I've not found any similar issue on the web/FTE - so I wanted to post to add to the knowledge base here on FTE.

After turning the key to "on" and while waiting for the Glow Plugs I'd activate the SG2 and monitor my FICM voltages.

My FLV was dropping from 11 to 0, and FMP was dropping from 48v all the way down to 0 BEFORE attempting to start. I would cycle the key off/on and repeat to monitor the FICM voltages until they were 12+/48 respectively and THEN I could start and the truck would run fine from then on.

Believed this was a FICM issue, so sent it to Ed @ ficmrepair and has the atlas40 upgrade as well. Well, problem remained. Ed gave me some things to check and they all checked out (batteries load tested, alternator).

Found a link to a ficm guide which showed a FICM power relay. And a lazy relay sounded exactly like my symptom.

http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...ficm_guide.pdf

Replaced the FICM Power Relay ($33 @ local Ford dealer) and my 6L hasn't had the problem return. And I have tried! I've cycled the key dozens of times and can't make it fail.. Previously, 2 in 3 attempts FAILED.

 

Dang Relays

Thanks for the Post

 

Original was made in Portugal - hope the new one from Mexico last longer

 

Better than form China.

Sean

 

Hey I did wonder if you ever watched FICM LP when this went on

Both those 2 Hots come off that Relay switch Leg

 

I did watch all 3 PIDs in the end, and my recollection is the FLP only dropped once or twice below 11.5 (even when FLV dropped to < 3). I suspect there is a capacitor that held voltage and when FLV dropped. I'm hoping to play with the bad relay and verify it won't stay closed when energized, since that is how it appeared to fail based on the FICM voltages.

The leason learned here was don't just monitor FMP - IF you have problem, since FLV controls FMP, and since the SG2 only had 4 values I didn't "know" I needed to watch FLV/FLP as well as FMP while I was troubleshooting - until I started working with Ed.

In hindsight, I think I was too excited to have it repaired by Ed along with the Atlas40 tune to focus on finding a relay

 

Did you ever try and start it when the readings were zero? I'm assuming that's how you got into the key cycling routine. If so, just a crank no-start would happen?

Is this relay under the hood? I'm thinking it's another thing to pull out if you wanted to keep the truck from starting...

 

When FLV dropped it would crank but not fire. I ONLY did this once, thereafter I began to watch the SG2 before trying to crank. I also had a small number of times where the voltages WERE good, and when I cranked as the engine began to catch it dropped back to just cranking and viola, the voltages dropped.

There is a tiny relay box (#5) driver side right next to the hinge, against the firewall. Not really easy to get a picture of - it's right were the "customer access wires" are taped to the harness, and next to the brake/power steering reservoir. It's a PITA to get the lid off of too. A long handled, small bladed flat screw driver was the ticket.

 

Exactly, you can pull the FICM relay as a theft deterrent, good idea if you're parking the truck for a couple weeks.

Josh

 

Thank you both -- I like the fact it's a bit tougher to get to. Now I'm wondering if the device I bought would go in that spot:

Cyclops No-Start Anti-Theft Relay System

Maker of that says to use it for the PCM relay, which is silly since it's right next to the steering wheel and there are several other relays one could swap (if they know what to look for) to get the truck to fire. This is sneakier, and I like sneaky

Of course all this should go in the other security thread Sean started...

 

just cut a spade off of f2 -22 your truck will be were you left it, unless they hook it away

 

I can sell you a "special" relay that will keep yoir vehicle from starting most of the time, no cutting of wires or using a special fuss required.

I would think hooking up a switched wire is way easier than opening the hood before you leave and then again when you return

 

U funny guy

the Cyclops is a wireless remote relay with a rolling code remote/receive. I don't have it in my hot little hands right now or I'd compare it to your relay picts. I do it's a pretty std. relay...

 

possibly but f2-22 is inside the truck

 

Thanks for the post! I am having the same issues with my truck....FMP would drop to zero. I'd cycle the key on and off a couple times and then it would start and run no problem. I was just about to order a new FICM but I knew to double check here first. Thanks for saving me the headache and cash!