Been off for a while. Starting to get back on it. Gonna rebuild the 4.9 with forged pistons and a turbo. Plan on 10 to 15psi boost, aftermarket ecu, custom turbo header when I finally get a tig welder! Plan on sending the head in for bigger valves and a port/polish. Gonna be Intercooled. Want to do a solid axle swap with leafs and a 9 inch in rear after I recover from the turbo. Want at least 200hp and 400 ft-lb of torque at 2500 rpm. Wish me luck!

 

Nice looking truck, good luck on your lofty goals for power!

 

Keep us updated, I'm excited to see the end result

 

Nice truck. Are you on the Fordsix forum? Lots of guys with good experience over there. IMO, the head work is the most important part as that's the most restrictive part of getting any horsepower from a 300. There was supposed to be an aftermarket cross flow head in the works a few years ago but I don't think it ever made it to production. Even with all the porting you can do and the turbo, 400 ft/lbs is going to be past the max that the head (at maximum ported out) has typically been pushed. Some old racers cut up 351 Cleveland heads and furnace brazed them to build an awesome flowing head for the 300.
I've also thought reversing the coolant flow on a 300 might help. If you look at the design, the #1 cylinder gets the cooled water slammed into it first. The old mid 80s Corvettes picked up 25 hp by reversing the flow to quench the head first.
I warmed up a 300 a few years ago and had it in a 92 F250 with a ZF. It was a fun project but realistically, the best it got for mileage was about on par with a 460 (12ish) and about half the snort.

 

You're not going to need a 9" for 200 HP. The 8.8 is more than strong enough.

 

Thanks guys! Im just estimating power levels but I think I can reach it. My 8.8 won't hold up I want a posi 9 inch to replace it. Going to lower the gears and I don't want to regear the 8.8 I'm building it primary for low end torque

 

Not on ford six but I have been peaking around there

 

We have an 8.8 in a Wrangler on 35" tires, behind a V8 and a transmission with a 7:1 1st gear. It puts enough torque to twist the chassis so much that the driver's side tire will come 10-12" off the ground if you floor it in 1st. The 8.8 axle has basically been the only part that hasn't broken yet.

Mustang guys regularly put 500+ HP through 8.8s, and the newer Mustangs, like the GT500 put 650 HP through an 8.8.

It will be just fine with your project. A bone stock 9" axle really isn't exactly anything spectacular.

 

I agree, an 8.8 might be a better axle than some stock 9 inch. I've seen plenty of them with very thin metal around the inner bearing on the pinion and they break there ruining everything.

 

Another vote to keep the 8.8. Nothing wrong with it and you won't be even close to needing a 9 inch. If you are planning a SAS swap, wait till that happens and get a rear axle geared the same as the front. Save your bucks for that turbo!

 

I'll probably keep the 8.8 then. I wanna run some kind of locker though I was hoping to get a 9 with one already in it. Anybody know a good locker that's streetable? Not much to show here some engine pics. Has blow by but not to bad gonna rebuild it.

 

There are many lockers and limited slips available for the 8.8

 

Just giving an update. Haven't done much to it other than rerouting the breather tube to the ground to keep oil out of my engine bay. The original piece that holds the tube in the box was gone.not the clip. . Ebay kits are super cheap for this engine. But I think I'm gonna. Rebuild it with a granny gear zf5. .still turboing but looking for the right size. I want torque not lag need good pistons anyway. Last ford 6 I rebuilt was a 223 in a 60 F100. But will do a low end torque cam and roller rockers. Probably change.my dual 2 inch straight pipes. I'm.a lil older know lol. People always ask if it's a diesel!

 

Hy35 is probably the best turbo for your build, considering the cost-to-effectiveness ratio, reliability, and quick spool.