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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Newbie 85 f250 frame off resto (Image Heavy)

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  #136  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:43 PM
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See if you can send it back, it's not worth trying to mess it up to plug those holes. If you don't plug them, lots of exhaust will be coming out of those holes.
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  #137  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:45 PM
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It's already been installed though, do you think they will take it back?
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  #138  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:46 PM
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It's already been installed though, do you think they will take it back?
Don't tell them it's been installed, just say it's new and never used. Technically it hasn't been used yet.
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1986 Ford F-250 XL 4X2 351W H.O. Weiand Stealth Intake, Comp XE250H Cam, Comp Magnum Rockers. Summit/Holley 600 CFM 4010 4V Carburetor. 130A 3G Alternator. PMGR Starter. 10.25" Rear With Open 3.55:1. 237,000 miles.
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  #139  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:52 PM
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I give it a try.

Another question. If I have a sending unit in my tank do I need the mech pump?It had both to begin with.
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  #140  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:55 PM
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Edelbrock said that manifold is a direct replacement for the 4V HO manifold. That being the case the exhaust gas comes up through that hole and into the EGR valve itself. Lots of guys on here have made block off plates with everything from a Coke can to stainless steel sheet. You will need a gasket on the manifold, your block off plate, another gasket, and then the carb. And the bottom gasket has to fully cover the hole, as does the plate.
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  #141  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:57 PM
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The sending unit, meaning just the float and resistor combo, is used with a mechanical pump on the engine. The in-tank electric pump usually includes the sending unit and you don't need the mechanical pump on the engine.
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  #142  
Old 02-20-2014, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis View Post
Edelbrock said that manifold is a direct replacement for the 4V HO manifold. That being the case the exhaust gas comes up through that hole and into the EGR valve itself. Lots of guys on here have made block off plates with everything from a Coke can to stainless steel sheet. You will need a gasket on the manifold, your block off plate, another gasket, and then the carb. And the bottom gasket has to fully cover the hole, as does the plate.
Seems like a lot of potential for leaks. Intake, gasket, plate, gasket, spacer, gasket, and carb.
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  #143  
Old 02-20-2014, 11:03 PM
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The sending unit, meaning just the float and resistor combo, is used with a mechanical pump on the engine. The in-tank electric pump usually includes the sending unit and you don't need the mechanical pump on the engine.
I tried sliding the mech pump in the timing cover today and it doesn't seem to want to go in. Any tricks?
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  #144  
Old 02-20-2014, 11:14 PM
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There are potential for leaks, but it can and does work. You might find a commercial block off plate that is less likely to leak.

The arm on the pump is hitting the actuator cam and you are compressing the spring in the pump as you tighten the bolts down. Turn the engine half a turn or so and see if it gets easier. There are points in the engine's revolution where the arm is just barely compressed and places where it is highly compressed - which is where you probably are.
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  #145  
Old 02-20-2014, 11:16 PM
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Trucks coming right along looks good.
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  #146  
Old 02-20-2014, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis View Post
There are potential for leaks, but it can and does work. You might find a commercial block off plate that is less likely to leak.

The arm on the pump is hitting the actuator cam and you are compressing the spring in the pump as you tighten the bolts down. Turn the engine half a turn or so and see if it gets easier. There are points in the engine's revolution where the arm is just barely compressed and places where it is highly compressed - which is where you probably are.
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Trucks coming right along looks good.
Thanks! I'm at a point where everything seems to be giving me trouble right now
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  #147  
Old 02-21-2014, 08:07 AM
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Ok, so I peeled the intake of the motor and it's not that bad. The RTV should clean up no problem.

I believe the one I need is #2181. Before I order the new one, should I know anything else?
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  #148  
Old 02-21-2014, 08:10 AM
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I agree you want the non-EGR unit, and if that is 2181 then go for it. I can't think of anything else.
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  #149  
Old 02-21-2014, 12:49 PM
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I found a spacer to use with the installation tool and I'm trying to get the harmonic balancer on I think it's all the way on but the pulleys don't seem to line up correctly.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Click the image to open in full size.

I measured the depth of the stub on the back of the balancer and I don't think it can go in any more. Why don't the pulleys line up? Am I missing something?
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  #150  
Old 02-21-2014, 03:50 PM
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In the top picture, is the inside of the balancer flush with the crank snout? I can't tell from the pic. If it's not I'm pretty sure it needs to go farther.
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