Just had my oil cooler replaced AGAIN. Had it done the first time with head gaskets, studs and EGR delete a thousands or so miles ago, and it turned into a nightmare with an injector hold-down letting go and hydrolocking a cylinder. Mechanic fixed it all up again. When I recently I brought it back with a significant oil leak, he reported that the oil cooler gasket was disintegrated, causing the leak. So he replaced the oil cooler again, on warranty. Great. I promptly hooked it up to the camper and headed over the mountains on a hot day. No choice. Deltas were steady at 24 degrees when I was climbing for 45 minutes or so. Oil got as hot as 248. Water pretty steady at 224. Mechanic says this is ok, though he didn't sound sure. 20 miles later around town, truck starts running rough so I bring it back again. Apparently #3 injector is completely dead.

I'd thoroughly flushed the coolant before the first oil cooler and studs etc and installed a sinister coolant filter between the oil cooler changes.

Are these deltas and high temps ok? Just checked the Tech folder and Bismic reported 230+ as the 'alarm' temp for oil, 215+ for coolant. That was in 2010. Is this still current? I'm way over 15* on the delta, but was operating under a pretty heavy load. Could this injector be related to the hot fluids? Are they too hot? Why would this delta be so big? Any input here is appreciated. Thanks as always.

 

EOT is Way Hot

that truck Defuels and Goes into Limp Mode at 253* EOT

Did they Flush the Cooling System Out when they changed all these oil coolers

That Is the MAIN Cause for Repeat OIL Cooler failure

hows the FICM Volts

is the FAN TURNING ON???It should sound like a Jet Engine on a 747 at those temps

 

It Also Defuels/goes into limp mode at ECT of 221*f

So you broke 1 Threshold and are Really close to breaking another one with EOT*

 

I see an EGR delete. Is the Valve still plugged in ?

Sean

 

when you're doing an engine flush its very tempting not to pUll the engine plugs at least the one under the starter, I would make sure that both engine plugs are being pulled during the flush. I would think in the case of the bad fuel injector more fuel more heat less fuel less heat I don't know if it would have anything to do with the high deltas. But here's what I can say my truck was also seeing some really deltas ECT,I did thermostat oil cooler and was about to do the radiatorit turned out that it was a combination of two parts serpentine Belt tension pulley & water pump.

 

Somewhere around the 250* EOT mark the oil filter standpipe has a bad characteristic of melting into the oil cooler housing. No fun there. It then blocks the oil passageways. I have seen this first hand. If that happens you're pretty much screwed.

 

Thanks for ideas.
-FICM is solid 48v.
-EGR was deleted (or "capped" according to mech) back when I had the studs and oil cooler done the first time. I believe that the valve is still plugged in.
-I thoroughly flushed the coolant myself before the studs/cooler/egr and installed a fumoto valve on passenger side. Used VC-9. Backflushed oil cooler, rad and heater core too. Replaced Tstat and degas cap at same time. I've since dumped the coolant from the fumoto a couple times just to see what's in there - and to make my sinister coolant filters last a little longer. Good amount of sand the first time combined with some tiny metal chips. Not much. Dumped a second time a few days ago, and just a miniscule amount of metal again.

Maybe water pump going?

 

No, the standpipe doesn't melt until 350 degrees.

 

there is a cure for the oil cooler problem!!!!!!!!
it is Bulletproofdiesel.com.
it replaces the oil cooler.
After I found 1 head warped and it was about 50,000 on my oil cooler I started looking.
I replaced both heads and got the bullet proof oil cooler kit.
with ARP head bolt kit.
Go to this web page and watch the video's that will explain why the oil cooler fails and what their kit will do to fix
My oil temp went down to 190
I have put about 30,000 on my 2006 F350 6.0 with no problems

 

Correct, my bad.

 

do you know or can you find out if the truck was ever ran on straight water for any length of time?

 

There is a new and improved water pump For The 6.0 . does anyone know who makes it?

 

glad standpipe not melted.

no idea if its been on straight water. Not since I've owned it anyway - which hasn't been long.

Bulletproof diesel sounds interesting and expensive. Maybe my problems run deeper here...
With another new cooler, and a thorough coolant flush, (and filter) this thing SHOULD be running better than it is.

 

Maybe!! its on the List

you have any Old Oil Coolers you could cut open for a Peak



You need to Buy A gauge we need to check sensors Although I think they are OK


and Maybe just change the Water pump to a Metal IMPELLAR design


Haa it ever been checked to see if the Oil Coolers Helped after a Change


I think you need a New mechanic

 

talking about a man's mechanic is like talking about his wife but I was starting to think the same thing it might be time for a change!