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Old 09-19-2013, 08:59 AM
johnsonjf johnsonjf is offline
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Oil in CAC


Good Morning,

Yesterday afternoon I replaced the o-ring on my fuel regulator plate, it wasleaking. While disassembling the parts to gain access to the four bolts Inoticed some oil in the cold air crossover. There was no oil in the air filter box butthere was some residue between the turbo and the crankcase breather. I have not seen any smoke out of the exhaust,not even after it has been sitting for a few days. While running there is no visible smoke. Is this residue normal? I did wipe out the parts before I replacedthem.

Thanks,
Jeff

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Old 09-19-2013, 09:10 AM
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Crankcase tube puts the oil in there. Common issue on these motors.

The CAC boots can, over time, deteriorate from the oil also.

Some members here have re-routed the CCV.

Do a search on "CCV Mod"
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amdriven2liv View Post
The CAC boots can, over time, deteriorate from the oil also.

Some members here have re-routed the CCV.
That situation of the oil deteriorating the factory CAC boots as Sean mentions, can also be helped by replacing them with a better set, sold by Riff Raff Diesel who is a sponsor on here.
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Last edited by Piolet; 09-19-2013 at 09:16 AM. Reason: Better sentence
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:07 AM
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Oil also accumulates in the CAC itself and its recommended that you remove and clean it out after a couple hundred k miles. Its rare but it has happened where enough oil accumulated in the CAC and it was sucked into the intake causing a runaway. I cleaned mine out at 165k miles and it had maybe 1/4 cup or maybe less. Certainly not enough to cause a problem but I wouldnt have known if I didnt remove it.
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:52 PM
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The next time you change the oil watch the quantity. There's a lot going around about "18 quarts dry capacity, 15 quarts wet" etc that comes out of some of the Ford literature, but it's realistically more like 13-14 quarts to hit the full mark on the dipstick. The dipstick is kind of wedged through the plate on the bottom of the block and will read "wet/full" at anything over 13.5 quarts in my truck, I only found that out by dumping in 12qts in then topping up in .5qt intervals. This significantly reduced oil in my CAC lines, I put in RiffRaff boots (VERY HIGHLY recommend to replace factory boots) two oil changes ago and they're almost dry using 13.5 quarts.

One of the techs (cheezit?) says he's seen runaways, but it was something stupid like 25+ quarts in the crankcase between the oil and fuel mixed together down there to feed the self fueling. You can do the CCV reroute but I personally think it's a solution in search of a real problem, unless you like pristine CAC boots.
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:54 PM
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Did you give it time to settle between .5 Qt additions?

In my case I would still have to pick up the 4 one gallon jugs
till the one time when I have a large enough fresh oil leftover form
previous changes.

If one were to only add 14 Qt then you could do a buy 4 gallon and the next time
buy 3 gallon and then repeat.

But on a more important issue. You would then be less likely
to be having the rod ends hitting the oil in the pan and making
spray. It's that spray that is venting out the vent system what ever
the cause.

Sean
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:59 PM
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I dunno about how long I waited, it was really hot so probably 15 mins +/- a beer in between filings

13.5 quarts read as the middle on the dipstick the two or three times I bothered to check in the week after I did it. When I drained it it fit into a 5 gal bucket and the UOA said fuel dilution was fine. Meaning no where near "run away" level, and no negatives I could see on the UOA. Fumoto drain is nice, I guess I could drain a few quarts and check again... but it's still really hot here.

EDIT: side note about extra oil. Does it go bad if you open the bottle up and let it sit? I'v honestly never considered how old a bottle is when I use it. When I have extra from my truck I toss the half quart of 5W40 into my Hyundai with 3 quarts of 5W20 synth to fill it up, and usually those three quarts are pieced together from the last 5W20 oil changes in my Jeep and brothers F150. Sometimes I guess the oil is 6-ish months old in an opened then resealed bottle. Haven't had problems yet, just passed 75k on an '09 Hyundai.
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:10 PM
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I think oil could sit for years so long at it has a top on.
Dust would be the only thing I could think of. Unlike
brake fluid that is hydroscopic.

Sean
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Old 09-20-2013, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yahiko View Post
Did you give it time to settle between .5 Qt additions?

In my case I would still have to pick up the 4 one gallon jugs
till the one time when I have a large enough fresh oil leftover form
previous changes.

If one were to only add 14 Qt then you could do a buy 4 gallon and the next time
buy 3 gallon and then
repeat.

But on a more important issue. You would then be less likely
to be having the rod ends hitting the oil in the pan and making
spray. It's that spray that is venting out the vent system what ever
the cause.

Sean
This is what I have been doing for a while. It also leaves the oil a little lower on the stick so it is easier to catch any increase of oil level. Which means getting fuel in the crankcase, or "making oil".
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amdriven2liv View Post
This is what I have been doing for a while. It also leaves the oil a little lower on the stick so it is easier to catch any increase of oil level. Which means getting fuel in the crankcase, or "making oil".
I've been doing it for years myself. 13.5 to get to the operating range on the dipstick although it's different now with the bulletproof. One thing I saw on an oil change over the weekend is that some folks do NOT open the filter housing FIRST to allow it to drain, which leaves another quart or so of dirty oil in the engine. I was given that lesson on my 03 the first day I bought it.
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:04 AM
 
 
 
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