I hope this is the right section. Its a 351W with 4wd.
It seems to be a very intermittent thing. I have tried jiggling some wires, turning it on and off. I took it to the shop and they couldn't reproduce the problem (naturally). I was going to take it back to them but I thought I would see if anyone has experienced this type of behavior or could recommend an ODBC-II tool and where to plug it in.

 

Your truck probably has an OBDI not OBD II. The plug for this is in the engine compartment on the left fender near the firewall. It is a triangle looking plastic connector. there are several threads on here that shows how to read this with either a light probe or multimeter. Good Luck

 

+1 on that. My recommendation is just buy a scanner. They're only about 30 dollars, and much quicker and easier to read codes with versus the jumper wire technique. I bought mine a couple years ago and it has proven to be invaluable in diagnosing problems.

My initial suspicion is that you have a problem with the EGR valve and/or sensor. But that's only because my truck (91 F150 5.8) was doing the same thing and I spent a month troubleshooting and working through the problem. Not so much because I couldn't figure it out so much as I didn't have the time.

Anyway, get the trouble codes one way or another, post them, and we'll advise you as best we can.

 

Equus 3145 Scanner works good for me. Got it off Amazon but have sen them cheaper at other site since then. 21 to 25 dollars

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I bought a cheap one from Autozone about a year ago when I was out of town and it started acting up but couldn't seem to get it to work. I'll let you know what I find when I get a decent one.

 

Price doesn't matter much. The only thing price tells you is how many "features" the scanner will have. Generally speaking, the more expensive it is, the more it is capable of doing. Some scanners only read the codes. Other scanners are interchangeable between OBD I and OBD II and can pull live data.

If the scanner you have now is reading codes, that's all you need. If it doesn't seem to be working right, try replacing the battery.

 

Well, when I read the latest post, I went to the local auto parts store they didn't have an ODB-I scanner and since the nearest other store is 40 miles away, I took it to the only repair shop. After a week they said it was fixed. It did the same thing in about 5 miles. I took it back another 2x and now after getting it out it is still doing the same thing. They replace 2 sensors and said to keep it plugged in. It has a lot of corrosion on it and its probably a bad connection somewhere. Its probably not worth buying a scanner. They said ODB-I doesn't really tell you much. I will probably sell it for what I can get out of it. I'm pretty pissed right now. I just had to vent. Thanks for the advice anyway.

 

They said ODB-I doesn't really tell you much.

First you need real help quit wasting time with those guys, obd 1 tells you plenty starting with the best information first, the KOEO self test. KOEO self test the computer checks condition of all sensors it has control over, flag any it has no connection with or those with return out of spec.

Inability to get any code at all if done correctly and all fuse are good speaks volumes. First check all fuses and pull the computer out and remove its cover, look it over good. Check for any signs of leaking/bulging capacitors or burnt areas.

Let us know what you find, first get it reacting to code scan then go from there.

 

I would try to pull codes myself, if possible. Shop guys seem to be illiterate to OBD1 systems.

What sensors did they replace? Can you eliborate on when the problem occurs? What did they mean by saying, "..said to keep it plugged in?"

Danr1 beat me to the punch here!! +1 on what he said. Could be PCM taking a dump on you and if that's the case, you can easily replace it yourself and keep the beast!

 

The Equus 3145 code reader is the one to get.
A scanner will not tell you much more as I do not think the 92 had a data pin.

You can get one at the link below or at any o'reilly auto parts store.

/

 

Yes I do agree with them espicially about going to a shop because the new school mechanics do not seem to know anything about our older vehicles I couldn't even get my old 88 aligned at one shop because they said thier machine did not go back that far to find the specs. how stupid is that?

 

They replaced the air temp and coolant sensor. What happens is the check engine light comes on intermittently. When it does, it runs real bad, will hardly move and when the problem manifests when you turn the key, it won't start. The rookie mechanic that was working on it actually was apologizing for not being able to find the problem. I will try those thing you mentioned before I drive it off the cliff.

 

Subelt57- I'd really recommend you get a replacement code reader. As Subford said- the Equus 3145 is a good, quality scanner for your truck. Mine only cost about $30 at O'Reilly, and you've clearly spent much more than that on your truck at this point. I won't discourage you from pulling the computer out and removing the cover to check for obvious signs of damage, but if that checks out okay then I'd really encourage you to just buy the code reader. The OBD 1 codes will point you in the right direction without needing to methodically work your way through the entire electrical system.

 

Processor not initializing in the EEC.

Take the advise previously given and remove and check the EEC.
You'll most likely see something like this........ Click this link:A9x ECM's (and same years ECM's) Failures Due to Age

Check it out.

Bob

 

As said above the code reader is the place to start but as other have said it could also be the PCM Computer.
My PCM Computer in my 1995 5.0L went bad last week. I was getting KOEO 565, CM 124 & 334.
So I grabbed my spare EGR valve with its sensor and my spare CAMP solenoid, put the valve on an just plugged in the CAMP solenoid. Reran the test and the 565 was still there.
Unplugged the PCM Computer, plugged into my spare PCM computer with the PCM extension cord and ran the self-test again. No codes all 111's. Plugged the old PCM back in and the 565 was there again. Swapped out the PCM and and reran the test with no codes all 111's.

Opened up the old PCM and everything looks good and new like it just came from the factory. So sometimes you just have to replace the PCM when everything else looks good.
Maybe the 5volt supply in it was starting to go bad and that would be the Capacitor even though it looked good.