Quick history:
Bought 6.0 new in 2003. Oil cooler/heat exchange Mt Etna'ed about 5 years ago, just out of time warranty, no help from Ford National. First event of current problem was 2 years ago, truck wouldn't start after sitting at airport following 4 day trip. Good batteries, healthy, spirited crank, but no hint of firing. Towed to dealership, coded a Cam Sensor, 3-400 bucks later, truck is good to go. Six months ago, truck again wouldn't start, same scenario, good spin, no fire. Towed again to another Ford dealership. Service rep told me over the phone, bad Cam sensor, and oh yeah, ficm fading. Not throwing healthy voltages, should also be replaced before it fails. I explained that I had already replaced the can sensor once before, and was suspicious the sensor could again be bad. He suggested the cam sensor harness could be the problem, since it looked a little worn. Hey, he said, codes don't lie. Not convinced, but needing my truck, I told them to replace the cam sensor and harness, but not the ficm. I had read on here previously that I could get a better product for far less then the $1300 he quoted. (I just had to actually take the initiative to do it before it did fail) So, 4-500 bucks later, I had my truck back. Theeeennnn, about two months ago, the truck wouldn't start, again. Same exact scenario as previous 2 events, ran great until parked, then wouldn't fire despite a strong sustained crank. Uh oh, did my failure to replace my ficm bite me in the behind, or is it another cam sensor, or is it something else? Who the heck knows, but I knew I needed to replace my ficm, so I did, hoping that was what was causing all the trouble. I ordered from ficmrepair.com, with the atlas 40 program. I installed it immediately after delivery, but alas, no start. Another tow truck to yet another Dealership. It sat there for a week and a half before they could get to it. When they did finally open it up, the batteries were low, so they charged them up and boom, the truck started right up, no codes displayed. They kept it one more day to ensure it'd still start, which it did, and told me to come get it. Again, 200 bucks for nothing but a diagnostic and a battery charge. Still no peace of mind that the truck had been fixed, held my breath every time I went to start it.....And finally, two weeks ago the truck again wouldn't start. Same damn thing as previous 3 events. No codes showed on borrowed reader. Having recently been told that my alternator was a bit below par, I replaced it, topped off the batteries once again on a charger, but truck still wouldn't start. Sat 3-4 days, then fired right up, on drained batteries no less. Runs great when driving it, awesome response from the new and improved ficm. I just have no faith it'll start every time so I'm reluctant to drive it, or even drive/tow it back to the dealership for another wild goose chase.
So, I need advice..... First of all, I know I need a code reader, which I understand should be the ScanGuageII (?). Where best to buy, preferably preprogrammed for the 6.0? And would this reader also work on my wife's car, a Toyota Highlander Hybrid? Just curious, the 6.0 is my main focus..... Two, does my disconnecting the batteries to charge them cause the any stored codes to be dumped, hence none showing the two times I hooked a borrowed reader to it??? And most importantly, anybody, ANYBODY have any troubleshooting suggestions for a guy with just enough mechanical knowledge to get himself in trouble? I'm at a loss as to what the problem could be, as I'm not even sure I've EVER had a bad cam sensor, since that code apparently gets thrown often when the engine is spun with no start. Any good diesel mechanics out there want a free vacation in Durango, CO? All you have to do is fix the truck...Just kidding....Sort of.......I love the damn truck, but I want it to be reliable for me and the wife.....Also, I'd like to stop taking grief from my Dodge truck neighbor......

 

I had actually thought about moving to Colorado at one time. Lol

You are probably correct in thinking you didn't need either one of the cam sensors. They rarely fail. Also, codes 2614 and 2617 are often set with a crank, no start.

Your best bet to finding your problem is to get a scanner that will read live data so you can monitor a few pids when it won't start. You will want to look at pids like ICP, rpm, FICM sync, sync while cranking the engine to see what is missing.

 

Yes get a ScanGaugeII Or Dash Boss or AE

SGII at Auto Zone or www.scangauge.com Iv fixed my truck quite afew times with SGII its paid for itself no matter what

here is AE its the Best for Diagnostics Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle

Josh or someone will have to post the Dash Boss Link IDK it

 

Thanx bi, SGII give me the feedback I need?

 

I haven't personally used one, but from what I know of it, it should do what you need.

