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Newbie 85 f250 frame off resto (Image Heavy)

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  #226  
Old 03-04-2014, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Piston Honda View Post
Looks good, how did you set up your alternator without using the smog pump bracket? It looks like you don't have any bracket there.

Yeah, it's an ARP bolt kit. I had issues with the kit, there were multiple bolts missing or the wrong length. At first the gentleman on the phone at ARP didn't seem to friendly, but they did end up sending the correct and missing bolts.
I just have some small pieces of tubing separating it, the alternator isn't perfectly straight with the belt. I need a separator. I tossed my old smog pump bracket, when now I need one. I could have modified it to work only as a alternator bracket.
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  #227  
Old 03-04-2014, 10:05 PM
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There are several styles that have either replaceable or washable filters in them. Here's one.
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  #228  
Old 03-04-2014, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
You're sucking clean filtered air into your engine???

As for an alternator bracket, you can find them at JBG or cheap on Ebay.
I'm confused how this works. If the oil cap is not connected to the air filter housing (like the one I have) the engine is still sucking in clean air. Isn't the opening in the oil cap I'm using just letting air vent from the engine into the engine bay. What I'm getting at is, does the engine air have to feed back into the air filter housing for the engine to run properly?
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  #229  
Old 03-04-2014, 10:11 PM
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The oil cap is the air INLET, making up for the vacuum of the PCV valve in the other cover.
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  #230  
Old 03-04-2014, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
The oil cap is the air INLET, making up for the vacuum of the PCV valve in the other cover.
OK, I thought it was the other way.

My cap does have a filter in there, but it looks like a lot of stuff could get through it. That's why I thought the air direction was reversed and the filter was just keeping dirt and debris from falling into the heads. It's probably a better option to go with the stock one then.
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  #231  
Old 03-04-2014, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
The oil cap is the air INLET, making up for the vacuum of the PCV valve in the other cover.
Yes, exactly.

The PCV valve sucks in the blowby gasses, the air inlet on the other side lets filtered air in to replace the volume lost via that valve.
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  #232  
Old 03-04-2014, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
You're sucking clean filtered air into your engine???

As for an alternator bracket, you can find them at JBG or cheap on Ebay.
Been there done that, all of the cheap ones on Ebay are listed for 289/302/351W. If they're made to work on a 302 and smaller they WON'T work on a 351W. Already been there and done that. They are very hard to find for a 351W low mount. Factory 351W brackets are expensive.
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  #233  
Old 03-04-2014, 10:41 PM
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OK, I thought it was the other way.

My cap does have a filter in there, but it looks like a lot of stuff could get through it. That's why I thought the air direction was reversed and the filter was just keeping dirt and debris from falling into the heads. It's probably a better option to go with the stock one then.
The cheap ones have a screen capable of keeping rocks out. Not what I want. But the better ones have a true filter - and that's the way I'm going.
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  #234  
Old 03-04-2014, 10:46 PM
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The cheap ones have a screen capable of keeping rocks out. Not what I want. But the better ones have a true filter - and that's the way I'm going.
That would explain the price difference, lol, 3$ vs 33$

What about the header gaskets, any one heard of Remflex? It looks like a quality product compared to the ones that came with the headers.
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  #235  
Old 03-05-2014, 01:35 AM
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I cant believe you had that easy of a tie getting those bed bolts out. I soaked all of the nuts in PB blaster for two days and then I to my 1/2 inch impact to them striped out the bed. Than I welded nuts to the top of the carriage bolts and heated up the nuts that weren't next to the fuel tank. I got one off and the other broke. I had to take an air hammer to the other two. Pain in the ACE!
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  #236  
Old 03-05-2014, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by FordFETruck View Post
Been there done that, all of the cheap ones on Ebay are listed for 289/302/351W. If they're made to work on a 302 and smaller they WON'T work on a 351W. They are very hard to find for a 351W low mount. Factory 351W brackets are expensive.
Ah, that must be why JBG sells that little adapter piece.

I see a market here.
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  #237  
Old 03-05-2014, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by callen427 View Post
I cant believe you had that easy of a tie getting those bed bolts out. I soaked all of the nuts in PB blaster for two days and then I to my 1/2 inch impact to them striped out the bed. Than I welded nuts to the top of the carriage bolts and heated up the nuts that weren't next to the fuel tank. I got one off and the other broke. I had to take an air hammer to the other two. Pain in the ACE!
Did you use a torch at all?
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  #238  
Old 03-05-2014, 03:29 PM
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Sure did until cherry red. I really like what you have done so far! Is that por15 a really tough paint? I a in the process of welding in new cab corners and rocker panels on my 85 F250.
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  #239  
Old 03-05-2014, 04:41 PM
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Sure did until cherry red. I really like what you have done so far! Is that por15 a really tough paint? I a in the process of welding in new cab corners and rocker panels on my 85 F250.
I guess I just got lucky with the bed bolts. I have to say that the POR 15 is the strongest paint I've seen. I wouldn't say that it's good looking paint, but it definitely is tough! Prep is key also.
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  #240  
Old 03-05-2014, 05:07 PM
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I was wondering id you have had any luck finding interior panels? I cant find an actual dash. I am not a fan of the dash cover pads. Also I can not find the kick panels anywhere!! My truck is missing them and I have had junk yards or the web.
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