Newbie 85 f250 frame off resto (Image Heavy)
#422
Your kidding me! I remember talking to the rep for SD truck springs on the phone trying to determine which spring to use on the swap and he said that the 3,486lbs ones were probably the ones. Guess that's what I get for listening to a guy who says "probably". So the only thing to do is to eat the cost of new springs? I don't think they'll take them back, two years ago and painted.
I didn't know about the 4" block. Never heard about that one. 4"? Really? How does that work?
I didn't know about the 4" block. Never heard about that one. 4"? Really? How does that work?
Leaf Springs and Suspension Parts by Auto and Truck Springs
Leaf Springs, Air Springs and Suspension Parts and Service
You may find someone who want to give the front of their F250 new life and your new springs would be perfect for that
As for the rear block.. A stock F250 is only 2" and f350 block is 4"
#423
All the threads I read on the swap and I never heard of these issues. I'm going to need all new u bolts, the blocks and new front springs. Makes me wonder if I got the correct rear leafs. Although it shouldn't be as big a deal as the front.
Well, I'll have to address that issue after I get the body primered and sitting on the frame. I'll have a better idea on how every thing sits then.
Well, I'll have to address that issue after I get the body primered and sitting on the frame. I'll have a better idea on how every thing sits then.
#424
All the threads I read on the swap and I never heard of these issues. I'm going to need all new u bolts, the blocks and new front springs. Makes me wonder if I got the correct rear leafs. Although it shouldn't be as big a deal as the front.
Well, I'll have to address that issue after I get the body primered and sitting on the frame. I'll have a better idea on how every thing sits then.
Well, I'll have to address that issue after I get the body primered and sitting on the frame. I'll have a better idea on how every thing sits then.
Yeah, I have done dozens of the dana 60 swaps. You can't run the TTB front springs.
Also the blocks are for the REAR. As for as which rear spring, that all have about the same ride height so that will not really matter
#425
Yeah, the 4" block replaces the 2" one that has the horns for the bump stop to hit, right? The ride hieght on the rear springs vary by 2 1/4". 7"-9 1/4", and I got the 9 1/4", so maybe you can get away with it? Or no?
#426
As for ride height? My clapped out 4 leafs sat just as high as my new 5 leafs
#428
#429
Any one been having trouble with the site the last couple days. I've been in the middle of typing posts and the screen freezes, then I have to exit out and close the window and retype the post. I'm not on the mobile site but am using my iPhone. It's only happening on FTE though, not other sites. Oh well.
I have just about every thing welded up underneath, just have to cut out a small section of the floor support and weld a new piece in.
I want to talk about the channel that runs along the rocker. Should there be weep holes in the side of the channel? I don't think they were there from the factory, but should I put some there. It looks like any water that gets in there is trapped.
I also was looking at this triangle shaped weep (I think it's a weep). Would it be worth puting one of these in the rear of the rocker panel also?
I have just about every thing welded up underneath, just have to cut out a small section of the floor support and weld a new piece in.
I want to talk about the channel that runs along the rocker. Should there be weep holes in the side of the channel? I don't think they were there from the factory, but should I put some there. It looks like any water that gets in there is trapped.
I also was looking at this triangle shaped weep (I think it's a weep). Would it be worth puting one of these in the rear of the rocker panel also?
#432
It's good practice! Lol, plus if I found another cab it would cost me $$$ in shipping. No cabs in NH. I debating looking for a new cab, but My father inlaw was chastising me about not wanting to fix the rust. I don't remember if I started the bodywork prior to buying the bed but I do remember the cab was already gone.
What do you think about the weep holes in the channel? The channel was gone on the drivers side and the pass side was completely folded over when I got the truck.
What do you think about the weep holes in the channel? The channel was gone on the drivers side and the pass side was completely folded over when I got the truck.
#433
The problem with adding holes, is that have to be big enough or dirt will clog them.
Next is if the holes are big enough, slash from the front tires will put water in them.
Don't get me wrong, I put 1/2" drain holes front and back of the rocker in my Bronco, but that is used with no not 90% of the time and I needed a place for water to drain. Not nearly as essential in a pickup
Next is if the holes are big enough, slash from the front tires will put water in them.
Don't get me wrong, I put 1/2" drain holes front and back of the rocker in my Bronco, but that is used with no not 90% of the time and I needed a place for water to drain. Not nearly as essential in a pickup
#435
I went back and read my posts from last night, I wasn't being very clear about the location of these proposed weeps. It was a long day.
I forgot to insert the pic of the traiangle weep.
It's located about 9"'from the front of the rocker. I was thinking of adding one of those to the rear of the rocker. Near the rubber grommet or even in place of it. I figure I could cut a piece of steel tube, conduit or something, at an angle and weld it there. Or fab a little piece like this. Warning crude drawing
I forgot to insert the pic of the traiangle weep.
It's located about 9"'from the front of the rocker. I was thinking of adding one of those to the rear of the rocker. Near the rubber grommet or even in place of it. I figure I could cut a piece of steel tube, conduit or something, at an angle and weld it there. Or fab a little piece like this. Warning crude drawing