 

Thank you Blade, may have to stick with the SGII, I like its presentation and simplicity. I've taken a look at the AE and it appears a bit pricey for my checkbook, and any more than basic data may swamp my brain. I will try to track down a look at the DB....

 

I had similar issues. The SGII is worth it's weight in gold. I have to say, I've found more things that WERE NOT the problem than were a cause of an issue but saved me a bunch because I wasn't just throwing parts at it. I have most codes programmed but do need to enter more. When you get it put them in or at least print a list and keep it with you. Here is a link to a sticky thread about buying a used 6.0 were Mark (bismic) posted the codes. Cut and paste the codes to a file and print them. Thanks to Mark for all of his knowledge and help here!

 

My SGII has saved me 1000's

Intermittened problems can be harder to catch no matter the Gauge

Best thing if you get Swamped and its overwhelming is Just Learn how to Take the sensors readings Correctly and Post them Here. Even in the past when my truck broke down I Posted all my readings for all to see, I figure more eyes the better and something may jump out to someone else in a way your not thinking.

Like a FPW Reading Most folks would think its to see the On/Off time of the inject. In reality the actual FPW is not as important. But what It REALLY Does is verify other Sub-systems are working Properly

 

Thanks guys for the advice. I'm working a trip right now and am slow to respond, but they're appreciated nevertheless...

hink, I have definitely thrown money at parts I probably didn't need. 2 cam sensors, a sensor harness, a ficm (maybe), and an alternator. Lets just say I'm slowly trading my old truck in for a new one.

Blade, thanks again for the advice. I hate that the truck may have to fail again before I get a definitive indication of the problem, but I will log and post readings as they appear. Maybe we can nip the problem before it leaves me stranded again.

Question: Do recorded fault codes delete when the battery in disconnected?

 

Another device to read data is Torque Pro fit android. $5 for the app and $20 for a odbii reader and you have live data.

 

hey do you know what Gauges that Torq App will get for the 6.0L??

 

Benny, I've been using it about 2 months. I'll post what I monitor when I tow.

EOT
ECT
IPR%
HPO PRESSURE
BOOST
TRANS FLUID TEMP
TRANS TEMP
VBATT
FICM MAIN
FICM LOGIC POWERLTAGE
FICM VP VOLTAGE
INTAKE PRESSURE
EXH BP
EGT1
Tourque conv ft-lb
VGT for turbo
IAT1
IAT2
Gear
Fan spd. Could be command and not actual
RPM

That's all I monitor, but there are a few more

I have not seen where it can do a cam / crank sensor sync like SG II. I'm sure it would if it were programed in. It will read any sensor the truck has. It just needs to be programed. Tourque pro comes with an extended PID set preloaded or preprogramed by the app developer with all the data listed above. I have not tried it on my other ford cars.
t
Programming entails knowing the correct PID code, converting the hexadecimal data to base 10, converting the base ten current or voltage to psi, temp, etc, converting temps to degrees, and showing the data. So, with some effort, I might be able program in the sync. I've got a PhD in engineering, so I can do all the conversion as long I I knew the correlation between volts and pressure (etc).

I could email the developer of the app and he would probably add the sync program and send out an update.

 

Well, it's failed to start again twice since my last post. First time, no SG2 yet, so no data. Started fine after a week of insolence. Then, 3 days ago, failed to start for my wife. I was, and am, out of town, but I had the unprogrammed SG2 connected before I left. Apparently no codes displayed, but perhaps there are pending ones to be read. I'll be home Sunday and will take a look. Hopefully there'll be some trace of the problem.....

Questions: I have the list from a previous thread of which x-gauges to program, but there's a few more than 25. A few unnecessary ones are evident, but which of the 32 are not needed at all for trouble shooting issues, such as MAP???

Aaaand, I've always wondered if an old after market, no longer monitored anti theft device, the Mobile Guardian, could be playing a role in my no start issue. I know it could remotely disable the vehicle, and perhaps it's toying with me now. The company is long past out of business. Does anybody have any knowledge of this or similar devices, it's wiring, or more precisely, any idea how to remove it???? It'd be one less thing to worry about, not to mention reduce some drag on the batteries..

Thanks to all for their assistance....

 

Sounds very similar to my problem. Suspecting ICP sensor, IPR, or small leak in HP oil system.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-or-cold.html

 

THANX BUD REPS GIVEN!!


That's pretty good for a Cheap gauge



You say you can program more gauges into it??