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91 F-150 no overdrive at 65mph?

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  #16  
Old 08-26-2013, 09:35 PM
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Alright so while inspecting the vacuum port on the egr, I felt the hose wiggle and quickly realized it wasn't attached to the exhaust. So I welded a bung on there and connected it with some hose.

Now....I have a whole new set of codes. All related to EGR except the tranny code. Here they are as they are described in the book

327 - EGR valve position circuit below minimum voltage
332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected
337 - EGR sensor circuit above maximum voltage
628 - Excessive converter clutch slippage

So how do I go about having voltage that is both too high and too low at the same time?

Also, based on the code for the transmission, does that imply that the torque converter is bad? Or the clutches inside the transmission?
 
  #17  
Old 08-27-2013, 07:53 AM
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i would say that for the trans it means that the lockup clutch in the convertor is slipping
 
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:16 PM
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Based on the assumption that the converter clutch is slipping, what is the likelihood that I need to replace the converter? Or is it possible that the pump in the trans is bad?
 
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Old 09-01-2013, 10:36 PM
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Figured out the EGR problem. All those codes because the gasket was missing on the egr position sensor. No check engine light now.

Transmission is still not working correctly. I'm pretty sure it is either a bad torque converter or a bad front pump. However, I can't find one new locally. So, I'm trying to talk a guy from Craigslist out of his trans and torque converter from a 96. He has a complete motor, trans, transfer case set and doesn't want to split it up. Assuming I can talk him into it though, should I have any fitment issues from 91 to 96?
 
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:58 PM
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Truck made the 500 mile journey to get my old man home. Unfortunately, once home, it started taking a crap. He said it is chugging at low speeds, making metallic centrifugal noises. Says at highway speeds it sounds fine. So needless to say, it has been parked until he has the time and money to work on it.

He forgot to take my code reader, so I'll mail that to him. However, I'd like your opinions. Could the torque converter be causing his symptoms? I know we can't rule out u joints and such, but it just seems odd to me that the transmission would have these issues then it would do this.

Thanks guys for the continued support
 
  #21  
Old 09-23-2013, 10:58 PM
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My father got around to pulling the transmission out. Low funds meant he could only replace the converter. It had gone bad. That's what was making the metallic noises. However, it didn't fix the overdrive issue. Truck still won't shift into OD at highway speeds. So anyone have any thoughts?
 
  #22  
Old 09-24-2013, 07:15 AM
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Have you ever verified the TPS output signal?

For reference: Fuel Injection Technical Library » Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

Verify with the key On, engine off. Use a meter to verify the signal at closed throttle then slowly open the throttle all the way. Make sure the output is linear and comes close to the values listed at the URL above.
 
  #23  
Old 09-24-2013, 11:27 AM
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Was there metal particles in the converter/transmission oil? If so, you'll want to flush the entire transmission and all the cooler lines before running it again. Hopefully no other damage was done.

Ford recommends replacing all the oil coolers when you have a failure where there's debris in the system. Some folks try to flush them, but I wouldn't risk it.
Price of cooler < Price of another transmission/converter.
 
  #24  
Old 09-24-2013, 11:45 AM
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So while cruising on the highway, pushing the OD on/off button has no response from the transmission?

If that's the case, I'd suspect the MLPS (manual lever position sensor) on the side of the transmission probably needs to be adjusted and the throttle position sensor checked. The other thing, your engine speed at cruise will be higher if the converter is not properly locking.
 
  #25  
Old 09-24-2013, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rla2005
Have you ever verified the TPS output signal?

For reference: Fuel Injection Technical Library » Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

Verify with the key On, engine off. Use a meter to verify the signal at closed throttle then slowly open the throttle all the way. Make sure the output is linear and comes close to the values listed at the URL above.
I no longer have the truck. My father does and he is currently living in an extended stay in another state, so limited ability to work. I'll pass along the info though and see if he can check it.

Originally Posted by dixie460
Was there metal particles in the converter/transmission oil? If so, you'll want to flush the entire transmission and all the cooler lines before running it again. Hopefully no other damage was done.

Ford recommends replacing all the oil coolers when you have a failure where there's debris in the system. Some folks try to flush them, but I wouldn't risk it.
Price of cooler < Price of another transmission/converter.
I'll have to ask him. I have no idea if there was shavings in there.

Originally Posted by Lead Head
So while cruising on the highway, pushing the OD on/off button has no response from the transmission?

If that's the case, I'd suspect the MLPS (manual lever position sensor) on the side of the transmission probably needs to be adjusted and the throttle position sensor checked. The other thing, your engine speed at cruise will be higher if the converter is not properly locking.
Correct no response on the highway when pushing the button on and off. The truck was previously throwing a code for excessive converter clutch slippage. That, however was before the converter was replaced. I have the code reader here in NM and my father has the truck out in AZ with no way to read the codes to see if that code is still present.
 
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