Thanks Thomas, I wanted to put mine where you have yours, but I don't think it would have fit there either. I didn't want to put mine all the way on the other side of the engine either. I like the fact that this approach keeps the hoses short and the coolant away from all the electronics. I wish there were a cleaner way to go about this mod, but it's not a show truck, after all.

Makes sense to me.

I'll be interested to see how it does towing some weight. Before the IC I could touch 1200* with the chip turned up and the hammer down on a long pull, so it will be interesting to see what kind of difference this makes.

 

Nate, the drop in boost across the IC is due to the restriction of the IC. I would think you would want to move the map and gauge to the hot side. It should cause the pcm to call for more fuel just a little faster. That'll help build power a little faster, but might make it a little more smoky.


Aaron, flux core is good for high speed welding of heavy steel, like 1/4" or heavier.

 

Don't buy a combo machine. I very much wish I had not.after the fact I was whining to a friend at the welding supply shop here locally. He advised that had I discussed it with him first that he would have very strongly advised against it. The combo according to him is too much a comprimize on both that they are not nearly as good as separate dedicated machines. Story of my life.. Too much money in not enough equipment.

 

I agree with Phil. The MAP and your gauge port would be better in the hot side close to the turbo. It will give you a more accurate reading on the boost and make the MAP fuel better.

 

I would put the map on the hot side and boost on the cold that way you can see what boost the engine is actually getting

 

Thanks, Aaron. I'll keep that in mind if I ever get to the point where I'm ready to make a move.

Thanks for the advice guys, it sounds like I will be moving the MAP line at minimum. Any reason you guys can think of why I shouldn't drill and tap a port into the aluminum spyder?

 

That's better than messing that blue all up.

 

That's my thought as well. It's not easy getting those in and out without scratching them all up.

 

I think I may wrap some strategic spots like Andrew did. Not all of it but the places I think could get scratched easily. I sure hope I thought of everything before I get this stuff coated lol

 

Seems like there is always a few bugs to work out after all that work. Looks like you got it licked Nate. Aaron don't forget to put a port in for nos.

 

Yea..my e4od would love that.

 

It's been waaaay too long since I have had any progress to report in here. I've been busier than a one armed paper hanger these last few weeks.

I did get out to the shop last night to start fiddling with the truck again though. I've been using it for some small jobs and such on the weekends, so I haven't taken much time to really tear into it again until now. I had every intention of swapping out the fuel selector valve with another one someone was kind enough to send me. I have avoided flipping the switch for fear that the valve would get stuck (again) and leave me stranded somewhere. So, I pulled the truck into the shop and flipped the switch and..... it changed tanks. I flipped it several more times and it seems to be working perfectly now (the valve is anyway). If I jumper the fuel pump to run the whole time and flip the switch though, it still sounds like I am sucking air from the front tank. I don't have the slightest clue what the issue could be there, so I guess I am going to end up dropping the front tank again.

Instead of messing with that, I did a little work under the hood last night. I relocated the line for my boost gauge into the hot side of the spyder. I just drilled and tapped it for the 1/8" NPT fitting that came with the kit. No more needle flutter and the gauge seems much more responsive now. Maybe it's just my imagination, but the truck as a whole seems much more responsive. I don't know if I had something leaking a little before or what, but it runs good now. The roads were wet when I took it out for a ride and I broke the back end loose in third gear rolling into it pretty good. I'm pleased, to say the least.

The fuel tank issue has got to be the next thing to get done. I can't decide whether to just drop the tank now or to go fill it up and see how it acts with a full tank of fuel in it. The only thing I can think of is that my nice, shiny, brand new shower head must have broken or fallen off. When I flip the switch to change tanks, I can head air bubbles in the tank and then the fuel pressure starts to fluctuate. I hate to just yank the tank out again, but I hate even more to yank it when it is full of fuel.

 

It's always something. I am looking at changing my selector valve too. Ever since I replace the front tank and started using it again it has been a little odd. This last time I filled up both tanks and had it on my front tank. After making several trips with it the gauge would not drop off full. When I switched it to the rear it was half empty. I also think part of the return fuel is going back in to the front tank cause it is lea king out the top. Do you have a part number on those I have read a couple different ones. Like one it fits except for the wiring harness. Rather just put the one in that's sopost to be there.

 

I think I found my problem.



This was in the supply line between the front tank and selector valve. My guess is that it was getting into the valve enough that it was jamming up the works. I don't have any idea what it is, but it feels almost like cotton. At any rate, the valve seems a little glitchy, but it was working for the most part by the time I hung it up last night.

Here are a couple shots of the selector valve for you Gabe, and for reference in case anyone else needs it.






Fuel tanks, check! Now I think the camper is the next order of business.

 

Good to hear on the progress Nate!