66 F100 Manual steering binds
#1
66 F100 Manual steering binds
Guys, my 66 F100 3 on the tree with manual steering just started to bind up when I turn the wheel to the left. It binds and then bangs and then continues the turn. It sounds like the gears in the steering box aren't meshing correctly in that direction for some reason. Can you give me any advice on how to go about figuring out what is worn out or out of alignment? I've done a lot of wrenching on this old truck and mustangs but never messed with the steering.
Thanks in advance,
Rick
Thanks in advance,
Rick
#2
#3
The first place I'd look at is the "rag joint" - the flexible coupling that connects to the bottom of the steering shaft and to the gearbox. If that hasn't been replaced in a few years (or ever) that could be your problem. Also cheaper and easier to replace than the gearbox.
SuperSabre: Why are you missing the top front header bolt?
#4
Corey - aren't you the observant one? I could tell you I didn't put that header bolt in because it was only a test fit - which was true. However, if I have to own up it's because I snapped the #@%$& thing off while removing the OE manifolds. That one and two of its brothers (three all together). All on top. In spite of soaking in WD-40 for days, heating it until it turned red, etc. Sometimes you just can't get any cooperation!
#5
#6
Thanks for the tip. My rag joint is intact although not as clean and new like the one in your pic. How would the rag joint cause the binding? It would seem it would either work correctly or just break altogether? I'm not doubting you on this, I am just curious how to visually see if it is the rag joint that is causing the binding. I'm with you on the rag being a cheaper alternative than a gear box though. This problem has me concerned because as someone said a sagging cab can throw the geometry off and cause binding and my driver's side cab mount has needed to be replaced for a while. I really didn't want to tear into this project yet but I may not have a choice. More knuckle busting may be in order!
Rick
Rick
#7
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#8
#9
Rag joint won't cause the steering to bind up, neither will sagging cab mounts.
It's either suspension related (worn draglink and/or tie rod ends), and/or worn gearbox internal parts.
If there was a broken part inside the gearbox (highly unlikely), it wouldn't steer at all.
Left (upper) manual steering gearbox / Right: Front suspension: Draglink: 3304 / Left outer tie rod: 3A131 / Tie rod end: 3A130.
It's either suspension related (worn draglink and/or tie rod ends), and/or worn gearbox internal parts.
If there was a broken part inside the gearbox (highly unlikely), it wouldn't steer at all.
Left (upper) manual steering gearbox / Right: Front suspension: Draglink: 3304 / Left outer tie rod: 3A131 / Tie rod end: 3A130.
#10
I would certainly check out what Number Dummy said to check, but I can assure you from personal experience on my truck that a messed up "rag joint" AKA steering coupler, or misalignment of the box/coupler/shaft caused by cab mounts or some other reason can cause binding. If your rag joint looks to be in good shape, move on to some other cause, If it's old and torn, it could be binding up. Let us know what you find.
#11
What to do?
Had some time and a helper with me to watch as I turned the wheel. It turnes out that my cab mount on the driver side has rotted away to the point that basically the only thiing holding my cab up was the steering column. This was causing the binding. It happened over a gradualt time frame so I really hadn't noticed that the steering has gotten so difficult over time until the actual binding began. Anyway, once I raised the corner of the cab presto the steering became soo much easier. Comparatively it feels like power steering was installed! So I am at a decision time dilema. Do I take on this restoration project or sell it? I have some soul searching to do to come up with what I will do. The truck except for the cab mounts and typical radiator support rust is in incredibly good condition and has never been restored, motor rebuilt, or re-painted. it is a 352 3 on the tree LWB. It was a farm truck that didn't see much use. Speedo says 48K miles so I am guessing that is 148 but with the way the engine runs and the shape of the truck it would not surprise me to learn it is 48K actual miles. What would you do?
BTW thanks to all who chimed in to help me with this thread!
Rick
BTW thanks to all who chimed in to help me with this thread!
Rick
#12
rderr,
I'm at the same point with my truck. I wish there was a quick bandaid for this but i need floors as well. Just when i get it running to everyday driver status it needs more. I love the truck too much to let it go so it looks like this winter I'll be trying my hand at welding. Good luck with your decision and i hope it works out.
I'm at the same point with my truck. I wish there was a quick bandaid for this but i need floors as well. Just when i get it running to everyday driver status it needs more. I love the truck too much to let it go so it looks like this winter I'll be trying my hand at welding. Good luck with your decision and i hope it works out.
#13
Had some time and a helper with me to watch as I turned the wheel. It turnes out that my cab mount on the driver side has rotted away to the point that basically the only thiing holding my cab up was the steering column. This was causing the binding. It happened over a gradualt time frame so I really hadn't noticed that the steering has gotten so difficult over time until the actual binding began. Anyway, once I raised the corner of the cab presto the steering became soo much easier. Comparatively it feels like power steering was installed! So I am at a decision time dilema. Do I take on this restoration project or sell it? I have some soul searching to do to come up with what I will do. The truck except for the cab mounts and typical radiator support rust is in incredibly good condition and has never been restored, motor rebuilt, or re-painted. it is a 352 3 on the tree LWB. It was a farm truck that didn't see much use. Speedo says 48K miles so I am guessing that is 148 but with the way the engine runs and the shape of the truck it would not surprise me to learn it is 48K actual miles. What would you do?
BTW thanks to all who chimed in to help me with this thread!
Rick
BTW thanks to all who chimed in to help me with this thread!
Rick
Anyway. There are 3 questions at this point.
First, do you want to put the money into it? Pretty self explanatory. Whether you do the work, or someone else does it, its going to cost something.
Second, what other damage do you have? Look at floors, center cab support ends and anything else under the cab. Do they need help?
Third, can you do the work yourself? If you have a welder, a grinder, and some time, the front cab mounts are not hard to replace. The upside is you can save a bunch of cash, and you get to fix your own truck if your into that sort of thing.
#14
Made up my mind
Actually my wife helped me make up my mind. I am going to keep the truck and restore it. I have done a complete restoration on a 66 Mustang so I have some idea of what I am getting into. I will be doing all my own metal work and I think for the 1st time I want to try my hand at the paint and body side of the house as well. I'll be sure to keep you all posted (with pics) as I progress. My truck is really in great shape for an unrestored truck with the exceptions of just a few areas as noted above. I have already started soaking some bolts/nuts preparing for the tear down which should begin this weekend.
Rick
Rick
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