Hello folks,

Question about the shifter linkage on a 1992 f150 with a E4OD not cranking in park or going into 2nd gear with out some extra upward movement of the shifter.

Details of problem:

-At first the Transmission would not go into 2nd gear when manually shifting from 1st to 2nd with out slightly almost putting it into drive. "When I put it in 2nd I can feel where the shifter goes when it hits the 2nd gear slot but it would not go into 2nd gear." I would have to slide it out of the 2nd gear slot about half way till it almost went into the drive slot then lowered it back to 2nd gear slot....

-Now recently the transmission is having difficulty starting when in the park position..."Sometimes it starts sometimes it don't." When this happens I have to do the same procedure as if I was wanting to put the transmission in 2nd gear. I would have to lift up further on the shifter and kind of wiggle it.

Would this sound like a linkage problem, Neutral Safety switch, the internal shaft that goes into the transmission or the Shaft that goes to the steering column?

What I have checked:

- I took the dash apart to make sure all the screws were tight. I noticed there is still a little slop where the shifter meets the mounting bracket. "Not sure if that's normal."

No other problems found that I can diagnose. Any ideas?

Thanks

 

to help you figure it out,unhook the shift cable (down at trans shift linkage) with the trans in park and see if the truck starts without issue.block the wheels and set the e-brake and shift the linkage by hand to insure all the indents are good,and place in N and see if it starts easy then as well.you'll figure out what's going on quick enough.

 

I had the exact same issue and its not linkage, but the clamps that hold the shifter column in place on top of the steering column.

There are 2 cast aluminum upside down U shaped clamps with plastic inserts (bushings) inside. The plastic bushings had worn and created "slop" in the shifter. After awhile I only had D,N,R. That was it. The bushings came apart and fell out. Then one of the clamps broke in half.

IIRC the clamps were $21 a piece and the plastic bushings were $14 each, dealer only.

Being cheap, broke, and inventive I fabricated a new clamp using the one good one as a template. I then used some very thin plastic tubing of the correct thickness the make new bushings.

The originals were split straight across to get them around the shifter column but I split mine diagonally. Make them about an eighth of an inch wider than the clamps and slightly heat one end to create a wider rim around one end to keep it from sliding out.

When you get a look at the original you'll see what you need to do.

Put everything back together and use a tiny mount of lithium grease or anti-cease in between the clamps and bushings.

Use a Haynes manual if your not familiar with dropping the steering column, dash and cluster.

Mine's now good as new and tight as factory specs. So far it's lasted almost 2 years of daily driving.

Good luck!

PS; I used to have pics of the process but they were on an old phone that no longer works, sorry.

 

You might need to check and replace the transmission selector sensor on the transmission. Check codes, if it tells you it is not in park when it is in park the computer does not know what gear the selector is in. It can cause problems starting in park, and hard shifting between gears.

 

Thanks for all the information....

Today I went to have the tires balanced. When the technician pulled the vehicle into the shop and turned the truck off, he got out of my truck and i noticed it started to roll backwards like it was not going into park.....Later on that day I got home and yep it did not go into park. Ill have to start replacing parts to get that fixed ASAP.

 

I can tell the bushings are worn out just by the gap in between the brackets and the bushings with out even removing them.

 

ford shifter parts | Steering Column Services

 

You need to check these two screws, common problem.


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I did a test on the EEC and looks like im also getting a code 628 Converter clutch Lock-Up error (E4OD)

Some suggested tests:
1) Check the accuracy of your speedometer/odometer against a measured course. A bad VSS could manifest itself as inaccurate speed inputs. It will also throw off your gas mileage calculations. And it may cause this code.

My speedometer starts to bounce once over 45 mph. I replaced the VSS sensor and that made it worse so I put the old one back in. My tachometer does not go past 2100 RPM so i think I have an issue with the speedometer...or a wire that goes to the VSS. Im not sure...I will read up on this issue some more.

2) Clear the continuous memory codes (by removing the jumper or disconnecting the battery). Run the KOEO test again. If code 628 immediately comes back, you will need to troubleshoot the CCS circuit. It's a fairly simple thing to troubleshoot, at least in theory. Fixing it will improve your gas mileage. You should actually hope this is the reason for the code, compared to item 3).

