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  #286  
Old 03-06-2014, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston Honda View Post
They're a little expensive through NAPA 20$ for each module connector. The coil connector is reasonably priced at 7$

Here is a site where they're cheaper, but the ignition coil connector comes in a ten pack. The other connectors are sold in singles. 7-8$

Ford Clips And Fasteners
You should also check out Pico Wiring and The Repair Connector Store...
Pico Wiring Accessories 2013 Catalog
Automotive Electrical Connector Pigtails, Terminals, Tools and More

The Motorcraft connector catalog also lists these.
You might be surprised how reasonable OEM connectors are.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/pu...torcatalog.pdf

If you have good numbers, I invite you to add them to the stickied thread.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...l#post14137827
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460, 4V 0-80457s, Edelbrock Intake, Saginaw PS Pump, BW 1356 4x4, 4.10 10.25", 130A 3G Alt., PMGR starter, ZF-5, - Lil' Red
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg117/donjamer/FTE%20Pics/blumax500-1-1.jpgFTE Fraternity of Blue Max
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  #287  
Old 03-06-2014, 10:15 AM
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A note on 'dwell'.
Dwell was a problem with points because they can only pass so much current without arcing to death, and can only open and close so fast due to the cam they ride on.

Transistors don't have that problem.
See that metal 'can' on a big heatsink of the Dodge ignition box?
How fast do you think that can switch?
It is on the order of Ás, that's millionths of a second.

Modern computers operate orders of magnitude faster than that '60's technology.
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'87 F-250
460, 4V 0-80457s, Edelbrock Intake, Saginaw PS Pump, BW 1356 4x4, 4.10 10.25", 130A 3G Alt., PMGR starter, ZF-5, - Lil' Red
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg117/donjamer/FTE%20Pics/blumax500-1-1.jpgFTE Fraternity of Blue Max
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  #288  
Old 03-06-2014, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
You should also check out Pico Wiring and The Repair Connector Store...
Pico Wiring Accessories 2013 Catalog
Automotive Electrical Connector Pigtails, Terminals, Tools and More

The Motorcraft connector catalog also lists these.
You might be surprised how reasonable OEM connectors are.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/pu...torcatalog.pdf

If you have good numbers, I invite you to add them to the stickied thread.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...l#post14137827
During my search last night I ran across all of those sites. I think Ford Clips And Fasteners have the best price on the module connectors.
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  #289  
Old 03-06-2014, 10:37 AM
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Yup. But with longer "dwell", which is really an outdated term, comes more heat. When the transistor is conducting current it is dropping about .7v and that voltage times the current equals power - that gets turned into heat. The longer the dwell the more the heat, which is the limiting factor in solid state electronics.
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  #290  
Old 03-06-2014, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston Honda View Post
I'm going to store the truck in a POD in my yard while I work on the body and I want to hear this thing start and run before I do so. I was planning on fastening the module, ballast resistor and solenoid to a piece of plywood off to the side and hooking up everything temporarily. I have to set up a few more things

Radiator
Dizzy
Module
Resistor
Coil
3G Alternator
Megafuse and holder
Solenoid
Battery and cables


Anything else come to mind?
So much for storing the truck in a POD. They don't allow you to store vehicles in them any way, I guess I'll just cover it up or take my Lexus out of storage and tow the chassis over there.

Now that I've kinda got the harness and module figured out should I need anything else to get it running.

