96 F-350 with powerstroke won't start

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#16

09-11-2013, 08:02 PM

DougH000

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I know that's how it works, but it seems like every time I ask for help, I get 5 people asking what's the level, so included it in the post.

I'm thinking the same thing about the IPR and I have a new ford one in hand right now, but I really want this to me the last time I work on the engine for a while. I have been trying to get it fixed for 7 weeks now, and I've taken tomorrow off just to make sue it gets fixed

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#17

09-11-2013, 08:14 PM

DougH000

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No water sloshing in the IDM

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#18

09-11-2013, 08:23 PM

stainlessstroker95

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Yeah if you have a new for one i would put that in.

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#19

09-11-2013, 09:15 PM

DIYMechanic

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Try the IPR first, if that doesn't do it, then I think the next logical step to trouble shoot it would be to borrow a PCM from someone and try that.

Did you replace the CPS after this issue started or before? And did you check the CPS wiring harness while you were doing that?

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#20

09-11-2013, 09:33 PM

DougH000

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Before I checked the CPS, I had an occasional long crank (5-8 seconds), and (what I realized afterwards) the engine was losing enough power at a low load, that the transmission was disengaging at 45 mph. Then my wife borrowed the truck and on the way home it kept dying and eventually gave a CEL, which was one of the CPS codes (I can't remember which one).

Long cranks went away after the CPS, but I started to get occasional days of the engine stumbling and then eventually it led to occasional no-starts (for an hour or so). I've been playing whack-a-mole at any potential issue trying to solve this. On the up side, when it runs now, it really runs...the best that it has in the entire time that I've owned it.

No I did not check the CPS harness other than looking for obvious chaffing or other damage issues. Is there something in particular to check for on the harness?

I don't have anyone to borrow a PCM from, and I'd hate to borrow someones PCM for a couple of weeks just to see. It seems the truck has issues every 4-10 days, which makes it tough to diagnose and to have the confidence that the problem is solved.

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#21

09-12-2013, 07:07 AM

DIYMechanic

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I wouldn't think it would be a waste of money to try another CPS. It's a relatively inexpensive thing to try and it wouldn't hurt to leave a know good one in the glove box as a spare. While you're down there, check the wiring harness good too since they tend to chafe where they go out and around the water pump. It's probably fine, but it's an easy thing to check.

I know you probably hate to spend the money to do it, but you may need to get a manual test gauge on the HPO system. Otherwise you don't really know whether you're making good HPO and the PCM isn't seeing it, or if you're not making the pressure you need.

Aside from that, the only other thing I could recommend is to see if you can find a used PCM to try in there. The way the issue is intermittent like that tends to make me think it is something electronic / electrical and not a mechanical issue like a HPOP or injector o-rings.

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#22

09-12-2013, 07:52 AM

DougH000

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It is the second CPS, the first was a BDW from the parts house. One of the guys on the forums talked me into buying a Ford one just in case. The truck acted the same with both CPS's.

I've thought about picking up some brass fittings and making my own HPOP test blocks (instead of $250 for the right ones).

I changed the injector orings over the holiday weekend (and glowplugs while I was there). I was hoping that the TSB that was talking about intermittent missing and dying, would solve the problem (which is why I changed the injector orings). They were the factory ones, so I have no regrets on doing that, but I wished it would have fixed it.

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#23

09-12-2013, 07:58 AM

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Here is a writeup on making your own HPO test gauge:

 HPO Gauge:
You might spend $60 or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled gauge, but having this hose available for future diagnostics will make it worth it.

The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose. This single fitting will be a 90 degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.

Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the HPO galley plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for reinstallation , after testing). The O-rings are reusable, unless brittle, cracked, etc... The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.

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#24

09-12-2013, 08:20 AM

madpogue

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DougH000

It is the second CPS, the first was a BDW from the parts house.

BDW - Bet it Don't Work....

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#25

09-12-2013, 10:24 AM

91 Dually

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My work truck is a 2005 6.0 and it was having very similar problems. The mechanic at the dealer found it was a poor connection in the icp pigtail.

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#26

09-12-2013, 11:26 AM

DougH000

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IPR changed. I flushed the fuel bowl while I was there, and it needed it. The truck will start for a minute or so, then just stall. One of the first times, I had upped the RPMs (because it had stalled a couple of times...I suspect due to some lingering air in the HPOP system).

I was monitoring the ICP signal. At one point, the ICP pressure fell to 400 psi (at about 1000 RPMs) for about 5 seconds. I could hear an engine pitch change, but it stayed running. About a minute later, the engine RPMs just fell away, the ICP pressure went from 800-ish psi to 1400 psi as the RPMs were dropping. Then they too began to drop and met the RPMs at 0.

Any ideas?

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#27

09-12-2013, 11:59 AM

DIYMechanic

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Unless you're game to try another ICP, I think you need to consider another PCM. That's just my $.02 though.

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#28

09-12-2013, 12:07 PM

DougH000

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I'm considering the PCM. O'Reilly Auto Parts can get me one remanufactured by Cardone for $125.99. Does anyone know the quality of the Cardone, or is it another thing that I really need to go to the dealer for?

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#29

09-12-2013, 12:12 PM

DIYMechanic

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I don't know anything about getting one from Cardone, but that's a price you're going to be hard pressed to beat. Try Car-part.com too... They may help you locate something in your neck of the woods.

Edit: car-part.com call the part computer box engine (LOL).

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#30

09-12-2013, 12:30 PM

DougH000

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Also, I have noticed 1 other thing. My FUELPW used to read 0.42 key on engine off. According to the spec, this is normal and says everything is synced up. Now it shows 0.053. Does this tell anyone what might be the error?

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