Hi everyone. I have a 2000 f250, 4x4 automatic with 158k on it. I bought it a few months ago and have put 3000 or so miles on it. I recently returned from a 2100 mile round trip from NY to Georgia to pick up an enclosed trailer. On the ride back I had some intermittent power loss problems. The trailer is around 3k lbs. At times the truck hauled it no prob as I would expect with power to spare even up hills, easily maintaining EGTs under a 1000, unless I stepped on it. Other times the truck was ******* it even down hills with it being hard to maintain 50mph with EGTs noticeably elevated and tranny temps rising w/ the extra work. The truck felt like it was getting held back, and was really frustrating and probably would have rolled down the hills faster if I turned it off. Gas mileage plummeted to around 9mpg during these episodes. I didn't notice anything wrong on the trip to Georgia when the truck was unloaded, and I got 15-18 mpg the way there.

Just throwing this out there for additional info, not sure if any of it is related...since I bought the truck, a couple of my friends thought it was a bit sluggish and that the turbo wastegate actuator was suspect. I finally got a boost gauge in and never have had a problem registering boost on that gauge no matter how the truck is running...although I'm not sure if it possible to get boost readings on a gauge but not actually have the boost being delivered...my boost gauge is T'd into the map line.
Some other headaches include having a burnt out check engine light so I'm not sure if it is on or off....and I torqued my EBP sensor a little too much and broke it off at the threads when I was screwing it back on after cleaning the tube and sensor....so it remains unplugged....not one of my happiest moments to say the least. Turbo problems and EBP sensor problems seems like it could be a bad combo from what I've gathered.

Any help would be appreciated and please forgive me if I missed any posts that could answer my questions...I certainly searched for hours! I would like to take it to a knowledgeable diesel mechanic or Ford dealership but I don't know any around here (Buffalo NY) and I don't have the money right now.

 

You'll need at least some money - for an EBP sensor. Do you have brake shudder? Did the bad economy episodes happen after an event, like a stop or a slow-down? I'd inspect your slide pins and brakes - make sure the slide pins can perform their namesake. Have you ever used the park brake? If so, it's suspect. If not... moving along. You say you're getting boost. Does it max out at about 18 PSI? EGTs were climbing, was there soot out the exhaust when this occurred? Where is your EGT sensor mounted on the exhaust, and how high did it get?

 

Thanks for the reply. I tried to back the broken off threads from the sensor out of the pedestal but had no luck, otherwise I would have replaced it by now. No brake shudder. I did not notice the episodes happening after any event and seemed sort of random. I stopped a few times and felt around everything and didn't notice any heat or anything burning up. Embarrassed to say that I did leave the parking brake on for a while when driving early on after picking up the trailer, and I thought initially that was the problem, but the problem persisted on and off. I would like to check the parking break and the slide pins, but I'm going to have to learn how. Boost maxes out around 22. I did not notice any soot, but there could have been, a lot of night driving and I'm not used to looking because I've never noticed any before especially with the original exhaust (before I put the 4inch on) was cut a little short so it would have been hard to see. EGT is mounted on the exhaust manifold pre turbo. The temps would climb to 1100-1200 and would have gone higher but I didn't allow it to...and the temps seemed to be about 200+ degrees higher than when it was running normal.

 

I would really look for soot the next chance you get. I also don't trust the parking brake, there is a lever inside the wheel that likes to seize up. That lever attaches to the cable that is visible on the back side of the wheel. After a bit of driving in town traffic (empty), my disks usually register about 140 degrees F all around. I have a laser thermometer that I keep in the truck for things like this... they run about $40.

 

The EBP plate can be replaced. Best bet is a junkyard or used motor. I think it's two small bolts that hold it to the front cover.

As far as the power loss, I would suspect either boost leaks or exhaust leaks. I would also suspect a sticking waste gate since it seems to change behavior on the fly.

 

It's just a smart truck, going to Ga...... happy happy happy. Leaving Ga not so much.

