Hello,
I have a 1998 Ford E-350 RV with the V-10 engine.

My Cruise Control doesn't turn on and inoperable.
Is there a light on the dash that comes on when the system is on?

What is the most probable cause to look at? I've looked at the fuse.

Thanks, Mac

 

What brand CC do you have; OEM or aftermarket? Best way to tell is controls on the steering wheel tend to be OEM.

That's the first step.

 

Hello and thanks,

The OEM CC is mounted on the steering wheel.

Hope that helps,
Mac

PS: I bought all the service manuals and electrical & vacuum manual for the truck. About to start getting into it tonight.

 

Very recently I also had no cruise control (also no horn AND an airbag warning light). Turned out it was a bad clockspring, located under the steering wheel.

Clockspring from O'Reilly Auto Parts was under $70.

Don't forget to post a followup.

 

Hello,

Did you remove the steering wheel to get to it?

Does the Steering wheel air bag get removed, pull fuses or + battery cable?

Thanks, Mac

 

In order to safely check the clockspring its not necessary to remove it or the air bag yet. Under the steering column should be a square brown connector separate from any main wiring harness, spaces for four conductors but only three with wires. From this you can test the switches and clockspring for proper resistance and continuity. DISCONNECT this connector in order to get accurate readings. Key off or disconnect both battery cables 20 minutes beforehand if deploying the airbag concerns you.

If all checks out here then its onto the brake light switch, if there is a secondary CC cancel pressure-actuated switch on the master cylinder check it for continuity with no brake pedal pressure. Also check all stop lights including and special attention to the High Mounted Stop Light (HMSL) bulbs---if they're inoperative this could also affect CC engaging.

If everything in these tests is OK your servo might have failed. Not sure if replacements are still available new, used a very distinct possibility.

Keep in mind some of these components are very, very year specific so seek those listed for your model year.

HTH----I know I'd miss my CC if it weren't working.

 

Thanks for the information, saw the brown connector last night, but had to reread the post this morning. Will proceed this evening after work.

Thanks, good start considering the manuals can be confusing. still looking for the servo, I partially removed the air cleaner last night, but was getting late.

Also, Do you know anything about the A/C system?

I keep on blowing the 15A fuse when I select either position A/C Normal or A/C Max or on the opposite side of selector Mix or Defroster blows the fuse.
Vent, Off or FLR doesn't blow the fuse.

I've replaced the switch selector module and it worked for a minute, but now keeps on blowing the fuse.

Last night I disconnected the electronic Blend door controller to no effect.

Could it be the Air Conditioning compressor clutch as causing the problem?

Thanks in advance, Mac

 

If you'll be doing such work yourself over and over it might be best to get a factory EVTM, available cheap on eBay most days. This is THE authority on electrical systems Ford used however they are VERY year and model or type specific. IOW you'd need one for a 1998 Econoline/Club Wagon.

If you have the van front end, RV body grafted onto that chassis the servo will be just under the master cylinder and cooling system reservoir. It will have a cable snaking from its mounting location to a cam on the throttle body.

If the 15 amp fuse blowing is in slot #13 check the temperature control switch. This is a rheostat or variable resistance control for the blend door drive motor. More than likely a short has developed which blows that fuse.

FWIW the EVTM would give you a diagnostic procedure for that control along with many of the other systems on the stock-configured chassis, everything that Ford built into it. Here's one that's fairly priced: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-FORD-ECONOLINE-EVTM-SERVICE-MANUAL-repair-book-electrical-vacuum-vacume-vac-/271272530132?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item3f291a50d4&vxp=mtr
Hope this helps--let us know your progress!

 

As for a cruise control light on the dash, my 96 has OEM CC and no light on the dash to indicate whether it is on or not. It does work just fine, but no indicator light.

 

Yep---good catch Warren!

Any OEM CC from '92 thru at least '08 wouldn't have any indication it was engaged. Kinda bummer but 'tis what 'tis!

 

Doesn't bother me any. I take my foot off the gas, it keeps going the same speed... cruise engaged. I think the new vehicles have way too many indicators and messages. My Ram displays more than I ever wanted to know, or need to know, like tire pressure- while I'm driving. (I think I'd know if I got a flat). Even the HVAC controls are part of a touchscreen. But it's cool. I dig the old cars and the new cars both. Bubba (the van) is quickly becoming my favorite vehicle in the stable though.

 

Agree with you Warren not only about too many displays in the new stuff but preference on a daily driver too.

Almost seems seems like a competition for who can distract us from the road more than the next guy. My idea instrumentation layout would be user settable warning thresholds that trigger an audible alarm, perhaps each warning a different tone or such, much like aircraft. Without any squawking full attention on the road ahead.

Also a fan of actual controls----can't replace that feeling with a touch screen.

Whenever I'm in my beater car it's such a strange sensation, would much rather be in the van by far. The van is tougher to find parking spots for but just something nice about sitting up taller than a lot of other drivers.

 

I've been a big fan of the Econolines since my 79 *******' wagon back in high school. To me it's kind of like the way the Jeep people call their thing a 'Jeep thing'. You really don't understand until you've adopted one of these big boys for your own. Until Bubba I'd been without one since 06. (For the record, *******' wagon was a term I wished was more true than it actually was back then )

Well, I've taken this thread far enough off course. As you were. Cruise on.

 

Thank you JWA and Warren for your inputs.

That was the first items of business was to get the 2 Service Manuals and then the Elect & Vacuum Manual.

I'm learning the new manual layout for t/s

I will report the results hopefully tomorrow.
Thanks, Mac

 

Hello all,

[QUOTE=JWA;13506694]In order to safely check the clockspring its not necessary to remove it or the air bag yet. Under the steering column should be a square brown connector separate from any main wiring harness, spaces for four conductors but only three with wires. From this you can test the switches and clockspring for proper resistance and continuity. DISCONNECT this connector in order to get accurate readings. Key off or disconnect both battery cables 20 minutes beforehand if deploying the airbag concerns you.

Well I verified all wiring thru the brown connector and all ohm values to steering wheel and its checks good from the Ford manual.

I will look into the Brake Master Cylinder for the switch next.
Thanks, Mac