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I'm building up my '59 F100 with a 223 to start with. But I located a 292 & 4 sp from a '60 truck. Is there a source to help me ID heads and block by casting #'s? The engine & trans (on local CL) appears to be complete from w/pump to carb to shifter, the whole schmear. I also see that T bird dual exh manifolds are readily available on Fleabay for a reasonable price. Is there any steering gear clearance issues using these?
Now for the meat & spuds part: I plan on having Sunwest engine and machine in Medical Lake, Wa rebuild it (close proximity and 5 star rep). I'm looking at building this one to haul a 19' 5th wheel. I'm thinkin a 4 degree cam advance, T-bird exh mani's, dual exh w/ Xover and a motorcraft 2100 from a 360 that I have (Packrat syndrome). Naturally a smokin' dizzy and coil. Think this would get me the torque I want? I'll be running 3.50 gears to start and maybe switching to 3.33's
Any obvious things to look at when examining these engines? I know the basics; looking for any specifics to these engines.
Thanks in advance. BTW I will be starting a thread in the Fridge forum on the exh
I'm building a 292 with a zero-decked block, -113 heads, balanced rotating assembly, and an Isky "E4" cam. I'll advance the cam a couple of degrees for improved torque at low/mid RPM. Of course, this will cost high RPM performance and peak horsepower. Exhaust is Red's stubbies with ceramic coating. Mummert intake and Holley 1848-1 carb. That's plenty of carburetor for a street 292. Well, it's bored to 301, but still plenty of carb.
BTW: This beast is going into Albatross. That's our '55 F500.
Sure will be able to haul a load.
Curious way you chose this model 4160 and not one with an electric choke? With the Mummert intake and headers you have no way to connect the "Hot air choke".
Yes I know there is a electric choke kit available but at extra expense.
I live in Dallas, TX. It's often really hot here. I'm also never one to run with the pack either. Therefore, I have deliberately put a manual choke on it. I carefully chose it (the 1848-1) after digesting Ted Eaton's carburetor shoot out.
I'm still toying with the idea of incorporating a hand throttle! Because I'm just that way.
By the way - very good observation. You know your stuff!
I decided to run the ram horns on this. Picked it up today. It ain't stuck, had oil in it with no coolant and still had some coolant in it that was green and slick. Looks to be rebuildable. I'll know more when I get the heads off. BTW it also has the late 2v manifold. So I'll most likely run my 2100 carb that I know is good
Ditto! A 1.21 or 1.23 venturi carb will make for high rich idle, and poor low in throttle response, and bad gas mileage. The 2100s were not universal in application. Rams Horns wont dictate much of anything regarding carburetor size, type or tuning.
Mike Southern Oregon
1946 1/2 ton with Y-block, '62 Mercury Meteor S-33, '60 Thunderbird, '64 Falcon Futura, '90 Ranger 4WD, '54 Ford model 600 tractor
The carb on it now is a Holley 2V. I haven't dug into it yet, but the throttle shaft has zero play and it's free. That's always a good sign. Think I'll get it off tomorrow and stick it in the carb clean.
And yes, I've made the too big carb mistake. I'm looking for torque as I also have a line on a 19' Scamp 5th wheel.
I give up, where do you find the venturi size on these 2100's? Took the top off and took the venturi cluster out, didn't see nuttin'. Tag # DOTF R b 9j 15
Found it on the side of the carb. It's a 1.23. Man, I wish these forums were around when I was younger. Woulda made a bunch fewer mistakes. Oh wait, I was a kid who knew everything....................
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
03-17-2013 09:51 PM
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