7.3 filter head questions
#1
7.3 filter head questions
I've done a lot of reading on here, but this is my first post.
I'm putting a filter head from an '88 7.3 on my '85 F250 6.9 (and removing the original water separator), and have a few questions:
It looks like a pressure or vacuum switch threaded into a port next to the outlet. What is that, what is it for, etc.? Is that something I can remove and plug the port?
I would guess I should use the fuel heater in the filter head and not the original heater on the inlet tube. Is that correct?
Would filling the filter with fuel before screwing it onto the filter head be a good idea?
Can bleeding the fuel lines at the injectors be a one man job? (I have a push button switch that I can connect to the starter solenoid to crank it over.) As I bleed the lines, I assume that the engine will start running after I've bled a few lines - is that correct?
Thanks for your help - this thing has almost, but not quite, exceeded my ability to learn new things.
I'm putting a filter head from an '88 7.3 on my '85 F250 6.9 (and removing the original water separator), and have a few questions:
It looks like a pressure or vacuum switch threaded into a port next to the outlet. What is that, what is it for, etc.? Is that something I can remove and plug the port?
I would guess I should use the fuel heater in the filter head and not the original heater on the inlet tube. Is that correct?
Would filling the filter with fuel before screwing it onto the filter head be a good idea?
Can bleeding the fuel lines at the injectors be a one man job? (I have a push button switch that I can connect to the starter solenoid to crank it over.) As I bleed the lines, I assume that the engine will start running after I've bled a few lines - is that correct?
Thanks for your help - this thing has almost, but not quite, exceeded my ability to learn new things.
#2
I recently swapped a 7.3 for my 6.9 but kept my original 6.9 filter assembly.
If its not the schrader valve for bleeding the system, I think its the sensors for the water separator.
Yes fill the filter as full as possible before putting it on, will help keep you from cranking the engine all day to pump fuel into the filter.
While its helps to have 2 people, you can do it yourself.
If its not the schrader valve for bleeding the system, I think its the sensors for the water separator.
Yes fill the filter as full as possible before putting it on, will help keep you from cranking the engine all day to pump fuel into the filter.
While its helps to have 2 people, you can do it yourself.
#3
#4
#5
I've done a lot of reading on here, but this is my first post.
I'm putting a filter head from an '88 7.3 on my '85 F250 6.9 (and removing the original water separator), and have a few questions:
It looks like a pressure or vacuum switch threaded into a port next to the outlet. What is that, what is it for, etc.? Is that something I can remove and plug the port?
Yes, it turns on the filter light when there is high resistance (vacuum) in the filter. You can just leave it in there, wont hurt anything.
I would guess I should use the fuel heater in the filter head and not the original heater on the inlet tube. Is that correct?
I doubt you really need either one, but you could run both if it suits you.
Would filling the filter with fuel before screwing it onto the filter head be a good idea?
Very good idea. I suggest filling with some ATF or diesel klean
Can bleeding the fuel lines at the injectors be a one man job? (I have a push button switch that I can connect to the starter solenoid to crank it over.) As I bleed the lines, I assume that the engine will start running after I've bled a few lines - is that correct?
I typically crack all of em, or the easy ones at least and crank 10-15 seconds, check for fuel and if its there crank em down and fire it up. Its not necessary to crack them, but it can speed things up for sure, especially if you have a dry IP / lines.
Thanks for your help - this thing has almost, but not quite, exceeded my ability to learn new things.
I'm putting a filter head from an '88 7.3 on my '85 F250 6.9 (and removing the original water separator), and have a few questions:
It looks like a pressure or vacuum switch threaded into a port next to the outlet. What is that, what is it for, etc.? Is that something I can remove and plug the port?
Yes, it turns on the filter light when there is high resistance (vacuum) in the filter. You can just leave it in there, wont hurt anything.
I would guess I should use the fuel heater in the filter head and not the original heater on the inlet tube. Is that correct?
I doubt you really need either one, but you could run both if it suits you.
Would filling the filter with fuel before screwing it onto the filter head be a good idea?
Very good idea. I suggest filling with some ATF or diesel klean
Can bleeding the fuel lines at the injectors be a one man job? (I have a push button switch that I can connect to the starter solenoid to crank it over.) As I bleed the lines, I assume that the engine will start running after I've bled a few lines - is that correct?
I typically crack all of em, or the easy ones at least and crank 10-15 seconds, check for fuel and if its there crank em down and fire it up. Its not necessary to crack them, but it can speed things up for sure, especially if you have a dry IP / lines.
Thanks for your help - this thing has almost, but not quite, exceeded my ability to learn new things.
Youre welcome and welcome aboard!
#7
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Check post #7 in this Thread for a Diagram of the 7.3 filter head:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13077038
Mark
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13077038
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