Spark Knock in my Harley F150
#16
Hopefully with next paycheck I can afford to have our shop pull the spark plugs and see which 4 are prolly fried again.
I like your seafoam idea. I suggest people use it on the Bumpside board rather often.
Sea Foam can be added to the gas tank, crankcase, and through the brake booster vacuum line.
When you add it to your gas tank and crankcase, follow the directions on the can.
Here’s the process I used when I ran the Sea Foam through my brake booster vacuum line:
I ran the Sea Foam through my BBVL (brake booster vacuum line) twice.
After you disconnect the BBVL from the master cylinder, control the vacuum intake of air with your thumb to keep your engine from dying.
For me, I cut off the bottom of an Aquafina water bottle and used it as a cup. It was easier for me to handle, it allowed me to have direct control over how much fluid was being sucked up by the vacuum line, and it was easier to measure out 1/3 of the can.
After removing the BBVL hose, put the opening of the vacuum line near the surface of the liquid and the vacuum will suck up the Sea Foam. Per the directions, you should use 1/3 of the can of Sea Foam.
Add the Sea Foam carefully because I've read there is a danger of hydrolocking the engine if you just stick the vacuum line into the Sea Foam liquid.
I waited 5 minutes before starting my engine, like the directions said to do. It’s my understanding you wait so the Sea Foam can break down the carbon deposits in the engine.
After I restarted my truck and did a couple WOT blasts down the road, I checked my oil separator and mixed in the oil/Sea Foam treatment, I found tiny granules of black things. Lacking any other information or evidence to the contrary, I concluded they were once part of the carbon deposits in my engine.
The next day, I did a second application of Sea Foam.
For this second time around, I waited 30 minutes before starting my engine. And oh, when you start your engine and blast it WOT, there's a glorious smoke bank left behind your truck! The smoke is not produced at Idle, it only comes out under hard acceleration.
My baby has over 100K on the odometer, so for my peace of mind, I changed the oil after the second application of Sea Foam. That's also when I added Sea Foam to the crankcase. I just put the Sea Foam in with the fresh oil. It's supposed to be like an additive, so you leave it in until the next oil change.
One last thing. For anyone running the Sea Foam through the brake booster vacuum line, if you have an oil separator, after your WOT blasts to "clear out the pipes", check, check, and recheck your oil separator several times.
This is very important!
The first time I ran it through the engine using my brake booster line, my oil separator filled up to halfway, after my WOT blast. It looked like a thick mix of the Sea Foam liquid and oil.
The second time I ran it through my engine, there was less oil mixed in with the Sea Foam, but this time it completely filled my oil separator! All the way to the top!
When you add it to your gas tank and crankcase, follow the directions on the can.
Here’s the process I used when I ran the Sea Foam through my brake booster vacuum line:
I ran the Sea Foam through my BBVL (brake booster vacuum line) twice.
After you disconnect the BBVL from the master cylinder, control the vacuum intake of air with your thumb to keep your engine from dying.
For me, I cut off the bottom of an Aquafina water bottle and used it as a cup. It was easier for me to handle, it allowed me to have direct control over how much fluid was being sucked up by the vacuum line, and it was easier to measure out 1/3 of the can.
After removing the BBVL hose, put the opening of the vacuum line near the surface of the liquid and the vacuum will suck up the Sea Foam. Per the directions, you should use 1/3 of the can of Sea Foam.
Add the Sea Foam carefully because I've read there is a danger of hydrolocking the engine if you just stick the vacuum line into the Sea Foam liquid.
I waited 5 minutes before starting my engine, like the directions said to do. It’s my understanding you wait so the Sea Foam can break down the carbon deposits in the engine.
After I restarted my truck and did a couple WOT blasts down the road, I checked my oil separator and mixed in the oil/Sea Foam treatment, I found tiny granules of black things. Lacking any other information or evidence to the contrary, I concluded they were once part of the carbon deposits in my engine.
