Evening,

I am a new proud owner of a 1970 ford F100. I bought it last weekend for 2500...I was able to talk the guy down from 4000. The truck runs great, engine purrs and the body is very clean for a 43 year old truck. I just had an oil change done, brakes and new air filter. I also washed some of the grime out of the engine and haven't been able to get anything else done because I had to go TDY. I have some issues that I know I have to fix in order to get the truck street legal (like fix some tail lights, blinker, and speedometer) I will browse through the threads and see if I can find some of the answers to these prob and with my electrical background I should be able to figure it out. Now where I lack the experience is in the engine department. I want to make some changes so that I can get it ready to become more of a daily driver. I was looking for ideas on what to change that will make this engine a little more reliable. I know the basics is a good place to start like spark plugs and cables....but what about changing the starter for the new MAXX POWER starter to clean up the solenoid? Is that an easy change? Should I also change the alternator? The truck has an edelbrock carb, a new master cylinder, new radiator...It is a manual w/3 on a tree and flowmaster exhaust...can you guys give me more ideas or a general direction as to where to start so that I can start utilizing this truck as a daily driver?

P.S I am SO freaking excited i see sooo much potential in this truck, my over all goal is to just keep it as stock and clean as possible. The truck is all original with the original hub caps and all!!

 

what size motor and how do you plan to use the truck?

as far as the alternator, go with the 3G swap.

 

Bare with me, I'm new at this but all I now is that it is a 302. As far as its use will be back and forth to work. I live about 3-4 miles from the base so not a whole lot of driving although that might change if I get moved to a different base which will then might be more of a 30-40 min drive to work.

 

With an electrical background also, I would carefully examine the wiring for modifications and cracking. I had a dash fire from poor wiring, just a warning, probably obvious. I always fix the brakes and then do the suspension, shocks etc., then the go faster stuff. Old rides RULE!

 

From the looks of it the suspension has already been changed...So I wanted some ideas so that I could just make the engine a little more reliable. I was thinking about replacing the wiring with the EZ wiring kit. I know this would definitely isolate the blinking issue to just the swith at the wheel or the actual light assembly. Does anyone know the benefits of upgrading to the MAXX POWER starter either than it eliminates the solenoid.

 

That starter does not eliminate the solenoid... it would only relocate it from the inner fender to the starter itself... and that's not a friendly environment down there. Also think about if the starter goes out then you'd be royally screwed for a replacement since the solenoid would have been deleted from the fender and the wiring significantly altered.

Keep the solenoid.. they're only like $10 and can be changed out in less than 10 minutes. I keep a spare in all my Fords.

EZ wiring kit?. It ain't that easy. Don't fall for it.. it's a marketing ploy.

Upgrade only after addressing the basic systems like lighting, brakes, and steering. You'll probably need to get it to pass the safety inspection for a DoD sticker, right?

On a 70, the first upgrade I would do is retrofit some power disc brakes. After that, I'd install headers and a dual exhaust system with at least 2.25-inch mandrel bent tubing for a 302.

I too have a '70... here's my build thread which includes for some potential ideas for upgrades on your rig... like a TKO-500 5-speed transmission! : https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ide-build.html

 

I'm having a hard time finding any information on the Ford version of this powermaxx starter, The only pictures I can find of one is the Chevy model. Whatever the case, it can not eliminate the solenoid. With an electrical background, surely you understand that you need some type of high capacity relay to operate a large amp draw like a starter motor. If anything, they may have moved it to the side of the starter itself, which is a horrible place for any electrical equipment, right next to the exhaust heat.

Unless you are planning to increase the compression of your engine, the stock starter will do just fine. If you are really worried about the solenoid, go buy a new one and throw it in the glove box. The same thing goes for ignition points and condenser. If you are looking for something super reliable, I would lean towards the KISS methodology (keep it simple stupid). There really isn't a whole lot of stock equipment on your engine now that couldn't be fixed really quickly and easily on the side of the road if need be.

 

Wow HIO, I guess I was typing while you were posting. I guess great minds think alike.

 

We've probably shared the same experiences. Hence, the same conclusion and recommendation.

 

Also, you mentioned something about a "blinking issue". If you give a little more information on what problem you are having, someone may be able to help you with it.

 

The 1st thing I'd do is a COMPLETE tune up. Plugs,points,condensor,cap,rotor,wires,PCV,fuel filter,air filter,vacuum lines,fuel hoses,etc. Whenever I buy a new vehicle I like to bring everything up to a new start with ME. Then I have a basis for when things could be wearing out in the future. Headers will also help your 302 but I agree with above posts. Disc brakes a priority.I don't know if you have the nut-case drivers like here in Phoenix but better to keep that body straight. As well as p/s if you don't have already.

 

Ok thanks for the advice...now about the blinker the right blinks outside and inside the truck but when I select the left blinker I get nothing inside the cab and outside the left front blinker gets bright and the rear blinker is MIA...Any ideas???I was thinking off the top it could be a swtich but I would have to look at the wiring diagram to have a better idea of how its wired.

 

Thanks for your imputs, much appreciated... What does it normally cost to do the brake swap and or the Power Steering?

 

Yep. Sounds like the switch. I bet it even feels a little loose. Probably doesn't cancel either.

 

Thanks I thought it was odd that it didn't cancel out...honestly I thought it wouldn't because it was so old. I'll look into getting a new switch after I check all the wires first