Fuel Additive with ethanol gas? And truck stalling when driving 30 mph
I have posted about my 1950 F1 stalling when driving or when I push in the clutch when I come to a stop. I have replaced the fuel filter, which was nasty, but that really didn't do the trick. It is clear to me that I need to take the tank out and clean it because there must be a lot of rust particles in there. I plan to try to clean it out with an old chain and then try to seal it up with some of the products that are out there. I also plan to rebuild the carb.
Anyway, a local mechanic told me I should be using ethanol free gas, and that would help some of the problems. We can't really find it where I live, so he recommended I get a fuel additive. I have always thought those were a waste of money, but I thought I would try it. So, does anyone recommend a fuel additive to counter the ethanol issues that could occur?
Thoughts? If I can find ethanol free gas, should I use it? I have a full tank of regular gas in there now, so should I put some additive in there and if so, what kind?
I was driving the other day and three times while going about 30 miles an hour the truck died. I coasted to a stop and restarted it. It seemed like every time the motor died it was when I took my foot off the accelerator. Thoughts on that?
Any help would be great. Again, I am not that mechanically skilled so any help would be appreciated.
Start with the rusting fuel tank. While ethanol can and does pose some issues you need to make sure you have good fuel delivery pressure. The biggest issue with ethanol fuels, imho, is letting them sit too longer in an unused vehicle. Run and drive the truck as much as you can.
Yup, clean the tank - you'll need something beside the chain to derust the inside of the tank. While you are at it, don't forget to clean or replace the fuel line - that crud in the filter found its way by only one path.
Save you money on the additives - your issue isn't the fuel, IMO it is the delivery system.
After you clean the tank, you'll really want to clean and rebuild the carb. That stuff that was in the filter had friends that made it beyond that point.
Anyway, a local mechanic told me I should be using ethanol free gas, and that would help some of the problems.
Yeah. Total BS. I would suggest you find another mechanic. There are a lot of opinions out there concerning Snake oils. Your problem will be solved by starting at the fuel tank , and going through every component of it until you ensure you have a proper functioning pump, filter and have no leaks...... you have a clean supply of (fresh) gasoline, then rebuilding your carb etc.
E10 has been out long enough to know that it's not the bug-a-boo it was once thought to be.
I am an ex nuclear chemist, and I can't figure out what you could ADD to Egas that would counter the E. and still work as a fuel and not damage a cat converter. If you had a filter crapped up with rust, I too believe the problem lies in the delivery system: tank, fuel line, filter. If it was crapped up with rubber particles then it could be the gas breaking down the inside of rubber gas line. Some carbs have a sintered metal filter in the carb inlet, If the line enters the carb into a large thin nut with a swelled area in the carb casting behind it, Unscrew the line (be sure to always use a fitting wrench on line fittings, not a standard open end or adjustable wrench) after removing the line unscrew the large thin nut (don't loose the thin gasket). see if there is a spring and small copper or brass colored filter that looks like it was made from compressed tiny metal glitter (it was) leave out the element and spring temporarily and put the rest back together and see if it fixes the problem. Take the filter to a parts store and match it to a replacement. Don't leave it out permanently.
A fuel pressure test gauge is pretty inexpensive <20.00 and easy to use. unscrew the fule line from the carb and push it into the rubber cone on the end of the gauge hose, turn the engine over and take the pressure reading. there should be a mark or color bar indicating an adequate pressure. Put a rag over the connection when disconnecting the gauge, there will still be gas and pressure in the line, and you don't want gas spraying in your face or onto a hot surface.