Glad I live in southern VA!!

 

You act like that's such a setback. If you like wrenching on them, then you're already keeping the engines running clean, even on older vehicles. Consequently, they'd pass emissions with flying colours.

 

Alright. Thanks for all comments on my saga. I drove the truck on highway, accelerate & maintain speed above 45mph for more than 10min. Just recently, I started the truck, and let it idle in the driveway for 5min to read the engine parameters. An error code just pops up, it's P0385 (Crankshaft position sensor B circuit malfunction). And still the Cat, HO2 sensors, O2 sensors, and EGR are still not ready ("in-conclusive" is the term).

My question now is, if I clear the P0385, will that require the driving-cycle to start all over again?

At this point, I just want to get it ready & pass the emission test. Once I got the tag, then I can do the tuneup, which may require to unplug the battery, which will require the driving cycle again.

Thanks, for all of your comments. I really appreciated.

 

This is true to a point. You have to pay for state inspections thus, I'm sure you will pay for an emissions inspection as well meaning more money out of my pocket for pointless B.S. I yanked all the emissions crap off my 1990 model because all it does is rob power from the engine. Vehicles used to run better and have more power before manufacturers and the government choked them down with EGRs, A.I.R.s, SMOG pumps, cats, etc.

Another thought: The biggest problem with the 6.0L Powerstroke was the EGR. If you deleted the EGR it ran better and you didn't have any issues. But if you lived in NoVa, you couldn't do that because then it wouldn't pass emissions.

 

Last night, I attempted to complete the driving cycle for the truck, but after letting it idle for 10sec, the error code P0385 (missed fire?) came up.

So, I think I will have to do a tune up, or regular maintenance first, getting it running smooth before doing the emissions test. What's your inputs on this plan?

Following Hutch17 suggestions, I plan to replace the plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap, point, fuel & air filters, PVC, and oil change. Anything else?

Also, any recommendations on plugs/wires? Since I am on the penny pinching side and don't plan to make it a high-performance truck, so ... please recommend something that I can afford. Much appreciated.

 

I would flush the radiator while you're at it. Doesn't take that long and since you just bought the truck, who knows when or if it's ever been done.

 

Congrats on the new truck but not on your headaches with it. I read through that FoMoCo Driving Cycle and it seems like you haven't hit all of it yet to properly set all of the codes. You need to complete all steps (except the first one) three times before the driving cycle is complete.

If you are a penny pincher, I would inspect all of your components before just replacing them. If your cap and rotor look to be in good shape with no cracks, don't have scale built up on the tower contacts and rotor, the center spring post on the inside of the cap doesn't have a ton of black powder around it (carbon), I'd say they are good to go. If your wires don't have any burned through spots, aren't arcing, aren't full of corrosion on the contacts, and ohm out properly, they are good to go as well. You should replace your air filter, especially if it doesn't look brand new and replace your fuel filter regardless. If you have to replace your cap, rotor, and wires, stock is always best but pricey. Don't buy the cheapest wire set, buy the best cap and rotor you can, and stick with your recommended stock plugs as they are pretty decent. If you decided to "upgrade" your plugs, you could install "copper core" plugs instead of the factory equipped platinum plugs. Coppers are cheaper but they don't last as long (at least a year or more, depending on your mileage, though). PCV valves are cheap, but many aftermarket models are poorly made compared to factory and PCV valves rarely go bad - they just get dirty and need to be cleaned from time to time.

But remember, you need to check all of your grounds, your vacuum lines, look for vacuum leaks, and check your fuel pressure regulator as Conanski suggested. Once you have done all of these things, then I would clear your PCM codes again and start the driving cycle over again. The devil is in the details and this cycle has a lot of details.

Good luck and let us know what you find!

P.S. You never did tell us what engine you have. You might consider adding this information to your profile and/or signature line so others know without you having to type it every time.

 

Always buy a premium wire set when living in an emissions testing area. It prevents cross firing and keeps it from getting a miss. The plugs can be anything you want except ac delco and ngk. Autolite copper or motorcraft is my choice, but others work well. Don't waste your money on anything g more than 2.50 each because these motors see zero gains.
Cap and rotor is a controversial topic to some. The alum contacts last a while but don't conduct as well as copper or brass. I still say get a quality piece without aluminum contacts though. Pcv valve is often overlooked. Ignition coil should be of premium quality but you don't need an accel or msd coil. I prefer msd but its not cheap.

 

Motorcraft sparkplugs and wires work like a charm in these trucks, mine have over 30k miles since I replaced them and they've been great.