1997-2006 Expedition & Navigator 1997 - 2002 and 2003 - 2006 Ford Expedition and Lincoln Navigator Discussion

2000 Expy Rear Left Lower Control Arm Removal

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Old 09-12-2013, 08:38 AM
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2000 Expy Rear Left Lower Control Arm Removal

I'm replacing the rotted out lower control arms on my 2000 Expy. The right side is finished.
Can a member please explain how to remove the lower left front bolt without cutting off the head? From the looks of it, it appears that is what needs to be done. The gas tank doesn't allow for the bolt to be removed. It's almost as if the control arm was installed and then the tank. And if that's the case, would a member happen to know the size of the bolt?
Thank you,
Brimis
 
  #2  
Old 09-12-2013, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by brimis
Can a member please explain how to remove the lower left front bolt without cutting off the head?
You either move the gas tank out of the way, or you cut the head and install a new bolt, but in the other direction this time.
 
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:51 PM
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I located the Grade 10.9 16mm x 90mm bolt at a tool shop. I wanted to have the replacement bolt in hand before cutting.
As always,
Thank you,
Brimis
 
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:52 AM
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I know it kind of stinks, but cutting the head off is definitely the easier way to go.
 
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:26 PM
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DO you have an Ace Hardware...IDK, if it matters much but I would be looking for grade 8. ACE typically has a great bolt selection. In Vegas we have a McFadden-Dale's and that place has any individual item a human could need.
 
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ajonesnv
but I would be looking for grade 8.
Grade 8 is not strong enough. The original bolt is a grade 10.9 bolt.
 
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:58 PM
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I finished the job today. A quality 18 TPI blade is necessary to make the cut easy. I ripped right through the original grade 10.9 bolt in two minutes.
I'll post a few pictures of the rotted out control arms.
As always,
Thank you,
Brimis
 
  #8  
Old 09-13-2013, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by brimis
A quality 18 TPI blade is necessary to make the cut easy.
Yeah a dull blade on a grade 10.9 bolt would've left you screaming and pulling your hair out. LOL
 
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Old 09-14-2013, 04:53 PM
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Old 09-14-2013, 10:57 PM
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Those of yours look just like the ones I replaced on mine. But it's not a material design flaw...nope...nada...just ask Ford.
 
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by brimis
I finished the job today. A quality 18 TPI blade is necessary to make the cut easy. I ripped right through the original grade 10.9 bolt in two minutes.
Thanks for the specification. I will be doing mine on Wednesday. I have read many reports of struggles cutting this bolt, after a trip to Home Depot I won't have that worry.
 
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:46 AM
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Before I started cutting I had new bolt in hand which I located at a local tool shop.
I did the right side first which took about 45 minutes.
The left side calls for a quality blade, I used a Morse 18 TPI and cut at a slower speed to avoid heat. I actually cut through the grade 10.9 bolt in about 2 minutes.
I used a 1/2 drive ratchet, 24 mm and 21 mm socket, cheater pipe for leverage and thread-lock.
 
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by brimis
cheater pipe for leverage
I remember those days well, but in the here and now...air tools are my friend!
 
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by alloro
I remember those days well, but in the here and now...air tools are my friend!
Great idea for a Christmas present.
 
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by brimis
Before I started cutting I had new bolt in hand which I located at a local tool shop.
I did the right side first which took about 45 minutes.
The left side calls for a quality blade, I used a Morse 18 TPI and cut at a slower speed to avoid heat. I actually cut through the grade 10.9 bolt in about 2 minutes.
I used a 1/2 drive ratchet, 24 mm and 21 mm socket, cheater pipe for leverage and thread-lock.
I ordered a set of arms from PMT Fabrication on Thursday and the kit is supposed to include the bolts. Friendly air tools are at the ready.

One last question: Did you raise both sides of the truck on jack stands and rest the diff on your jack? I get that the arms need to be replaced one at a time to keep the rear from shifting but it's not clear to me if there is an advantage in having the opposite tire on the ground during R/R.
 

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