Linked 98 f150 Build
#17
and the reason is because it defeats the whole damn purpose of linking suspension.
with a properly setup 4 link street stability will only be an issue if you use a really low pound per inch rate spring.
i don't want to be a dick to the new guy so can someone that's better with not being a dick explain to him what i'm getting at. i'm tired, sober, and grumpy.
with a properly setup 4 link street stability will only be an issue if you use a really low pound per inch rate spring.
i don't want to be a dick to the new guy so can someone that's better with not being a dick explain to him what i'm getting at. i'm tired, sober, and grumpy.
#19
#20
better than i would've done.
if you use bushings there will literally only be as much twist or side to side flex as the bushings will give and after a few times those bushings will be toast. you would be more or less limiting the rear to up and down travel only. not a good idea. it's like a radius arm setup but with even less movement because both ends are bushing mount instead of one end being stud mount.
if you use bushings there will literally only be as much twist or side to side flex as the bushings will give and after a few times those bushings will be toast. you would be more or less limiting the rear to up and down travel only. not a good idea. it's like a radius arm setup but with even less movement because both ends are bushing mount instead of one end being stud mount.
#21
Actually worse.....
On a 3 link deal, its OK(actually preferred on a non- flexyflexy) to have a bushing joint at the axle and a damn good joint at the frame.
On a 4 link deal (especially rear) you need side to side movement (Dan the man Brittingham) in addition to up down movement. That kills bushings. Stock type cars and low riders get away with it because their suspension moves a couple of inches rather than a foot or more like even the stiffest 4 link on 38s will do.
On a 3 link deal, its OK(actually preferred on a non- flexyflexy) to have a bushing joint at the axle and a damn good joint at the frame.
On a 4 link deal (especially rear) you need side to side movement (Dan the man Brittingham) in addition to up down movement. That kills bushings. Stock type cars and low riders get away with it because their suspension moves a couple of inches rather than a foot or more like even the stiffest 4 link on 38s will do.
#23
#25
Look at Ballistic....
Forged Ballistic Joints & Bushings
The 2.63" poly bushing joints are beefy as hell...especially with a 1.25" shank and a 3/4" through bolt. Id use those on the axle end and the forged joints on the frame side.
Forged Ballistic Joints & Bushings
The 2.63" poly bushing joints are beefy as hell...especially with a 1.25" shank and a 3/4" through bolt. Id use those on the axle end and the forged joints on the frame side.
#28
well i got these trail gear creeper joints same idea as the ballistic ones you linked me to
Toyota, Suzuki Samurai, and Jeep Off Road Parts
but i flexxed the dirty ferd with the fork truck today and i do see what you guys are saying. and i do agree its needs a ball style joint on the frame end. so they got ordered.
Toyota, Suzuki Samurai, and Jeep Off Road Parts
but i flexxed the dirty ferd with the fork truck today and i do see what you guys are saying. and i do agree its needs a ball style joint on the frame end. so they got ordered.
#29