new oil cooler AGAIN, 24 degree deltas?? - Page 4 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

new oil cooler AGAIN, 24 degree deltas??

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  #46  
Old 09-10-2013, 04:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Just for the record Anthony ...

Are you are still using the Ford Gold coolant?
Have you ever had an oil cooler fail?

I know you have probably posted it before (or maybe you even answered the question in a PM from me - lol), but I was curious about your trucks history on this particular component.

thanks!
I did make the cat ec1 switch about 160k ago. I lost one oil cooler at 95k, I bought this truck at 85k. That cooler lasted until about 220k. After the second cooler go out I got serious about flushes. I think I spent 2 days, vc9, cascade, and restore n restore+. And about 40-50 gallons of distilled. Yeah, I went crazy. But that cooler lasted with good deltas for about 400k, I only changed it due to the lifter failure. I do not run a coolant filter either. I have never flushed with tap water either. I would if I needed to, but I just chalk up the cost to owning a 6 liter. Even though I get funny looks pushing one cart, and pulling another cart that both of them are stacked with distilled. Lol.

Speaking of the coolant pump,,,, Figures,,, I pulled my engine last Friday,,, again,,, and my pump has some play in the shaft. Lol. I guess I spoke too soon. No leaks tho. I haven't pulled it outta the cover tho to make sure it hasn't scored the housing. I just pulled the cover off with everything attached. Lol. I've got an extra oem plastic impeller, but all this talk about metal impellers has me thinking about going for it. I'm not going bpd tho. I think they are too proud of their stuff. I'm sure it's good stuff tho. I'm a big box store kinda guy. Nothing is too hard to get off, and a lifetime warranty that I can change out today is extremely valuable to me. That's why I own two oreillys lifetime alternators. I've had to spend the night before waiting for them to open to switch it out. Never again. If my volts drop, I just pull over, do the 6 min swap, n exchange it when it's convenient.

Crap, off topic huh??? Sorry guys. Carry on. Lol
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  #47  
Old 09-10-2013, 05:37 AM
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Maybe you could make a deal with BPD for an advertisement
about you milage. Once you back in the green. Not green coolant.
But Green ink/money.

Sean
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  #48  
Old 09-10-2013, 08:21 AM
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I Did my oil cool about 600 miles ago after what I thought was a good flash only to find out that my water pump was bad with no circulation. I was pulling 25000 pounds out of the Lehigh Valley this weekend, started running a temperature ect but was able to control it By turning on the heater full blast at 70 miles an hour all the way through. I'm thinking I may need to do I know the flesh, I certainly would like to know How you made out with your cooler flush.
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  #49  
Old 09-10-2013, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by run6.0run View Post
That's why I own two oreillys lifetime alternators. I've had to spend the night before waiting for them to open to switch it out. Never again. If my volts drop, I just pull over, do the 6 min swap, n exchange it when it's convenient.


It's amazing to think you need to carry a spare alternator because they fail THAT often..
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:44 AM
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Ok, Run6.0run. You gotta give some major details about that coolant flush you did at 220k. There have been tons of opinions on what does and does not work. You flushed and it worked over 200k miles. So, you obviously did something right. Let's hear it.

For example, did you flush after the 220k oil cooler replacement or before? If the oil cooler was ruptured, he did you do it before? Did you backslash the heater core, radiator, and oil cooler after the flush? How did you backflush the oil cooler to get the debris out of the coolant system? I think you have to remove the water pump to get the oil cooler bebris out of the coolant system. Otherwise it will settle into the block. Did you pull the block plugs and rev the engine to blow the engine out?

I think this thread has been hijacked, so you should start another thread to let us know your proceedures.
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  #51  
Old 09-10-2013, 02:57 PM
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answers answers we want answers!
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  #52  
Old 09-11-2013, 12:10 AM
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I really don't think I did anything special. Driver block drain (the fumotos weren't even thought of back then), got all the coolant out, then did each chemical on its own. I remember friends n family thinking I was crazy cause I really did spend two whole days on it. Prob $100 in fuel too. Lol. But I flushed all this BEFORE the oc change. The oc did not rupture, I just used cascade n restore cause it was not very expensive. Thermostat stayed in, I did not remove any parts. I did pull the lower rad hose to allow a quicker drain every time. I think I had about 360k on the following oil cooler. Again, I only changed it cause of the metal in oil condition. Deltas were still good. I generally have the rad routed out every 250k also. I flush with the heat on high too. I also do a 20 gal flush spurt at every 100k. No faulter on this. Then new coolant.

I hear all these horror stories about oil coolers,,, Crap, after two,, I'd be pulling the engine n hot tanking it to remove everything. Thread hijacked huh????? Sorry
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  #53  
Old 09-11-2013, 05:49 AM
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Who hijacked the thread?
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  #54  
Old 09-11-2013, 09:46 AM
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Yep, hijacked.

So you didn't backwash anything? If you flushed before the oc, there is no need to backwash it.

You basically have run a new oil cooler in a clean coolant system ... And you keep it clean.
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  #55  
Old 09-11-2013, 07:53 PM
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Not completely hijacked, as the discussion is still about cooling hot engines and oil. Seems like it never ends with this engine.

I took my truck empty up to a ski resort (not that steep) and observed deltas up to 18*f on EOT of 222. I wouldn't call this trip "Severe Service" by any stretch and still saw the high delta. (thats after a thorough flush, back-flushes and new oil cooler, twice)

Still planning to remove the Rad when I have time and will check water pump when i'm in there. Wish there was an easier way to test fan operation than to hook up to camper again.

Never did get any input about the metal coming out of my passenger side block drain. THere are some larger chunks that are gold in color. Thanks.

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  #56  
Old 09-11-2013, 08:39 PM
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those chips are most likely the result of the coolant passageways in the engine block Rusting, that's why I asked you if the truck was run on tap water. My truck is doing the same thing I had chips at the engine plugs and the bottom of the radiator, I literally had to drill them out of my engine plugs
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  #57  
Old 09-11-2013, 09:40 PM
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That looks like casting sand. It seems that some of our engines
hold on to a bit of it and it comes loose and gets into the oil cooler.

Sean
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  #58  
Old 09-12-2013, 12:23 AM
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My engine has been flushed 75 to 100 times. I also used nylons back flush method. I have fumoto valves in both sides of the block radiator has been rodded, heater core replaced coolant filter run for the last 30k. And after all this I still get casting sand out. The only way I see to get my engine clean is to pull it and the block needs to be hot tanked and even then I don't think it will solve it. Some of these engines have it and some don't. Luck of the draw.
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  #59  
Old 09-12-2013, 03:33 AM
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If you are gonna change the oil cooler, DO NOT BACKFLUSH IT. There comes a point where it's partially clogged and starts acting as a filter. Would you want to send the crap on your fuel filters back in the tank? But I would backflush it if I was trying to buy some time. Or if its a new oil cooler and I had big deltas.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:14 AM
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Interesting. Thanks guys. I'd always assumed that 'casting sand' would not be metal. I guess I'll just keeping dumping the coolant out the Fumoto and hope it slows down eventually.
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