I just finished por-15 black coat paint on floor so ready to find right insulation for floor
keep away heat before install new plywood board on floor.

look which better insulation for floor and wall?

saw home depot good insulation rolls ? UltraTouch 48 in. x 75 ft. Radiant Barrier-30000-11475 at The Home Depot

 

In my own experience refitting three E250 cargo vans into work trucks there's no real benefit to anything under your plywood floor. In fact if you compare your before and after floor install noise levels (with just the floor installed) its pretty amazing.

The POR-15 is good to keep the metal from rusting but most of our E Vans develop lots of rust from close contact with the factory rear mats---they absorb moisture and hold it for a long long time. Radiant barrier material under plywood would be much the same.

You're better off leaving the spaces the floor ribs create. You could use a waterproofing coating on the bottom of the plywood (where it contacts the metal) but that's not really necessary, completely optional.

A bit of advice about the wood floor---I run mine all the way under the flange about 1.5" up from the floor. Trimming each section for proper fit becomes a bit more important but when adding the side walls its so much easier, very much like finishing out a newly built room in a house.

Use the radiant barrier insulation on the side walls and ceilings, foil side glued directly to the metal. I use a double layer of the PVC one side, foil on the other and that too greatly reduces the drum effect our vans have.

Once everything is fitted and working to your satisfaction time to add carpeting. I've used a rubber backed material intended for heavy traffic areas, almost no pile but heavy enough to enhance the sound deadening plywood flooring already gives.

I also fill my door cavities with unfaced Owens-Corning or Johns-Manville fiberglass insulation. A bit tougher to find without the paper facing but one bundle or roll is all you need. I've also made my own door trim panels which covers all this and further reduces interior noise. 3/8" or 1/2" with an ABS laminate overlay is my choice.

Anyway hope this helps!

 

Thank much for info..

 

you need a dynamat type material for the walls and roof

 

dynamat very expensive for 200 Sq ft of van!!!

i use Prodex Total 200 sq ft rolls for $100 dollar very good stuff R-16 and glue it floor,wall,top,,

Prodex Total = Prodex Difference: Energy Star Qualified : ICC-ES Recognized : R 16unaffected by humidity : Prevents 97% of radiant heat transfer : Vapor barrier : Elastic : UV resistance : 19dba noise reduction : 90 degree celsius (194 fahrenheit) contact temperature rating : Does not promote mold or mildew : Does not provide for nesting of rodents, bugs or birds : Seals around nails (no leak) : Reflective aluminum foil on each side of 5mm (13/64) closed-cell polyethylene foam center : Keeps its shape over time (doesn't collapse) : Member of US Green Building Council - Made with 100% recyclable


http://www.insulation4less.com/Insul...t-x-50-ft.aspx

 

ok cool..but does it make noise like squeking or crackling .. thats all that comes to mind when i hear the words foam lol

give me a writeup on it

 

The foam mentioned in my radiant barrier insulation and Super E's ProDex is not the rigid foam planks or sheets typically found in home or commercial building construction. Think a heavy duty bubble wrap type stuff with foil on both sides, sometimes foil on one side PVC sheeting on the reverse.

When glued to the side walls and ceiling it serves much the same purpose as Dynamat, damping the vibrations or drum like noises of an empty cargo van.

The foam planks when properly installed and contained behind interior walls is probably the best for heating/cooling insulation. It would have to be cut and shaped in such a way as to provide a full envelope (or as close as possible) This isn't an impossible task at all but certainly not as easy as gluing sheets of radiant barrier aka Prodex, Reflectix etc etc.

Its hard for me to believe the ProDex actually is R16 but any thing similar drastically cuts down condensation on side walls and ceilings. When in direct sun the reduction in heat transfer to the inside of the bare walls/ceiling is quite noticeable, as much as 20* F. Heat is better retained inside as well during the colder months.

Also know Dynamat and similar sound attenuating materials typically require no more than a 40% of surface coverage in order to be acoustically effective within a space.

 

i used had EZ-Cool Insulation for my 1988 chevy G20 last year.. here picture



EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more

it work great but Prodex is more better than EZ-Cool R-13

also Prodex does Benefits/Features: R-value 16 unaffected by humidity : Prevents 97% of radiant heat transfer : Vapor barrier : Prevents condensation : Elastic : 19dba contact noise reduction : 90 degree celsius (194 fahrenheit) contact temperature rating : UV resistance : Does not promote mold or mildew : Does not provide for nesting of rodents, bugs or birds : Seals around nails (no leak) : Reflective aluminum foil on each side of 5mm (13/64) closed-cell polyethylene foam center : Keeps its shape over time (doesn't collapse) : Rippled surface increases airflow.

Ez-cool come from low-E insulation for house ..

 

well that settles it then .. time to go shopping

eddit ...and bought

 

now to figure out how to atach this .... spray glue??

 

I've used the 3M 08088 General Trim Adhesive in the spray cans. Its not cheap but it works far, far better than any other thing I've ever tried---bar none! Some will say there are cheaper alternatives and that's probably true but this is a one time install where long lasting is the key to it being a great job.

With the 3M 08088 its not necessary to coat every square inch to get good adhesion. I paid more attention to first spraying the outside edges with good coverage. For the area inside the edges I'd spray a swath then skip 1" or 2" and repeat.

For the side walls themselves I'd almost "dust" the 3M on, again paying attention to the surfaces where the insulation edges would land. Once the insulation is laid in place a hand or small roller similar to a wall paper seam roller works wonders getting it to adhere to the metal.

I used two layers against the metal sides and ceiling.

 

yeah i used this stuff in the past for putting carpeting on gun safes and stuff and i have two cans lying around so i was thinking of using it 3M Super 77 Multipurpose Spray Adhesive


EDIT ::: after doing research using the 3m site my super77 spray will work perfectly .. now to take pics ..clean the wals take pics again then start applying insulation and also some spray on rubber sound deadner for key areas ...

 

Super Trim Adhesive, 08090

i use 3M Super Trim Adhesive 08090 more strong than 08088

 

I too have used the 08890 but found it's additional strength not to my liking. Its most expensive, cannot be clean off with anything after its cured and honestly is just too strong for things like hanging radiant barrier insulation. That's been my experience anyway.

All 3M stuff is just about perfect so IMHO the 08088 is the best compromise all around.

 

does 08088 can hold radiant barrier insulation on metal wall during very hot outside 90 to 100 degree ? does insulation fell off? just curious..