What is the best way to install a harmonic balancer? How far does the balancer go on the crankshaft?

 

Rent/temporarily buy installation tool from auto store. Do NOT try to use the bolt and washer or bang it on! If it is tight and you try to use the bolt and washer you can strip the threads. I have seen one loose enough that it slid about halfway on and then just banging it with you hand to get it all but the last 1/8 of an inch. If I got it that far I might try the bolt to get it the rest of the way if getting the tool was a problem.

It goes on till it bottoms out. You also need a bit of RTV sealer on the keyway so it does not leak.

 

I've never used an installation tool, in all my 40 years of wrenching. The crank bolt and washer work just fine. Put the balancer on as far as it'll go by hand, aligning the crank key to the balancer keyway, then tighten the bolt, finishing up by torquing it to spec. Never had one end up cockeyed, loose, nor leaking (due to not using sealer on the key.

 

Well I have seen one strip the threads in the crank, well actually just the aftermath. Apparently it was so tight it only went on far enough to get about 3/8th of an inch of the bolt into the crank. But like I said I have seen them go on easy too, but I in my younger days I did use a block of wood and a 4 pound helper, which I was later told is a no no.

If it is going on hard parting with a $20 bill for a few hours to get the tool seem like cheap insurance as does a dab of RTV.

I just got my engine back from the the machine shop. I noticed the end of the crank was knurled. Machinist said crank was sent out and the other shop said the end was undersized so they knurled it. The other shop said a lot of the SBF cranks were that way so they always check them. He said he never seen a problem with them though. I know it seem plenty tight when I pulled it from the crank. Don't know maybe a lot of them go on easy enough.

 

For the really tight balancers I've gotten longer bolts to draw them onto the crank snout. The longer bolt can reach deeper, and therefore engage more threads, than the stock length bolt when the balancer is sitting at the tip of the snout and just does not want to go on easy. That will reduce the chance of damaging the threads, and it's a lot cheaper than an installer, which will probably be doing the same thing. But I do agree on the dab of sealant; that's cheaper insurance that I learned from assembling other parts that have to provide a seal.

 

You can rent the install tool at autozone, etc. You basically buy the tool and return it when you are done and get your money back.

A longer bolt is a good ideal and then you don't have to mess with renting the tool. The HB installer I got from autozone last time is basically a threaded rod with a big nut and thick washer.

 

I use a little bit of oil on the bore and crank snout and bolt, to allow it to slip on easier and come off easier next time. I haven't noticed a problem with leaking, but if it is a worry then one could put a bit of sealer under the washer and bolt head.