i know there are tons of these threads out there, but i FINALLY just started my swap, so figured i might as well chronicle my experience in hopes that it helps someone out in the future.

the impetus to getting this done is that my auto trans has been acting up and Jasper will be giving me a new one under warranty - so, i'll be selling off the 'new' one they send me (anyone need one?) and finally getting my ZF in there!

so far, i have the auto tranny out and the seats out of the cab with the carpet pulled back. i hope to get the wiring changes done and the shifter cutout made in the floor this weekend while i wait for some final parts to arrive in the mail next week. the, in goes the ZF and years of more fun driving to come.

one thing i did determine today was the the crossmember i pulled from an F-Superduty 4x4 (with a 460 engine) looks like it'll bolt up just fine to my frame.

and, of course - pictures to come soon, but i have to download them first.

 

Dont forget to pull the auto spacer off your motor. I did.

 

Haven't pulled the flex plate, but I did remember your experience this that spacer and planned to not make the same mistake myself. Thanks for the reminder, though!

On another note: what are people's thoughts on running without the rubber boot tha seals the clutch fork hole? Everyone I've seen in junk yards have been torn and I'd rather not pay the $50 bucks or so It costs from ford for a new one. Any know anywhere else to get one?

 

Grab a torn one at the junkyard and tape it up with Gorilla tape....

 

so, mine wound up being stuck to the flex-plate, so I couldn't have forgotten anyway - I guess yours was stuck to your crankshaft, huh? too bad.

think that'll work? I mean, I guess it would for a while, but I think i'll check another nearby yard first.


Also - here's some pics from the work over the weekend:

E4OD and t-case out!




sooted up-pipes and a lousy DP install by the PO - significant rust under the heat tape, and the DP rubbing on the up-pipe. definitely need to re-position...



lots of "blood" coming out of the tailpiece of the old E4OD - I assume this is not normal. ...probably about a pint to a quart total came out. wonder if this had something to do with the trans problems I was having...

 

Nice progress. More advice, when you get to the pedal box dont fiddle with trying to get it out around the steering column. Just drop the whole thing. It's only 4 bolts.

 

good to know - keep the advice coming!

thanks!

 

Fwiw that fluid out of the rear of the trans is normal.

nice project, looks like you have it under control as far as that boot thingy, you dont have to have it... lots of the trucks i work on are missing it.

 

interesting - so there is no real rear main seal in the E4OD. weird.

and that's kind of the way i'm leaning for now. I actually ordered a $2 one from amazon that is for a jeep or something - in the hopes I can make it work. if not, it'll go withouth it till I can find one, then put it on.

i'm also going to wing it on the flywheel cover plate. i'll either modify the auto one, if that's possible, or just fab one up after the fact.

 

well, a boring update this week as I didn't take any pictures of the work, but I hope to get the truck back on the road this weekend.

my pops helped me with getting the t-case filled and bolted to the ZF last weekend while I cursed and swore at the manual trans pedal assembly going in. then, the flywheel and clutch went in, the clutch hydraulics were installed and the rewiring was completed - I used Tyler's cheat-sheets combined with the vehicle wiring diagrams and just modified the automatic harness since I didn't have a manual one to swap in. probably about the same time in the end as it involved 3 solder joints, but no pin swaps. once I confirm that it works in allowing the truck to start and run, i'll gather my notes and post my approach here.

after that work, we strapped the trans/t-case assembly to the toolbox and rolled it under the truck on the lift. the lift definitely helped, but it was a little tough getting the angles just right without a tranny jack, but after more swearing and kicking it slid in and bolted up just fine. I did find out the hard way that the previous owner was way too timid on the firewall modification for the DP install. so, I took it out, and sliced and hammered that flange out of the way, so there should plenty of room now.

after a quick coat of stove paint, that DP will go back in this weekend. ...along with the driveshafts, the tranny fluid, shifter and front seats.

i'll worry about steering column trim and swapping the PCM later... lets make sure she's drivable, first, right?

oh - and quick question related to the steering column - is that little thumb lever over the ignition key really necessary? it seems like the key would work just fine without it... I ask because I picked up one of those from the junkyard, but now can't find it. doh!

stay tuned for more updates/complaining about running out of time on Monday :-)

 

I think they put that lever in only on the columns for the manuals. It's sorta the counterpart to the mechanism that doesn't let you remove the key unless you're in Park on an automatic truck. AFAIK, if you're just swapping the column cover to get rid of the shifter, and not the whole column, you can just ignore it.

 

yeah, that's what I was thinking. that lever seems to just have a tang that drops into a slot to prevent the ingnition from rotating all the way back to the key removal position. doesn't seem to have anything to do with inserting the key, or starting the truck. and, yep - I took the shifter mechanism out completely, so will have to get a manual column cover or otherwise close up the gaping hole in the auto cover I have.

...which reminds me of another question I had - in taking out the auto column shifter mech, I came across a switch/sensor on the far end (forward end, way under the dash) - it was sitting at ~ 1 o'clock relative to the steering wheel. seems like the switch in question was only actuated when the auto shifter was in Park, and considering the truck starts in neutral just fine, I figured the switch wasn't needed, so I just unplugged it and left it attached to the removed shifter mech. ...plus the shift/starter interlock circuit works through the tranny range selector (which I've already shorted).

anyone have any idea what that switch/sensor is, and if its any problem to remove it? I figure if the truck doesn't want to start without it, i'll just jumper the wires I unplugged from it, but I don't anticipate it being an issue.

 

Don't have the FSMs or EVTM in front of me, but I would bet a nickel it's the nanny brake/shift interlock, that requres you to be pressing the brake pedal in order to shift out of Park. Def. nothing to do with starting; as you suggest, that's right on the tranny (range switch) on the automatics, and on the clutch pushrod on the manuals.

 

I bet you're right - I didn't even think of that. it looked like a switch, but is probably a solenoid instead. in which case, it is definitely not needed going forward. i'll have to hold onto to it, though - never know when you need a solenoid for something...

good thinking, pogue!

 

Nearly done! Started her up and drove her up the driveway. Only got into 2nd, but she started right up, so my wiring worked out, and my unique driveshaft scheme has worked so far. Still have some interior trm to put back in, but she's functional.

It's like I have a brand new truck now! Can't wait to get it out on the road tomorrow! (Gotta put the seat back in first, though :-)

I took some pics but will have to wait till Monday to post.

Oh yeah- didn't change the PCM yet and DEFINITELY have the start-up romp! Would have scared the crap out of me if I hadn't read about on FTE ahead of time.