I read the buying a used 6.0L thread at the top, and most of the input seemed pretty general or '05/'06 specific. I'm looking into getting a 2003 6.0L (scary as it's the first year they ran that engine). Anything I should know/pay extra close attention to?

He says the only major work done was the Turbo replaced back in '03 and the injectors last year. Used the truck to haul his fifth wheel down to mexico, truck rarely used in snow/adverse conditions. I do a decent amount of hauling as well as highway driving.

The truck has 182k miles on it and he's asking 9500.

Thanks in advance

 

These Guys might try to Beat me Up BUT

An 03 stock was the most reliable

Maybe that's not the best way to put it

less reliability mods Required for an 03




Get a gaue to check the trucks over

 

Is he the Original Owner? Is it a 4x4 Crew Cab? Lariat XLT or ? The thing I never like seeing is someone who towed heavy all the time. Pull the transmission dipstick and check for burnt smell. What's the Autocheck report or Vin check look like?

By the way, I have heard many people say the opposite of what blade says. You never know though. You could get an awesome '03 or a absolutely terrible '06. I would get a scan gauge II before buying it and check the EOT/ECT temperature difference, FICM (FMP and FLP) and the turbo using the VGT, Voltage Output (VLT). Take a voltmeter and check the batteries if possible. If I had to do it all over again, I would have done this scangauge with the truck I have. I haven't had any issues, but man, was it stressful just imagining the problems I could have had. Everything checked out on mine except the Alternator and all Fluids. Withouth the scangauge I'd still be driving around with a bad alternator and probably replacing all the batteries.

Knock off $1,000 for tires if they need replacing immediately, $100 for each battery, $150 for the alternator etc, $50 for a belt, etc etc. I paid rough trade in value for my truck and most of the guys selling these trucks think they are worth retail!

 

All models: Check the EOT and ECT difference. Should be less than 15 degrees F.

On the 03 model: The HPOP on the 03 and 04 were not as good as on the 05 and up. At 182K miles, if it has not had the HPOP replaced, it will likely need it in the next 50k miles.

As blade said, the 03 doesn't have the dummy plug, standpipe, and STC connection issue that ALL the 05 ups will have. Although more troublesome, the parts and repairs for these three issues are much less expensive than a HPOP for the 03.

Is it 4x4 and crew cab? That's about the goind rate for top quality 6.0s in my market with 4x4 and crew.

For $7,500 I got an 04 with 220k miles, 4x4, crew with a great body. I think that's rough trade in. New HPOP and oil cooler and EGR delete 9 months before I bought it. It had a cracked radiator and needed an altenator when I bought it. I checked my EOT and ECT delta after purchase and I was running 30 degrees. I had to put another oil cooler in it becaue the coolant system was not flushed (it appeared it wasn't flushed at all) when the oil cooler was done. I've got photos of the oil cooler that show 1/2" of oily crude at the base of the oil cooler coolant inlet. I'll post them eventually.

So for the price, I can't compain. But I looked for at least 6 months.

 

Before going on the test drive, pick up a scangauge II from autozone or amazon. This little guage will tell you everything you need to know about the truck and then some.

Generally, you'll find that most trucks don't have any potential issues, but here are a few things to look out for:

-Make sure they aren't running green coolant in the degas bottle. Green coolant is not good and not designed for the 6.0. Green coolant has silicate drop out which will clog the oil cooler, restricting flow of coolant to the EGR cooler, and cause a deadly and expensive chain reaction that will eventually lead to a hydrolocked engine and very possibly blown head gaskets.

-Make sure when you get there, that the truck is stone cold. You want the truck cold so you can listen to the cold start. The cold start will tell you if you have a bad injector or two laying around that may either need to be treated with RevX or replaced.

-Look below the truck and check for any oil leaks. A popular leak is the bedplate leak that makes itself obvious on (I believe) the oil pan of the engine. This is an expensive repair as the engine must be removed to fix the leaking seal

-Another popular place for and oil leak is the bellhousing where the engine connects to the transmission. Not sure of the repair on this one, but it's a slow leak that will eventually require attention.

-Make sure the previous owner used motorcraft filters. This can be quickly checked by looking at and removing the top side oil and fuel filters. Aftermarket filters have been known to damage the engine due to the imitated OEM design.

An example and explanation:


-Using the scanguage, you want to monior the Engine Oil Tempurature (EOT) and Engine Coolant Tempurature (ECT) while driving. While maintaining speed and after the truck is fully warmed up, if you notice that the there is a 15 degree delta or more, the oil cooler and EGR cooler will need to be replaced.

-The scnaguage will also pull codes if theres anything out of whack.

-Check the 4wd....find a straight road and drive in 4wd high with the AC on, if it defaults to the defrost you need to either replace the lines or have some of the axle seals replaced.

Other than that, drive the truck and you'll know if something is up.

 

I agree and will stand with you on that.

 

Guys Don't get me Wrong

The 05+ Ends up being the Better One After the Reliability Mods are Done

I cant Argue with Stuff Like Bigger Water Pumps,Inject coating,HPOP, Stuff that's on 05+ and that's only the tip of the iceburg

But 2003 has a Bullet Proof EGR Cooler the Round one this Round EGR Cooler has saved lots of moters from catastrophic fail Alone

 

That EGR Cooler is a HUGE Player in all this

 

What he said, and the most bang for the buck. Besides a 3/4 ton 4x4 isn't supposed to have coil springs.

 

I would disagree and prefer the '05 and up IF your thinking crew cab and plan on towing a trailer. The tighter turning radius of the coil spring suspension is a big help if your backing a fifth wheel into a camp site or somthing like that.

More good info on buying used (if you haven't seen it)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...used-6-0l.html

 

And they will be stuff like this^^^Iv never thought about that as one of the deciding factor of Purchase before Rusty LOL

But Im talking Stuff that would put the truck out of commission

But that Campground Sign was Run over when we got there

 

Then you finish by saying: "I was just about to report that too!"

 

Nothing that a little practice backing won't solve. I pull a 30' 5th wheel with a 03 CC and have no problem putting it where I want it.

 

Rusty I got to take it Bake In fact My FOrd was the ONLY Auto that I thought about turn Radius before I bopught it

The work truck I dove OCC was a 7.3L Long Bed its Nickname waS THE sCHOOL BUS

Turn Radius was thrown out Before the Purchase of the truck All I saw was the Best Looking Truck out there sitting in front of me and hAD to have it

 

But you GUYS should list the ALL THE Changes

Were Not the Ones Buying the Truck will Let the Poster Decide

Have a Good Day Men Carrey On