If you mean the oil drain valve I use nothing but the Quik Changer brand mentioned before---used the same one on my trans pan.

The only real challenge installing Hellwig is their heft, especially if you're doing it by yourself. For the most part its nothing but bolting stuff together, Hellwig provides everything including good installation instructions.

The only issue I had was the left side rear frame-to-bar link. You'll have to move a few fuel-related hard lines out of the way in order to bolt the link to that side of the frame. Right side is a piece of cake since its completely open. Other than that its an easy DIY project, both mine done in the driveway.

If the crack is in the portion that contains the filter that's not an immediate concern IF it still allows a snug fit of the filter to the mounted intake portion---the one bolted to the cowl and containing the incoming air sensor. eBay would be good for new aftermarket or use OEM, maybe new OEM too? I'd check with the dealer too but it might be part of an assembly only through them and unnecessarily more expensive than the used or aftermarket route.

If you have a local U Pull It or similar DIY salvage yard you might find one laying in an engine bay that's been tossed aside, not needed by someone else. If nothing at least you've spent some quality time in a junk yard---always a good time!

I get my NAPA stuff because its about the same price for me as the online offerings for the same brands. They're also literally on my way (one right hand turn into their lot!) which is one reason I shop there. I might enjoy a better discount than a walk-in customer so finding the best brands at the best price (shipping factored in to end cost/unit) there's not a thing wrong with that.

I'm not a huge customer volume-wise but try to establish a good working relationship with local vendors---that's just good business, assuming it doesn't come at too high a premium in my final costs of course.

All this is a learning process, we benefit from sharing our experiences-----I hope?!?!

 

Sorry, what I meant was, since you are drilling the hole yourself in the tranny pan, did you just go with the largest diameter Quik Changer to get the most flow? Or do you have to abide by their application guide to choose the correct one?

 

JWA said in an earlier post that the flow rate is the same for all of them, meaning that the drain hole is the same. Therefore, I might be inclined to get either the one that takes the smallest drilled hole or one that has the most common threads to make it easier to get a locknut for the inside of the pan.

George

 

Thanks George. I must have missed that.

 

Just a bit more on the Quick Changers.........

Ford uses a 14mm x 1.5 thread for the oil pan so I ordered another of those, found suitable hex nuts on eBay. Drilled the hole as shown, cleaned all parts first with brake cleaner than acetone to completely degrease it all. IIRC I used either LocTite #242 (blue) thread locker to keep it from ever backing out.

Photos of both drain connections installed:





Since Quick Changers are all the same outside of an oil/fluid pan just one drain connection and hose is required.

There is another version of this idea made by Fumoto and that's a nice piece too. For a lot of reasons I prefer the Quick Changers, just a matter of what we like best I suppose.

 

Hi JWA,

Just saw your post. Will have to take a look to see how my pan looks like. Just got done putting in the rear sway bar at a friend's house.

Hopefully I did it right.









The bad part is, while it was on the ramps, it was a sunny day here so I got some sunlight to see how the underside looks. Found some lines that have rusted through. Not sure what they are?

 

Hard to ID location of rusted out line from close ups, but looks like rear heater lines?

On Chateau there are 4 steel tubes that run length of driver side frame; 2 for hot coolant to rear heater & 2 for refrigerant to rear AC. They are notorious for rusting out & being a PITA to replace.

 

ooohhhh that is a pretty and shinny bumper you have there

 

Club Wagon, I'll try to take some pics or video from far away and then close up.

Thats a good angle since it has a dent in the middle from the PO.

 

Any trans or oil pan can be fitted with the Quick Changers if you choose to go that route.

Looks like your Hellwig is correct---any problems with the front links to the frame? Those have frustrated me a few times. You should notice a huge improvement in handling now.

Remember to check all attachment fasteners after a few hundred miles, front and rear----they might become a bit loose.

While you're back underneath take some photos of the rocker panels---not quite as close as your rusted lines---lets see what you're potentially facing there. Hoping its nothing much---rest of van looks in decent shape over all.

 

No need.

IF: "On Chateau there are 4 steel tubes that run length of driver side frame; 2 for hot coolant to rear heater & 2 for refrigerant to rear AC. They are notorious for rusting out & being a PITA to replace" - didn't hit the mark, you can simply state the point of view of the close ups to provide necessary reference.

 

I believe they are. Just wanted to shoot a video to confirm. With the money savings that I'm trying to do on the sway bar installs myself, might just have the shop do the line replacement.

 

Got the shocks in yesterday, might try to take a stab at that and the front sway bar if my friend is free.

- JWA, I think you gave some tips on the install. Although I haven't broken out the boxes, is the mess up factor low? I recall some shocks have alot of washers and stuff and just dont want to mess up the order or location they should be in. And someone asked me if they are valved for my vehicle already?

- Took a look at how the front sway bar install is going to go. Am I right in that its only for bolts and the stock one comes out? Can't be that easy, could it?

- And I wanted to change the fuel filter today. No where to be seen in the engine bay. Looked underneath as well. Hidden somewhere?

 

Sorry to see you struggling with basics. Suggest you do yourself a favor & pick up a Chilton or Haynes repair manual, or search eBay for a deal on a FORD Service Manual. IMO, the best $20-$45 you'll ever spend on an old FORD Truck.

Fuel filters are usually near the tank, in plain sight, if you know where to look & what to look for. On Econoline it's usually tucked inside frame rail just ahead of tank.

Am familiar w/the Quick Connectors on FORD gas lines, procedure required to release fuel rest pressure & special tools needed to R&R them. But you got diesel right, so may be all different?

Check this thread out before trying to tackle shocks:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nt-broken.html

 

Thanks Club Wagon. Have a saved search the last couple of weeks for a deal on the ford factory service manuals but no good deals yet. Not specifically for econolines, but ive read on other model vehicles that the chilton/haynes were not correct on certain items so I've been holding off on getting those.

Thanks for the link!