MAF Cleaning

bkarr2000 · #1 (**permalink**) 05-04-2003, 11:12 PM

I'm just curious as to how to clean the MAF. My truck has just over 55,000 miles on it and the MAF has never been cleaned. It is probably time that I do so.

Bobby

Rockledge · #2 (**permalink**) 05-04-2003, 11:54 PM

The following procedure is adapted from a TRS Tech Article "Cleaning the MAF":

NOTE: Make sure the engine has been shut off (key off) for several hours before doing this... the MAF has a "hot-wire" design and a cold blast of cleaner may damage the wire.

1. Remove the negative cable from your battery;

2. Unplug the wiring harness clip from the MAF;

3. Remove the two security star-head screws and carefully remove the sensor. You will need a security star (size T15 or T20) torx bit;

4. You will see the two sensor filaments, they look almost like the filaments in a light bulb. Carefully spray the filaments with an O2 safe cleaner, and if available, a few careful blasts of compressed air.

5. While it is drying carefully wipe the aluminum mount surface of the MAF body if there is any dust there, but be careful not to get dust in the mount hole.

6. When the sensor is dry, replace the sensor back in the MAF body and secure with the security star-head screws. These don't need to be torqued down, just simply hand tight;

7. Plug back in the MAF wiring harness clip. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

This what the MAF looks like when you take it out (note the two filaments which you must be VERY careful with when cleaning):

bkarr2000 · #3 (**permalink**) 05-05-2003, 12:22 AM

Do you know where I could get the security star screw bit at?

Rockledge · #4 (**permalink**) 05-05-2003, 08:52 AM

Bobby,

Some guys have said that they found the security star bit at an auto parts store, and other guys said that they found the bit at an eletrical parts place. I personally had a tough time finding one myself, and I went to quite a few different places.

Since I couldn't locate one, here is what I did:

I took a Dremel tool and cut a slit through the head of the bolts so I could remove them with a regular screwdriver. Worked great. Then after I was done cleaning the MAF, I drove to the hardware store and found two exact replacement bolts, only with phillips heads, and two little lock washers. Now whenever I want access to the MAF I don't have to mess around with security star bits or anything else. I just pull out a screwdriver from my toolbox.

bkarr2000 · #5 (**permalink**) 05-05-2003, 10:11 PM

It took some time, but I got my screws off. I just worked a regular screwdriver into the one until it came off. The other one wasn't as easy so I drilled the head off of it. I cleaned the MAF and then put regular screws back on with lock washers. Thanks for the help.

Bobby

bassaway · #6 (**permalink**) 05-06-2003, 11:39 AM

Does anyone know where the MAF would be located on a '00 model 3.0L V-6? How easy is it to access? thanks...

Rockledge · #7 (**permalink**) 05-06-2003, 02:07 PM

Your MAF is installed in your air intake duct. The MAF housing is bolted to your air filter box. The MAF sensor, which is what gets cleaned, sits inside the MAF housing and is fastened to it with the two security star torx bolts.

bassaway · #8 (**permalink**) 05-21-2003, 10:45 AM

I recently cleaned my MAF sensor to get ride of some pinging ive been experiencing. Ive towed my boat a few times before i cleaned the sensor and those times my truck towed fine...very littel pinging. However, when i towed it last night it seamed like it didnt have as much power and pinged more than before. what could be the problem and could cleaning the MAF make the pinging worse???

saintthomas · #9 (**permalink**) 05-22-2003, 10:05 PM

You didn't break a filament did you? But that should cause a fault code. Any chance that dirt got into the intake when you had it open? I have also heard that excessive deposits can get into the intake after you clean it. They may sit there until forced out. Two suggestions to aid this would be a good fuel system treatment or rev the throttle in park a few good times adn blow it on out. Had a Toyota that I had to do that to every couple of months.

manirron · #10 (**permalink**) 06-25-2003, 02:21 PM

what should be used to clean the MAF?...alcohol or gunk remover or??

Rockledge · #11 (**permalink**) 06-25-2003, 04:36 PM

I used STP Air Intake/Throttle Body Cleaner, and several forced air bursts to clean up mine. (You can get a can of compressed air off the shelf for that).

Other people have used Gumout and had good results.

jbabbler · #12 (**permalink**) 06-27-2003, 11:44 AM

Bassaway, did you disconnect the negative battery lead? Many people think that this is a "safety" step and just ignore it. It is in fact as important as the actual cleaning. By removing the neg cable for 15 mins, the computer is reset and will not use old data tables based on the faulty info from th dirty MAF. The fact that your truck runs worse now may actually be a good indication that the MAF was extremely dirty before. I would repeat the process and make sure the computer gets reset. It needs to rebuild the data tables with good info.

FyreLyter · #13 (**permalink**) 07-24-2003, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jbabbler
Bassaway, did you disconnect the negative battery lead? Many people think that this is a "safety" step and just ignore it. It is in fact as important as the actual cleaning. By removing the neg cable for 15 mins, the computer is reset and will not use old data tables based on the faulty info from th dirty MAF. The fact that your truck runs worse now may actually be a good indication that the MAF was extremely dirty before. I would repeat the process and make sure the computer gets reset. It needs to rebuild the data tables with good info.

So...you need to have the cable off for 15 minutes to clear the computers memory?

also, I had a check engine light on, went to a mechanic, cuz I don't have a code reader yet, and they pulled up "idle control malfunction or something" po505...

Mecahnic cleaned the throttle body for me, cleaned the maf sensor, and still had problem code. finally replaced maf and worked great for about 4 hours, then the check engine light came back on? Why? any ideas? What is all entailed in the Idle control system that would need upkeep/fixing/replacing?

thanks

Rockledge · #14 (**permalink**) 07-25-2003, 12:08 AM

Quote:

So...you need to have the cable off for 15 minutes to clear the computers memory?

Yes, the cable from the NEGATIVE battery terminal should be disconnected at least 15-20 minutes to clear the code(s).

Ford says this about your code:

P0505 - Idle Air Control System Malfunction

The PCM attempts to control engine speed during KOER self-test. The test fails when the desired rpm could not be reached or controlled during the self-test.

Possible causes:

l IAC circuit open
l VPWR to IAC solenoid open
l IAC circuit shorted to PWR
l Air inlet is plugged
l Damaged IAC valve
l Damaged PCM

Based on that, it sounds like your Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) is out of whack. Tell your mechanic to check it. (FWIW, I just replaced mine on my 4.0L about 6 months ago).

FyreLyter · #15 (**permalink**) 07-25-2003, 12:15 AM

KOER is key on engine running, right? The computer does this everytime it starts up?

My truck runs great now that the new maf is in.

oh yeah, what does the idle air control valve look like/located? I'll ask now, but I'll still look for myself I guess...
also, how come you are so smart about this kind of stuff? what books you been reading?

Thanks for your help!!!