Using a stain alone, especially in Texas will leave you refinishing it probably at least yearly. The stain will NOT protect the wood from moisture or UV rays. Stain soaks into the wood, but it does not seal it. Polyurethanes will help seal it, but they tend to yellow from the UV rays. Put several coats of a good varnish on the wood, if you expect it to see a lot of moisture I'd recommend a spar varnish.

 

No matter what you do to seal plywood, if it is exposed to the elements (like all the rain and humidity we get in TN and KY) the plys WILL separate. The Sikkens is what we use on log home interiors, you're right it won't help for UV, it also won't help for wood that is maintained in a horizontal position. Glaze coat is intended for interior use only, it is mostly used for bar tops.

 

Yes several coats of each, I did some reading on how different products holdup to constant exposure over a time graph off several years . I liked the results of the Pelucid for its ability to endure, then I used 6 coats of the Spar Urethane for protection of the Pelucid and ultraviolet protection. I cant remember whereI found the side by side exposure test of several products, maybe in Bob Drakes, I cant remember. One thing Is treat every surface, in any holes, heavy on the board ends, and don't forget the sides and undersides. I wanted shiny, but if you don't, there is a lot of support for using oils from guys on the forum. The only thing I would do differently would be to darken up the color by more coats of stain, on the bare red oak I used. I found the test that I referred to its at Mar-K the test started in 2005 and goes for 10 years, so you must click to the next test date and so on to see the effects over the whole ten year period. I should mention that my truck is garaged. good luck with what ever you decide to do. http://www.mar-k.com/wood_finish_testing_ii.aspx

 

Unfortunately, hardwood plywood is not made with exterior glue and is meant for furniture and indoor use, not exposed to the elements, plus the hardwood ply sold for <50.00 a sheet at the big box DIY stores, the face layer is about paper thin and is likely to get scratched and/or sanded thru before it even gets installed. Use only solid wood or marine grade plywood.

 

lilrobo:
Here's something you can use that I posted several times before:
OK, since you have made more than 10 posts, your pledging is over so now we can tell you how to use the secret handshake to get a lot more information. First, the advanced search function is your friend. To access it, look at the top of every page, right below the red white and blue FTE logo is a light blue band that starts with User CP in the middle is Search v click on it and choose Advanced Search from the bottom of the drop down box. The page that opens is the key to finding all the info you could want to know. Put in keyword(s) to search on, AXracer in the user name if you only want to see posts made by me
put in a date range if you don't (or do) want to see posts made 10 years ago, and finally and most importantly highlite this forum 1948-56 F100 and larger in where to search.
If you put in popular keywords (try "frame swap" or "Julie" if you are bored one weekend!) you will get dozens to hundreds of pages of posts on that topic.

Another good source of information can be found by clicking the ARTICLESv
tab (yes there are a lot of hidden tabs if you know where to look since they don't look like tabs) in the light grey bar just below the full color FTE logo and drill down the menus to find articles on popular topics such as a rear axle swap article: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...ial_Swaps.html , an article on installing Toyota PS box (by yours truly), installing the many possible IFS good and bad, etc etc etc.

 

The problem with the rock hard epoxy type products and using automotive clear is that this coating is not going on metal. Wood moves as the humidity changes and the result is cracking of the hard finishes. For my money the best bet is a good quality spar varnish like Epifanes or McCloskey's. Spar varnish is designed to NOT dry rock hard and retains some elasticity to accommodate the wood movement. The better ones also have good UV inhibitors. Unfortunately that usually imparts an amber color to the wood which probably wouldn't be too noticeable on walnut. It is important to cover all sides equally, including the ends. Start with a coat diluted 50% with mineral spirits, then the next coat diluted 25% , then 10% and finally undiluted. After 3 coats start wet sanding between coats with 600 grit paper. Use a minimum of 5 coats and it will last a good while however if exposed to the sun and rain, you'll need to recoat it every 3 years or so.'
Interesting to note that the original instructions that came for maintaining the finish on the Ford Wagons was to re-varnish them every 6 months! I know that didn't happen
Bill

 

Axracer never made the connection , thanks i will check it out

 