3) If the code 628 only comes back after driving for a while, determine whether you are experience torque converter "shudder". This is felt as a vibration similar to freeway rumble strips, under slight throttle pressure, in top gear, between about 35 and 55 MPH. Shudder is a common E40D malady. Sometimes a trans fluid change will improve it, sometimes additives will improve it, but often the only cure is replacing the torque converter. Doing so will clear up the shudder (and the code), but may not make much difference in your gas mileage. I do not have this problem even if I do 80mph.


I do have a firm shift from 1st to 2nd but that is how it has always been since the transmission was rebuilt a few years back. The truck runs and shifts good in my opinion. Although, the transmission does not stay revved up like my fathers AoD in his 2000 f150. But when I have the A/C on it does stay revved up longer..The vehicle coasts better with A/C on...With the A/C off it just decelerates till the speedometer reads about 20-30 mph then it coasts like my fathers. I do have 4:10 gears in the rear end...I think that might be caused of the higher RPM I am doing at higher speeds. Once it reaches lower RPM range it coasts.

 

I ordered the shift tube bushings from O'Reilly Auto Parts. They should arrive tomorrow. I will let you guys know if this fixes the the slop in the shifter and the issue that prevents the transmission from going into park and finding first and 2nd gear when manually shifting. If the bushings do not fix the issue I will purchase the shift tube and plunger assembly...I will find out when I take the steering column apart on my next day off from work in about 6 days.

List: Shift Tube - 1992 Ford F-150 | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

Well, I had time to work on my truck today.

Lowered the steering column down were I could get to the bushings and I noticed that one of the bushings was so worn out that it was not even bolted down under the C-Clamp that's suppose to hold it down.. The bushing just slid out from under it.

SO, I replaced both bushings that made the steering column a-lot less sloppy but I still have that problem with me having to push up on the shifter past park to think that the tranny is in park to crank it/.

I have not drove it yet so I will drive it tomorrow to see if I can manually shift 1st to 2nd with out having to push the shifter past 2nd almost into drive to get it to shift into 2nd.....I have not replaced the shift tube.....Wonder if that is the problem or the transmission itself?

 

the issue now sounds like the shift cable.the adjustment is down by the trans.you'll see the shift cable bracket by the shift linkage(and mlps) on the trans.look closely and you'll see how to adjust it.get it right and you'll be able to start it easily in P and be able to manually shift all the way down to 1st easily.
keep going.your getting there.

 

I followed the shift cable down to the transmission all the way till it goes to the neutral safety switch that bolts into the transmission. Were about is the adjustment at? I looked at it about a week ago and did not notice any thing in particular that looks like an adjustment sleeve.

Okay after doing some research here is what I found:

CAUTION: Under no circumstances should the cable be adjusted in any position other than D (drive) for the C6 transmission (7003) or (D) (overdrive) for the E4OD transmission.

1. From inside the vehicle, place the transmission range selector lever in the DRIVE position (C6) or the OVERDRIVE position (4R70W and E4OD). Hang an improvised three-pound weight (#1) on the transmission range selector lever (#2).
2. Raise vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle.
3. Remove the shift cable (#5) from the transmission lever ball stud.
4. Pull down the lock tab on the shift cable body.
5. Position the transmission range selector lever (#2) in the DRIVE position (C6) or the OVERDRIVE position (E4OD). This is three detents from the front-most lever position with the first position counting as one.
6. Connect the cable end fitting to the transmission lever ball stud.
7. Push up on the lock tab to lock the cable in the correctly adjusted position.
8. Remove safety stands and lower vehicle from hoist. Remove the three-pound weight from the transmission range selector lever.
9. After making the adjustment, check for park engagement. Check the transmission range selector lever in all detent positions with the engine (6007) running to make sure correct

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/434182_1

I think i will just take the easy way and loosen some bolts and move it around a tad bit till I get it right. Cant be that hard...or can it?

 

It can be annoying, yes.

 

yeah it can be pretty tricky.you really need two guys.you remove the plastic clip and slide the cable a bit,then place it back in and ask the operator to shift (trig the wheels.be safe.)until you get it right on the money.it's not real bad,but it can be a pain.take your time to get it right.
i recently went all through this stuff myself because my cable was just worn out and i had to replace it.it's a real bugger to fish the new cable up behind the e-brake if you need a new one! oh man.