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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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  #151  
Old 02-21-2014, 04:06 PM
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No, it is not flush.
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  #152  
Old 02-21-2014, 04:07 PM
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That's what I'm wondering from both the first and second pics.
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  #153  
Old 02-21-2014, 04:50 PM
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It won't go in any farther. I measured the depth from the crank seal into the crank and the balancer is bottoming out
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  #154  
Old 02-21-2014, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston Honda View Post
It won't go in any farther. I measured the depth from the crank seal into the crank and the balancer is bottoming out
Is this a Ford balancer or an aftermarket one?
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  #155  
Old 02-21-2014, 05:14 PM
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It's a Ford, the original one at that. I haven't changed anything that would make a difference as far as pulleys not lining up.
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  #156  
Old 02-21-2014, 05:15 PM
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Are there any burr's inside of the balancer?
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  #157  
Old 02-21-2014, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordFETruck View Post
Are there any burr's inside of the balancer?
No burr's, smooth as can be. I do see something of concern on the outside of the stub, not keeping it out, but there's a groove in the stub of the balancer. We'll call this line "L1". The old seal must have ground a groove, so I'm sure the new seal will leak. But looking at where the groove is in relation to the thickness of the seal it doesn't look like the HB was in any further then it goes in right now. Unless this groove is there on all stock HB's.

Click the image to open in full size.

In this pic you can see where the outside of the seal sits on the stub right now. "L2"

Click the image to open in full size.

.......and where it "should" sit "L3"

Click the image to open in full size.

Does anyone else see the difference in the shine of the metal between L1 & L2 and then L2 & L3? If that makes sense. It looks to me that L2 to L3 was exposed and wasn't in the timing cover.
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  #158  
Old 02-21-2014, 06:40 PM
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Yeah it does kinda look like that. Have you looked closely at the crank to make sure it's smooth? And you've tried putting it on without the key to make sure the key isn't binding it somehow?
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  #159  
Old 02-21-2014, 07:31 PM
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I haven't taken the key out this entire build. Is it a PITA to get it back in?

EDIT: Is it possible a PO changed out the balancer with a different year or something?
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  #160  
Old 02-21-2014, 07:54 PM
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The key isn't hard to get back in, it's harder to get out than in. Just tap it back in with a ball pein hammer.
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  #161  
Old 02-21-2014, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston Honda View Post
EDIT: Is it possible a PO changed out the balancer with a different year or something?
Possible I guess, not sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FordFETruck
The key isn't hard to get back in, it's harder to get out than in. Just tap it back in with a ball pein hammer.
I agree, it's pretty easy to get in, a pain to get out though.
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  #162  
Old 02-21-2014, 10:00 PM
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Personally I'd say to hell with that balancer install tool and just use the bolt for it and a breaker bar! I'll bet you it'll go right in and seat fully. I've done mine that way three times and it's worked flawlessly every time. Use a light penetrating oil on the shaft and inside the balancer.
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  #163  
Old 02-21-2014, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordFETruck View Post
Personally I'd say to hell with that balancer install tool and just use the bolt for it and a breaker bar! I'll bet you it'll go right in and seat fully. I've done mine that way three times and it's worked flawlessly every time. Use a light penetrating oil on the shaft and inside the balancer.
I agree, and mine just slid on by hand. It fit tight, but I definitely wasn't an interference fit
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  #164  
Old 02-21-2014, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole Neese View Post
I agree, and mine just slid on by hand. It fit tight, but I definitely wasn't an interference fit
Mine requires little force with a 16" breaker bar. Especially if you spray it down with a light oil.
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  #165  
Old 02-21-2014, 11:51 PM
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A few things come to mind as the culprits

1. I changed the timing set, the crank gear could be thicker and therefore keeping the HB out that extra thickness.
If you measure from the timing gear to the end of the crank snout, it's 2". If you measure from where the inside edge of the HB( where it " should" sit flush to the crank snout) to the end of the stub it's 2 1/8". So maybe that's why the balancer is out 1/8" from the crank snout and not flush.

2. Water pump has been changed, but the measurement from the back to the front of each pump is within 1/32 of an inch.

3. When I took the water pump off the timing cover originally I don't know if there was a paper gasket( 1/16" maybe) between them. I know for a fact there was no paper gasket in between the timing cover and the block( another 1/16").

So with the two gaskets and the discrepancy of the 1/32" between the old water pump and the new you get maybe a 1/8"+ of stuff holding the water pump out further.

Now...... when I looked under the ring of assembly oil on L2 there is a groove there also. So it seems like the seal is in the exact same place on the HB that it was pre-build.


Are we confused yet?
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:51 PM
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