The next day, I did a second application of Sea Foam.
For this second time around, I waited 30 minutes before starting my engine. And oh, when you start your engine and blast it WOT, there's a glorious smoke bank left behind your truck! The smoke is not produced at Idle, it only comes out under hard acceleration.
My baby has over 100K on the odometer, so for my peace of mind, I changed the oil after the second application of Sea Foam. That's also when I added Sea Foam to the crankcase. I just put the Sea Foam in with the fresh oil. It's supposed to be like an additive, so you leave it in until the next oil change.
One last thing. For anyone running the Sea Foam through the brake booster vacuum line, if you have an oil separator, after your WOT blasts to "clear out the pipes", check, check, and recheck your oil separator several times.
This is very important!
The first time I ran it through the engine using my brake booster line, my oil separator filled up to halfway, after my WOT blast. It looked like a thick mix of the Sea Foam liquid and oil.
The second time I ran it through my engine, there was less oil mixed in with the Sea Foam, but this time it completely filled my oil separator! All the way to the top!
Last edited by Stewart_H; 02-27-2015 at 12:20 AM.
#17
Thanks Stewart. Good info here. Copper plugs better than factory for my 12# boost. I didn't even know Ford made a copper plug that cold. I drive 31 miles each way back and forth to work via Expressway so carbon build up shouldn't be an issue but I'm gonna keep this in the ol' memory banks. Those motorcraft coppers will be installed soon. Thanks again Buddy.
#18
Questions coming to my mind here; I do not think that 5.4L SC engines have a knock sensor, so detonation can occur and WILL cause damage. Secondly, trucks with 5.4L SC engines have two fuel pumps, when one fails, it can cause lean conditions under load and thus detonation. Depending on how your recal was done, lean operation codes may not trigger in memory. Just some thoughts.
#19
Questions coming to my mind here; I do not think that 5.4L SC engines have a knock sensor, so detonation can occur and WILL cause damage. Secondly, trucks with 5.4L SC engines have two fuel pumps, when one fails, it can cause lean conditions under load and thus detonation. Depending on how your recal was done, lean operation codes may not trigger in memory. Just some thoughts.
There was a recall on these that I was not notified? I've owned it since about 2006/07. On the fuel pump that is a darn good question. I knew the lightnings came with a dual in tank pump. I didn't know the Harleys did also. In running my Vin you are correct. It's the same. I will check in to that. Thanks again.
#20
update.
Had a set of Motorcraft AWSF12C's put in. This time 7 of the plugs were OK and #2 plug not so good. Now my idle is not smooth. Especially sitting at a light after getting off the freeway. It'll idle fine for about 10 seconds then slowly get worse like the injectors got lazy. It's pretty much OK when I drive short distances. Mainly has the problems after I've driven for a while. Like something electrical is getting hot over time. Gonna check grounds and vacuum leaks when I get a chance. But I'm leaning towards the in-tank pumps as noted above being part of it.
#22
I had a tech here at the Ford dealer I am a parts man at change the plugs. He asked for new boots but no COP. Last time I had the plugs changed 4 of them were fried. No ground electrode left. That tech didn't tell me about it 'till I asked for the old plugs days later. I never found out which 4 cylinders fried the plugs. Wish he could have told me. This time only #2 cyl.
#23
No more spark knock
Well guys, got that problem solved but another crept up. Lately when idling for a little bit it starts to miss. Steadily getting worse the longer it idles. In Park or Drive with foot on the pedal. So I figured the EGR valve was not shutting all the way. Replaced it with Genuine Ford one. That solved the spark knock problem but not the miss when idling. Note, I noticed when it is idling bad it is real LEAN. The exhaust smells like Hot Air, not exhaust. I also noticed it doesn't do this when I now have the A/C on. I'm thinkin' it's the IAC. I have been a tad lax on cleaning my air filter the last couple of times. Shame on me. If anybody should know better it's me.
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