How long should an ip last running wmo? I have been running 3 gallons of used motor oil to 1 gallon of heating oil. Approx. 20k on rebuilt IP and I think it is done. Truck overall has lose of power. every 5 miles or so it will act as if it has no fuel, last about 5 seconds. then comes back to life and runs fine for the next couple. If I really get on it, the truck will almost instantly die and stall if I am not in gear. I replaced the mechanical lift pump less than 8k miles ago. Tested it and it is shooting fuel to top of ip cover. I put on several used filters that I had and the truck still acted the same. Tomorrow I will try dieselkleening it. But I think the injection pump is shot.

 

Sounds like air might be causing the sputtering. But life of the pump depends on how many microns you filter to and how thick the WMO is. I was using really junky oil and my power and mpgs declined over the course of a year and a half significantly.

 

O sorry forgot to mention that. I filter through 2 10micron fuel filters from TSC twice. I was using a centrifuge but my motor is only 1/3 hp and it got burned up, so waiting on finding a good replacement

 

Its not the WMO but the heating oil thats killing you. I was running 50/50 WMO #2 diesel just fine. Your combination has no lube, and im guessing is a little thick. Whenever i went over 50/50 i noticed a pretty decent increase in smoke and decrease in power. Optimal seemed to be around 30% oil 70% diesel, thats where it felt strongest, burned cleanest and had best MPG.

FWIW, i ran 50/50 #1 and #2 and it wiped my pump in like 5k miles.

 

Man I realize everybody isn't rich like my ***... but WTF is the point... You guys apparently get something I don't... ??

 

Im not running WMO but I can see the appeal, couple hundred per tank vs free sounds like a pretty good deal to me, even if you factor in a IP every 20k miles.

 

I do landscaping and haul firewood so saving 12 gallons of fuel per tank adds up really quick. I will probably drive 15-20k miles this year with my truck. I still get 14-15mpg with 4.10 and 5 speed. Rebuilt injection pumps are 350 and used ones are 150 and I can change them in less than an hour so its not that big of a deal. Who wouldnt want to save around 4k a year by running used motor oil?

 

Turns out it is not the injection pump. Started cracking injectors to see how much it is pumping to injectors. Same amount it was whenever I first installed it. I took it for a drive on my rear tank(straight diesel) and it was running fine no bucking or trying to stall. switched to my front tank not even 5 seconds later it bogs down and slows to creep then stalls out. I switched to rear tank after cranking for some time and it started back up and ran fine. Did same thing on way home and it started sputtering again. Front tank was just above 1/4 so i thought maybe the pickup broke off. I've always been able to run it to E before this. When I pulled in it started coughing like it was running out of fuel, so I filled it up to half and it stopped coughing. Took it for a drive and it did the same thing as before, so something must be blocking the fuel from the front tank. either pickup or maybe something in transfer switch. I have a spare tank that works fine besides the gauge doesnt work. Will throw that one on along with new return lines and o-rings for my injectors because I do get some air leaks from them.

 

On a tangential topic, you should be filtering down to 1 micron. 10 micron particles are pretty big for any Diesel system.

 

But more on topic, I don't think your IP is bad. I agree with the other poster, that said you have air intrusion. If I were you, I would install a clear section to see if you have air bubbles in your system. And since you are getting problems with both tanks, I'm willing to bet it's a break somewhere in the selector valve or hoses up to your mechanical pump.

 

My truck will run fine on the second tank now. I cracked several injector lines and there wasnt to much air in the lines. But the truck will run on front but has the problems I described. The factory filter is only around 15 micron. But varies depending on what brand you use. Im using a Hastings with the water drain and solid bottom. Where can I buy a fuel filter or what can I use to filter down to 1 micron?

 

I was talking about how you filter it prior to pouring it into the tank, but since we are on the topic of alternative fuel on-board filters....

First off, I'm personally not running WMO. I could do it, but I don't. I'm currently running a 2-tank aluminum WVO system, so I'd assume the desired filtration values should be similar. I can't remember where, but I remember reading that you should filter your fuel (regardless of what type) down to 1 micron, to ensure the longevity of your Diesel fuel system and engine.

when preparing my fuel, i have three filters in-line. one at 20 microns, one at 10 microns and one at 1 micron. From your post, it seems like you are not filtering your WMO, which must be me misunderstanding. But if you aren't filtering your WMO, you might want to consider starting. My filters are from Northern tool and are disassemble-able and whatnot. Pretty straighforward.

As for on-board.... Now there are some people that think running the stock filter is OK, which for WVO is a huge no-no. As for WMO, I guess it should be fine, but like you say, the stock filter only goes to 15microns, and i bet that is on the good side. However, to make sure, you might want to put a new filter head and bring it down a notch. I have a pusher pump for my WVO that filters thru a heated filterhead and a Baldwin 3-micron filter, bypassing the stock filter system entirely. Frankly the stock filter system on these IDI's are crappy design. To drain it, it pees all over the top of the engine (unless you build a tiny funnel with an extender tube to a bucket underneath), and it pees everywhere when you pull the filter off the filter head. And the filter head is in the way of everything in my van under the hood, but maybe this isn't such a pain for you guys with trucks. Frankly, I think Ford should have installed a filter head somewhere near the front-bottom of the engine compartment (off so the side or fender wall) so that it's easier to get to and doesn't drain on the engine. My auxiliary filterhead is installed under the van, and it's super easy to access, replace, and maintain. crawl under, spin, and replace. that's it. and a simple drain pan to collect any spills, if any.

If you are going to try alternative fuels, my advice is to err on the side of caution, and invest some money to make sure your fuel is completely filtered and dewatered, both prior to dumping in the tank and on the way from the tank to the engine. Lots of people have tried to save a buck running these Diesels on these WMO and WVO fuels without doing the proper research and preparation, only to have their IP, injectors, and (worse) their engines fails, costing a lot more than the dozens of dollars they saves by not buying Diesel. Just my $0.02, though.

 

I stated earlier I filter through 2 10micron inline fuel filters twice before dumping fuel into tank. I also have a centrifuge that filters to a 1/2micron and removes all water and debris. Put I was in a pinch had to run the truck and my electric motor pushing the fuel for the centrifuge is wore out.

 

WMO provides no lube? I am not getting that.

 

I think he was talking about viscosity. without artificial heating, I'd assume WMO is too thick to be running thru the fuel system at room temperature.