Found my coolant leak, manifold gasket at the unused coolant port in the head. Thanks to FTE's search button (and a LOT of reading) finding that one!

Anyway with the IP off (to get the pan gasket) and turbo off for rebuild (anyone use Work Turbocharger?) I'm figuring on hitting the high points:

- return line kit (accuratediesels' kit with the IP seals)
- Glow plug controller (accuratediesel's electronic replacement)
- couple of Motorcraft GPs
- valve cover gaskets
- some insulation on the firewall
- turbo blanket?

When I thought I was going to be replacing a cracked head my friend was pretty sure we could go to studs without pulling the engine, just changing them out like bolts. He's a very accomplished mechanic so I trust him on that. My question now is, with the valve covers and intake off, could I change to studs one-at-a-time without pulling the head? A cheatin' bastid move for sure, but I can't be the first one to think of it...

Cheers,
- Jeff

 

it has been done that way, but if you think it needs studs, it would be best to go ahead and do the gaskets at the same time. that said, if you do choose to do them in place, it would be ideal to do them in the standard torque sequence and torque each one, one at a time, before removing the next bolt.

 

That's what I was hoping. I don't think the HGs are that old, heck the paint on this "rebuilt" (don't know who, when or what) engine is pretty good.

That was my thought. When my waste gate disconnected itself I found my Banks could hit 15lbs pretty easily, before I noticed to get out of it. Studs would be useful.

Anybody actually done this and lived long enough to tell about it? I know it would mean dropping the exhaust manifolds but with the turbo and intake off the ol' girl looks naked enough to try this...

Thanks,
- Jeff

 

This thread, and the links within the thread should shed some light on the installation process. Since you torque and un-torque in stages, I don't see why you couldn't do it with the heads on. Just be sure you follow the proper un-torquing procedure when removing the head bolts.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ead-studs.html

 

FYI, there is no "un-torqueing" of the head studs when you install them. Just follow the torque sequences and you will be good to go.

 

I've read quite a few threads on this, they all describe a pre-stretching process that involves torquing and and un-torquing in in four steps... 65,85,100,110 foot pounds. Results in about an additional turn of the nut, so there is definitely a reason for it.

 

those numbers sound about right for the 1/2" bolts/studs of a 7.3, but the OP's signature suggests he has a 6.9, which means 7/16" bolts/studs. when i put studs in my 6.9, ARP gave me a suggested final torque of 80 IIRC. in any case, going in steps like that is certainly helpful, but primarily when doing them all at once with new gaskets, as you want to crush the gasket evenly, without putting any funny strain on the head in the process

 

There is no reason to un torque.

use arp lube and torque up to spec using the sequence. I've heard a bunch about this, so I decided to call arp directly who told me to sequence up once.

 

I totally disagree....

125lbs is the spec anyway, but the torque/release method is invented hearsay... You simply need to torque in steps, and it always helps on the last step to run through all the studs at 125ft/lbs (Or 80 for a 6.9, I prefer 100+ myself).... Undoing the nuts does absolutely nothing but put un-needed strain on your gaskets...

 

This......

 

Thank-you.

 

Thank you, all.

With so many threads on here I had not found that one. The un-torque and re-torque would be crazy with the one at a time, I'm glad to hear direct experience chime in. On the other hand it sounds like 3 of them will be some trouble for my case.

Am arguing with my buddy on the idea, it's at his shop. If I take this path I will update this thread with my results.

Thanks again,
- Jeff