You clever old boy! Clearly since that's at least two original sets with spring problems, your refurbs are probably better. Glad I have the upgraded set on my truck. I did save the old ones and I might just might take you up on that offer. Can't hurt to have a spare set on hand. They are in the storage unit I believe. Do I have a PM with your address?

Steve

 

Steve - I tried to send you a PM but I got a message back

66F250CS has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space.

I'll see if I can e-mail you through the FTE link.

EDIT: OK, that seemed to work to email. Let me know if you don't see it.

 

Chad, cleaned out my in and out box so should be good now. Got your other message. I will try to dig those old cables out this weekend and I'll let you know when I ship. If you are like me you just like an excuse to get into the shop and work on a car/truck project. I'm just finishing up real walnut restorations on three Deluxe 65-66 Mustang steering wheels myself. Of course I expect to make some money on these! :-) You just tell me a fair price for your labor and parts. Steve

 

Once you start to wind a spring you can't really stop in the middle and go do something else or it will unwind and you almost have to start over, so once I set up to do it each spring takes probably less than 2 minutes to make. Maybe 5-10 minutes of pre-setup, basically need to pull out the correct mandrel. My mandrels are 36" long so I can do some fairly long springs. It's not much, though. And I mentioned the wire is not expensive for those great long rolls of the stuff. Spring wire. Also called music wire. Great stuff. I always buy the Precision Brand from Grainger. If you figure out shipping from you to me - I figure that's about what I should be able to get them back to you for. Include a couple of extra bucks for a beer or two and I'll be happy.

It takes a bit of practice to turn a length of straight wire into a nice spring but once you get the hang of it then it's actually a lot of fun. For those rear springs I believe it is 0.055" diameter wire so that is Precision Brand #21055. This is the stuff I use.

http://precisionbrand.com/products/0...-1-pound-coil/

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Here's some of the parts for the accelerator. These are for the suspended gas pedal used after serial 696,001.

C5TZ-9725-Z - Accelerator Assembly



C5AZ-9735-D - Accelerator Pedal Assembly



C5AZ-9C804-B - Accelerator Pedal Pivot Spring



There are also two tiny bushings and two E-clips that hold the pedal on at the pivot point.

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Mine has almost the same pedal, but it has a 3/4" x 1/4" tab welded on the shaft about 2" below the pivot point. There was a 3/4" hole through the floor directly under it at WOT position. My truck decodes as a 3-spd but I think at one time someone made it an O/D truck and then switched it back, long before I ever saw it. I always wondered - does the MPC show a different gas pedal for the O/D trucks?

 

I'm not seeing any transmission specific information as relates to accelerator pedals - so I'll go out on a limb here and say there is no difference as far as I can tell.

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I got my first set of 4 wheels back from the powder coat shop and dropped off another set. I think they came out great. They still have some wrap around the outside edge to protect them.



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Those look great Chad! Just stick them in four flat rate boxes and send them over - I believe you have my address :-)

Just FYI, I got the old e-brake cables out of storage and will get them shipped over to you soon.

Steve

 

That sounds great Steve.

Right now I'm working on another spring. The console lid for the Ranger uses a catch rod (06117) and a spring (06114) to hold it in the open position.



That spring is broken on my console. It is a 0.049 inch wire with a CCW turn to it - 13/32" O.D. - 5/16" I.D.

The first mandrel I tried was a little big in diameter (top spring), but the second one (middle spring) is very close to spot on. Here's part of the original still connected to the catch rod. The rest of it is still hooked to the console. Now I need to count the total number of turns of the two broken pieces and see if I'm there or if I need to twist one more.



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Very nice work

 

Steve, I got your cables in the mail on Thursday afternoon. I had a chance to work on them yesterday morning. They turned out perfect. I'll get them boxed up and on their way back to you. Here's a pic of the springs. I didn't take a before but you know what they looked like.



Thanks!
Chad

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Very nice! Will be good to have solid backup pieces. Thanks a bunch Chad.

 

I can help you out with that.... i have a matching spring .

 

Thanks Bill. If I can't get mine to work I'll be in touch for sure.

I came across the 1966 pricing information. A snapshot in time at least.

At the top of the page you can see that the 1966 F-250 4x4 couldn't be ordered with the body side moldings. Some have questioned that before.

You can see under Ranger Packages that the bucket seats ($118.30 in this price list) were not available on the F-250 4x4 and the console ($66.30) was not available on any 4x4. You can see they also call out the "Regular Two Tone Paint" for $19.40 or the "Deluxe Two Tone Paint for $66.40.

The most expensive option other than some tires for the F350....None of this is pictured

The Cruise-O-Matic (N/A 4x4) at $229.40

followed closely by the

Deluxe Camper Special (F250) at $223.10.



The Extended Length Tailpipe could be had on any 129" WB for $7.90.

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