I don't know if I need to get a ported vacuum switch. The one on my stock manifold has three ports. I'm not running any emissions, so correct me if I'm wrong, but I need two ports. One for the distributor and one for the carb. If I only need two ports can I just plug one?
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  #291  
Old 03-06-2014, 11:24 AM
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Why do you even need a switch? Are you going with all of the original "stuff"? I just run ported vacuum straight to the advance.
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Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads, Weiand intake, Street Demon 750/ZF5/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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  #292  
Old 03-06-2014, 11:33 AM
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I just called it ported vacuum switch because that's what they call it in the LMC catalog. I can't find my recent catalog, but they are on page 47 of last summers issue. Do I even need to run one of these?
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  #293  
Old 03-06-2014, 11:50 AM
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You don't have to run one. I haven't looked at the catalog, but most of the "switches" are units that screw into some coolant port and open or close based on coolant temp. Some are used for EGR, and some for when and where vacuum advance comes in. I don't run one.
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  #294  
Old 03-06-2014, 12:13 PM
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So I guess my question is, how do I hook up the distributors vacuum advance? Just hook it up to the carb and that's it. I really don't know how all the vacuum stuff works, especially because the rats nest that was under the hood to begin with (sticks, bolts, and screws shoved in damn near every hose and vacuum line in there).
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  #295  
Old 03-06-2014, 01:12 PM
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The simple way is to run a vacuum line from ported vacuum on the carb to the advance on the dizzy. Nothing else is needed - if you don't have emissions testing.

But, some emissions testing requires everything to be there and operable, so if you have that they you will need everything. On the other hand, some emissions testing just checks the exhaust gases and the simple setup might pass.
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Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads, Weiand intake, Street Demon 750/ZF5/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Worst fear: I die and my wife sells my trucks for what I've told her I have in them.
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  #296  
Old 03-07-2014, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis View Post
The simple way is to run a vacuum line from ported vacuum on the carb to the advance on the dizzy. Nothing else is needed - if you don't have emissions testing.

But, some emissions testing requires everything to be there and operable, so if you have that they you will need everything. On the other hand, some emissions testing just checks the exhaust gases and the simple setup might pass.
Thanks for clearing that up
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  #297  
Old 04-02-2014, 07:20 PM
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Update time!

So, for the past Few weeks I've been getting everything ready to start. Ive got the headers installed, all the pulleys and belts on, oil added, oil pump primed, dizzy, module, coil, spark plugs and wires installed. The positive and negative cables are made up and connected. Radiator support is in, with the radiator installed and filled with coolant.

Click the image to open in full size.
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The grounds are not in these pics, but are there now, from the neg terminal to the block and then a short one from the block to the frame.

I'm using a remote starter gun to start the engine. The directions show to disconnect the coil wire from the dizzy and ground it to the block. Disconnect the primary wire from the battery side of the coil.

Click the image to open in full size.

Then it shows to connect one end of the gun wire to the battery side of the solenoid and the other end to the "S" terminal.

Click the image to open in full size.

Now, the power connector on the module has two wires, one red and one white. When I was building the harness, I read that the two wires had two be switched on the harness side of the connector. So, I did that, the white wire from the module ultimately runs to the coil and the red should go to the solenoid. Right?
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  #298  
Old 04-02-2014, 08:09 PM
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Yes - the red wire in the harness goes to the white wire in the DS-II module, and vice versa.

Edit: Forgot to say it looks beautiful! Good job.
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Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads, Weiand intake, Street Demon 750/ZF5/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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  #299  
Old 04-02-2014, 08:34 PM
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OK, so that's hooked up correctly. I tried to start it using the gun and it didn't start, nothing, no sound, nothing. I said the hell with the gun and tried running a jumper cable from the battery to the starter and the starter seems like it has drag and is super slow. This leads me to believe it is a timing issue, and since I changed the dizzy and the mark I made on the old dizzy shaft is now irrelevant, the dizzy must not be rotated to the correct spot. If I bring the #1 cylinder to TDC, the timing mark on the damper should be in line with the arrow on the timing cover, correct?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis View Post
Edit: Forgot to say it looks beautiful! Good job.
Edit: Forgot to say thank you!
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  #300  
Old 04-02-2014, 08:38 PM
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The timing marks on the damper are directly linked to the piston.
They will always line up.

Check that you have good grounds.
I know you just painted everything.
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'87 F-250
460, 4V 0-80457s, Edelbrock Intake, Saginaw PS Pump, BW 1356 4x4, 4.10 10.25", 130A 3G Alt., PMGR starter, ZF-5, - Lil' Red
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg117/donjamer/FTE%20Pics/blumax500-1-1.jpgFTE Fraternity of Blue Max
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:38 PM
 
 
 
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