Sorry for the interlude but couldn't hep myself

Here's a link to a slide pin upgrade. I put it here so you can see where they are and how they work. You can check them fairly easily as long as they aren't stuck, If they are you need take care of it anyway. http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/cu.php

 

Thanks guys, I will check out all these things, and I hope it is one of them because they are relatively cheap to fix! I'll keep ya posted! I just want my truck to to running right!

 

Lol, I hope the truck can get happy again....it took a lonnnnnng time to get out of GA as we were close to Florida in Douglas, GA.

 

You mean smoke by soot right? Would an increase indicate somethings up w/ the turbo?

 

It would mean there is a poor fuel to air ratio, specifically not enough air to completely burn the fuel.

 

Exhaust leak, bad turbo, boost leak, bad injector(s), EBPV malfunction... plenty of suspects, but I'm thinking simple stuff first.

Any strange noises or vibration? If so, what is the truck doing when it happens?

 

I replaced some dash lights today and found that the "service engine soon" light was on. I plugged the EBP sensor back in and the light hasn't come back on. I'd still like to have it scanned, and eventually may invest in an AE. I drove it around for a bit today and it seems to be running great. I couldn't get it to smoke much... just a little black/grey smoke while revving it in park. We'll see how it runs next time I pull the trailer a ways (gotta get it registered and pay New York State a few hundred bucks in taxes first). I plan on going through the breaks and I have to replace some front end parts anyways (ujoints and possible a hub) so that will be a good learning experience, and that website from guzzle will be very helpful.

I haven't noticed any strange noises or vibrations and the truck seems to be aligned well, rides pretty smooth. I'll keep an eye on the brakes for now and would like to get a laser thermometer. EBP sensor is still on the list. As far as exhaust/turbo leaks I haven't noticed anything or any soot anywhere...I installed the 4 inch turbo back straight pipe recently and have been under there a lot while it was running to check on everything (I love the sound of it, especially in the mountain tunnels in Virginia). I'm sure there's more to look for w/ the leaks and will do some research on that.
Thanks for everything, the investigation continues.

 

Well, I borroweed a snap on scanner from a friend and here are the codes:
P0472 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Low (not surprised)
P1249 Wastegate Ctrl Valve Perform
P1316 IDM codes detected

Injector Buzz test passed, but a few sounded a little faint, #3 and...I'm going to have to do it again and check.

CCT:
P0269 CYL 3 Contribution
P0284 CYL 8 Contribution
I've read this may have to do with Cam positioning sensors. My truck probably could have been warmed up more. So I'm going to repeat this after the drive home from work in the morning (I work nights).

Ohh boy...not too excited about these codes and results. I cleared the codes. I'll see if the wastegate one comes back on...from what I read this can come on with high boost pressures? And I'm planning on replacing the EBP sensor. And as far as the IDM codes, I'll have to research that a little more. I've read that the buzz test should have brought out some of these codes, but mine passed. I also read that the codes come out with the KOEO self test.
Any advice would be helpful!
Thanks

 

The grey CPS will typically give you the 3 and 8 CCT fail. Pay no attention to that. What you really want to do is set up your AE for cylinders 1 through 8 Cylinder Rotational Velocity and your Engine Oil Temperature. Start recording before you do the CCT and instead of counting on the odds a CPS is lying to you, you will record the actual balance in your engine... with graphs. When you play back the data, the Cylinder Rotational Velocity will read as PERDELS (PERcent DELineation ). Here is a screen shot from Stinky's CCT.

 

Thanks Tugly. Those numbers are pretty good from what I've read about the test...hopefully mine are good too. I don't have an AE, but would like to purchase one....the $6k trailer I just bought was pushing it budget wise. I have to give the snap on scanner back tonight.
I did check the blow by and the paper to the exhaust and everything seemed normal. I did attach the ebp sensor in a redneck way with some RTV silicone because I need a new pedestal...or sensor holder, whatever you want to call it.
Question...I took the sensor pedestal off and it had two bolts and looks like some black silicone sealing it against a cavity. The cavity had a big bolt and some oil in it...do you know what that area is?