For you guys that have the delete capable tuners, I hope you got about $2,000 or more for them when you sell.

I blew my turbo about a year after my install, but dealer said they had a lot of turbo issues and warranty covered it. Once I checked into H&S I found the took the boost limit back to factory if your not running aftermarket turbo. Mine was limited to 33 psi on daily driving, but during competition it was turned off and would see 38 plus psi.

They also changed the tuning to keep cylinder pressure lower at the beginning of launch from start. The had issues with weak connecting rods and overall block strength.

FYI if you're on the fence about buying a new 2014, DON'T do it, pay the extra and get the 2015. Unless you're okay with buying the inferior engine and transmission. I'm trying to work a deal to get rid of my 2011 and get the 2015. Do the research and check out the details of it all, I guess that's the main thing I'm saying.

 

They must've altered the tuning cause mine never goes over 24psi on performance setting

 

Definitely take off the intake when your removing the EGR or you will most likely end up like me. I was the one who broke one of my injectors when removing the EGR. It didn't up biting me too bad, but was more annoying then anything. A $2400 upgrade turned into a $3500 when all said and done and my truck was down for about 2 weeks(the annoying part).

 

They did change it back to "factory" boost of about 23, but like you I think mine has hit 24 a few times.

That's what I meant to say but maybe not too clear. After my turbo blew, I checked in with H&S, they told me they had seen a lot of them too so that's when they released another revision to the tuner. I don't recal what revision it was when they did it, but anything for at least the last 12 months or so has the lower boost restriction. They say they changed other parameters to compensate for it but I'm not sure. I wish I would have run it over the dyno before they changed it so I could compare todays numbers.

Seat of the pants fealing, .... it was faster and stronger before the change. Either way with stock fuel pump being the limit tuning won't matter anyway. Then the turbo and injectors start restricting you. I can't wait until I can get a 2015, or at least start changing mine over. A guy is in process of doing it right now, I hope he has it done in time for the next truck pull Aug 23rd.

 

Ya mines a 13 so I won't be upgrading til 16 if at all. Might keep this one for farm work truck and just buy new one for personal. See how it goes closer to then. Since mines a platinum I might trade and just buy a different lariat or xlt for farm truck.

 

Did you find anything for the 14. I kept the H&S I had on my 08 but when I found it wouldn't work on the 14 I sold it. Now I have none. I'm trying to stay stock but every time it cleans I think about deleting.

 

Does anybody know where I can get an H&S tuner for my 2011? I want to remove the def egr and replace the exhaust pipes where the filter is located. Not to concerned about using for racing. Just want better mileage. I live in Alberta. Thanks.

 

Deleted or "Sulphur Tuned" H&S Mini Maxx's are fairly easy to come by in AB. If you haven't looked on Kijiji on Alberta for your '11, check out North American Diesel out of Edmonton (NADP), they got my set up for deletes on my '13.

 

Tofan
When you say "broke an injector" did you physically break it or did the mod cause it to break?

 

He physically bumped it with the egr as he was removing it from the engine compartment.

 

Whew...just read through this entire thread. Thinking about ordering a 2015 and was looking for info.

 

How long did your egr delete and exhaust def tank removal take? And where exactly do I put my unlock code for the tuner to delete the def usage? The only menu setting i can find that takes a code is apparently for high or low sulfur fuel and my code won't work in that spot.

Also how high egt is too high? At what point does **** start to melt? Is the factory setting in the tuner of 1450 degrees accurate? I question this as the coolant defuel temp is 220 and I've had mine up to that and that's about where the fan kicks on so I'm guessing it's not to hot for it? Or is that extra emergency hot fan or something? Seems very hot to me and I was gonna slow down but no warning message and the fan kicked on and it didn't get any hotter so I figured was safe as I've seen a hot coolant warning msg when tuning and all msgs scroll through over and over. I achieved that temp going from San Diego to Vegas pulling my near 9000 pound 5er on that 16 mile 6% uphill grade in march. Oil was 232 and egt 1000-1100ish

 

Just happened to see this. I don't have a tuner on my 6.7 but I did on the 6.4 and I doubt there is a lot of difference. Couple of hours to bypass the DPF. More if you don't have a lot of wrench experience. Are you sure the "tuner" you have is for DPF delete? The manufacturers don't sell those any more except maybe Spartan. Should be a drop down menu with options.

As to temps, they are two very different things. The coolant/oil temp is hot at 240 or so, the EGT is exhaust gas, it runs cool at 400 to 600 degrees, 1450 is hot. Unless you are running some really hot tunes with high horse power you won't see much over 1150 or so. Maybe on a real hard pull. 1300 or 1350 would be a good safe back down temp.

You don't sound real experienced with tuned diesels. You can blow a head gasket if you're not careful. Cost you around $5000, be careful. You also void the warranty if you have any. But the truck will run amazing.

 

EGR and DEF tank removal are all straight forward, I did them at a very leisurely pace over 2 days. The DEF tank is very easy, just a bit awkward if you have much fluid still in it (it will be heavy!). EGR a bit more complicated.

EGT - are you using the standard EGT probe location? (i.e. where the EGR connects).
1450 is very high, even for a brief period. I have mine set to defuel at 1250, and I don't like running over 1200 for any more than a couple of seconds. This is perhaps a little conservative, but I don't like the idea of melted pistons. You could probably add 100 degrees to both the numbers I provided and be safe.
Coolant and oil temps I worry less about, and just use the stock defuel setting. The 6.7 has incredible cooling capacity, and by taking out the DPF and the EGR you are taking away some of the sources of heat to begin with.
That is mostly a 6.0l/6.4l problem. I haven't heard of anyone blowing a head gasket on a 6.7 with a H&S tuner, I think there are some out there that have done it, but they are using replacement turbo's, twin fuel pumps and making a whole lot more hp than we do. The H&S only runs up to 25psi unless you have got someones "Hot" tunes, which is very conservative.
A 5k repair cost is pretty crazy too!

 

There is a reason I know what it cost. Actually $5649 I did add EGR blocks and head studs but once the heads are off that stuff is nothing. I've only had the 6.7 for 8 months or so and can't comment on the HGs blowing but if you tow hard with the H&S it better be in stock tune. Like I say there is a reason I know that.

My experience with the 6.7L vs the 6.4L is the technology is much better and the regen has better manners. No need to delete, at least not yet. The 6.7L came out in 11 right, I wonder how many are being tuned. Not many yet I'd suspect. We will see what happens when a lot of them get tuned after warranty. Oh yeah, almost forgot. Why would he need a probe for EGT, won't the H&S read it at the OBD? My 6.4 did and I have an Edge info type on the 6.7 and it reads 4 EGT sensors.