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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:43 PM
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See if you can send it back, it's not worth trying to mess it up to plug those holes. If you don't plug them, lots of exhaust will be coming out of those holes.
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:45 PM
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It's already been installed though, do you think they will take it back?
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Piston Honda View Post
It's already been installed though, do you think they will take it back?
Don't tell them it's been installed, just say it's new and never used. Technically it hasn't been used yet.
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:52 PM
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I give it a try.

Another question. If I have a sending unit in my tank do I need the mech pump?It had both to begin with.
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:55 PM
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Edelbrock said that manifold is a direct replacement for the 4V HO manifold. That being the case the exhaust gas comes up through that hole and into the EGR valve itself. Lots of guys on here have made block off plates with everything from a Coke can to stainless steel sheet. You will need a gasket on the manifold, your block off plate, another gasket, and then the carb. And the bottom gasket has to fully cover the hole, as does the plate.
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:57 PM
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The sending unit, meaning just the float and resistor combo, is used with a mechanical pump on the engine. The in-tank electric pump usually includes the sending unit and you don't need the mechanical pump on the engine.
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis View Post
Edelbrock said that manifold is a direct replacement for the 4V HO manifold. That being the case the exhaust gas comes up through that hole and into the EGR valve itself. Lots of guys on here have made block off plates with everything from a Coke can to stainless steel sheet. You will need a gasket on the manifold, your block off plate, another gasket, and then the carb. And the bottom gasket has to fully cover the hole, as does the plate.
Seems like a lot of potential for leaks. Intake, gasket, plate, gasket, spacer, gasket, and carb.
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2014, 11:03 PM
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The sending unit, meaning just the float and resistor combo, is used with a mechanical pump on the engine. The in-tank electric pump usually includes the sending unit and you don't need the mechanical pump on the engine.
I tried sliding the mech pump in the timing cover today and it doesn't seem to want to go in. Any tricks?
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:14 PM
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There are potential for leaks, but it can and does work. You might find a commercial block off plate that is less likely to leak.

The arm on the pump is hitting the actuator cam and you are compressing the spring in the pump as you tighten the bolts down. Turn the engine half a turn or so and see if it gets easier. There are points in the engine's revolution where the arm is just barely compressed and places where it is highly compressed - which is where you probably are.
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2014, 11:16 PM
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Trucks coming right along looks good.
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2014, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis View Post
There are potential for leaks, but it can and does work. You might find a commercial block off plate that is less likely to leak.

The arm on the pump is hitting the actuator cam and you are compressing the spring in the pump as you tighten the bolts down. Turn the engine half a turn or so and see if it gets easier. There are points in the engine's revolution where the arm is just barely compressed and places where it is highly compressed - which is where you probably are.
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Trucks coming right along looks good.
Thanks! I'm at a point where everything seems to be giving me trouble right now
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2014, 08:07 AM
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Ok, so I peeled the intake of the motor and it's not that bad. The RTV should clean up no problem.

I believe the one I need is #2181. Before I order the new one, should I know anything else?
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2014, 08:10 AM
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I agree you want the non-EGR unit, and if that is 2181 then go for it. I can't think of anything else.
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2014, 12:49 PM
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I found a spacer to use with the installation tool and I'm trying to get the harmonic balancer on I think it's all the way on but the pulleys don't seem to line up correctly.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

I measured the depth of the stub on the back of the balancer and I don't think it can go in any more. Why don't the pulleys line up? Am I missing something?
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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2014, 03:50 PM
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In the top picture, is the inside of the balancer flush with the crank snout? I can't tell from the pic. If it's not I'm pretty sure it needs to go farther.
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:50 PM
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