Need some insight on getting the warps out of a flat panel repair.
replaced the bottom 4" of a door skin and had to replace a 4x8 in. section in the center of the same door. I skipped back and forth across the butt seam so as not to over heat a particular area. On any of the curved or crown areas prviously welded the shape of the metal has not had the same result. The only thing I can think to do either planish the welds or cut it all out and start over and maybe backing up the edges of the seams with a strape of 1/8" steel tacked on to help hold the shape. Any insight on the would be greatly appreciacted.
Without pics it's a little tuff, but, you can cut (with a blade or cutting wheel) the edge of the panel where the warping is...probably on two planes/edges...so these can act as a relief cut to allow the panel to return to its original shape (caused by the metal expanding under heat)....then instead of welding, braze it back...1/2 the heat more than adequate strength.
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
unfortunately I'm a bit on the short end to buy a welding rig any time soon. I'm bumbling along with a cheesy harbor freight flux core welder. Over time I've gotten fairly adequate with it but your right its much hotted than oxy-acetylene
and with only 2 voltage settings you learn to play games with the feed rate and wire gauge.
Today I planished the seams hammer on dolly and it's getting better. I hit the ridge from the inside with a bead and it shrunk it down far enough I could work it with a pick hammer off dolly ever so gently. I still have a bit of tin canning but some of it will be hidden behind the licence plate presuming I can recreate the door mounted tag lamp assembly.
But thanks for the tip I may throw the gas tank back in it and run it down to the
shop I wright service at and try it on the side patches I was going to cut them out and start over but this sounds like it's worth try.
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