would probably work with the tuner assembly where the gear is not soldered to the shaft. Threre are a couple of brass washers, and 3-4 spring washers and it was a matter of determining which combination works. The objects is to place tension on the gear so it does not rotate until it reaches the end of the dial selection thus not damaging the mechanism. The difficult part was trying to apply pressure on the combination of flat and spring washers while installing the 'c' clip. There are 2 grooves on the tuner shaft, the groove closest to the gear on the shaft is for the 'C' that secures the washers, there should be noticeable tension on the gear so it does not freely rotate. The other groove is for the 'C' clip that secures the shaft to the face plate thus allowing the gears meshed. If the shaft with gear is difficult to install, suggest loosening the 2 screws on the back of the face plate (as shown in pic) and shift slightly to allow the gears to mesh, should not need to remove the screws.

Don't believe all tuner assemblies are the same, so what's going to determine on the combination of flat and spring washers is you want it tight yet have enough space to install the 'C' clip. Looking at spare tuner shaft assembly I had rolling around in a box, it appears there's a spring washer against the gear followed by a brass washer and then a couple of spring washers which should be installed opposite of each other, followed by another brass washer. If there's a spring washer remaining you can try and see if it can be installed and still have room for the 'C' clip. Installing the 'C' clip securing the shaft to the face place should not be a problem and probably need to install to determine if it works???

 

AM radio: 1961/63 have tubes, 1964/77's have transistors.

Applications: 1961/66 F100/1000 / 1961/71 C Series Tilt Cabs / 1963/69 N/NT/T500/1000 / 1966/77 Bronco / 1967/69 F800/1000.