Lilrobo, and others who are relatively new to this forum (don't get me wrong, I'm not picking on anyone), realize it has been going on for about 2 decades, and what ever issues and questions you might have, it's very likely that others have run into the very same questions and issues before you and they have been asked and answered dozens to hundreds of times before. Those of us that have been around for an extended time really don't mind helping the newbees, but we have read or posted answers to the same questions over and over until we get bored or jaded or just tired of typing the same detailed info over and over, and feel there is little new or different we can say about it, sometimes forgetting that many are new and excited and may have never seen all the previous discussions and think they are the first ones to have run into their particular issue.
This place is an nearly unbelievable living compilation of extensive information and ideas about the building and enjoyment of our trucks, an encyclopedia of how tos and experiences. The only problem is there is no table of contents or general organization into topics like Wikipedia. The virtual index of sorts is the advanced search function. Try searching first to get a wider coverage of the topic, then asking specific questions will likely get you much more valuable specific information.

 

For ease of application and maintenance, it's hard to beat Sikkens "Cetol Marine" as an all weather finish for wood. It has the highest amount of UV inhibitors of any of the "Spar" varnishes out there. It has an amber color and gives a nice satin, hand rubbed look.
I have used it on kayaks, canoes, exterior doors, and anywhere that wood takes a beating. My front door is finished with 3 coats of "Cetol" full strength. and requires a re-coat every 5 years.
Though I'm a long way from doing my bed, I plan on using "Cetol Marine" over Black Oak.
I would be careful using cabinet grade walnut ply in anything exposed to the weather. You will have to seal all exposed edges and ends to prevent moisture from rushing into any unsealed end grain and causing eventual delamination.
Good Luck with your project.

 

On the advise of others on this site I used Spar Varnish. I believe I ended up with six coats on all sides. Note: If you want a flawless finish, keep the boards in a clean, dust free invironment. Good luck, Jag

 

thanks guys for the info ,,i do appreciate all the great info ,,i have a hard time making my mind up on anything i do ,, my family hates it , i cant even buy tickets at any event i am afraid of doing the wrong thing i want to do the right thing , i don't like making mistakes , i have taught my sons the same things ,, but anyway thanks i mean thanks really don't get me wrong at all ,,
i have heard more good things about the sikkens from many people so to me that says a lot , i wish i had boards but it was a gift from my sons so i cant look a gift horse in the mouth i guess ,,,
anyway i hope i can help new guys out 1 day like you all have helped me

 

I understand the difficulty associated with the gift, but using the plywood would be like wearing an expensive new suit that was two sizes too small or putting on a front fender from a chevy truck because it was a gift, just the fact. I would suggest each of you learn a life lesson bu explaining to your son how much you appreciate the thought and effort of his gift, and how he couldn't have possibly realized the problems with the plywood for this application and together go return the ply and use the money towards a solid walnut or other solid wood bed floor kit. If the ply can't be returned, and you have woodworking skills possibly you could make it into a beautiful book case for your truck book collection. There are SO many problems with this that it is just going to be a bigger disaster in a short while when it comes apart, NOTHING you can do will save it from destroying itself short of leaving it in the garage and never exposing it to the weather. Trust me, my Masters includes a minor in fine wood design, I do know what I'm talking about.

 

FYI- if you are near Versailles KY our church had a large black walnut tree go down and had it milled for a fund raiser- boards are 10 inches wide 10 feet long and I can find out the price if interested. I bought some a year or so ago and think it was about $3 a foot. All stored under a tarp with spacer boards every 18 inches or so --so it was stored correctly to naturally dry. Send me a PM if interested. Dave S

 

I think Ax is right. A wise texan once shared with me his theory of cry once. I have been mostly following his advise for about 25 years and it hasn't lead me astray yet. He said that all of your decisions will result in a certain amount of crying. His advise was to "Cry Once." If you buy quality, or make quality repairs, you will cry once at the outset because of the cost or the extra effort involved in the work. However, if you buy cheap or take short cuts in your work, then you will cry again and again and again each time the purchase fails you or the work needs further attention. So, why do the plywood bed when you know you will be dreading the inevitable failure and ultimate replacement with lumber? Every day you will look at it and wish that you had done it right the first time. Just skip the plywood step and go right to the lumber. By the way, "Cry Once" may just be the cure for your indecisiveness. When is dought, go quality and you will be happier for it. JMTCW Jag

 

That is a great price. How long has the wood been cut up? I cut up a black walnut tree that went down years ago, air dried it for 4 years, and built quite a bit of furniture with it. I wish I was closer...