Hello Everyone,

As you may have seen in my previous thread, I took off the heads on mt Flathead to get the broken sparkplug off. Once the heads were off, the internals looked quite rough and hence the flathead will have to wait for another time for a rebuild.

So.. I'm planning on yanking out the engine+tranny this weekend. What would be the most logical steps to do this? I'm looking for something like:
- Remove motor mount cotter pins, bolts
- Tranny bolts
- Drive shaft pins, shaft
- Disconnect electricals
- Yank engine out

Is that the most effective way to do this? Sorry for being so picky but I accept to be a newbie and learn from more experienced folks like you.

Thanks!

 

Not sure where you are at in this project.But lets start at the beginning . Drain oil and water,remove radiator,unhook heater hoses,gas linkage,ground wires,distributor and sending unit wires,fuel line,take off carb and cover intake,remove hood,remove exhaust, If you are pulling trans with motor,remove drive shaft,speedo cable,unhook clutch linkage from frame,if it is a floor shift.remove trans cover in cab floor,remove top of trans with shiftier tower,cover open trans top so nothing drops into trans,drain trans fluid [check for metal in fluid ] , If it is a column shift unhook linkage, Now hook chain on motor where it will be balanced and safe. hook up engine hoist,unbolt motor and trans mounts, GET SOME HELP, to guide out motor combo. now put a little pressure on lifting motor,check to make sure everything is unhooked and chain is safe. then slowly raise motor, at this point if everything is unhooked it should come right out. if using a engine crane make sure the legs are long enough that the weight won't flip it over. that should cover the basics. by the way you will over look something and need to get it unhooked.we all do this.

 

As far as lifting, I prefer to lift only the engine. It is heavy enough by itself that I don't care to add another 75 lbs out back. You have the heads off, which helps, but you are still looking at about 500 lbs. With the flywheel and clutch on, the center of gravity (your hook) should be between cylinders 2 -3 / 6 -7.

Lifting with one front and one rear head bolt hole is done, if you use the ones that are near the edge of the block. If you want to make a lifting plate, you can use the intake manifold bolt holes, it gains you at least 6" - 12" of lift height. Exhaust ports holes are good too.

I highly recommend taking the time to find a piece of heavy flat iron, 3/8" thick, bent at a 45-deg angle with holes drilled for a shorter bolt (head bolt size) and at least a 7/16" grade 5 bolt thru the chain. Round the edges of the lifting lug so it won't dig into the head or intake surface (you can bolt it onto the old gasket if it's still there). Tighten the bolt snugly, no slack desired.

If you still have the radiator and front end sheet metal on (the hood has to be off), you're going to have to lift it pretty darn high, so don't scrimp on any part of it! Do it on a nice flat concrete surface, get a buddy to help. Take it slow!

 

awe come on, the hardest thing I find is doing laundry! My youngest boy got one of those new Ranch somethings 4 dr F350 Diesels and it took a dump the second day. Myself I never heard of such nonsense but on these the dealer has to take the body off???? to replace the engine "under warrantee" HOW about trying that in your back yard! This new junk will never make it to being an antique some day and if it does where will you find a computor for a 50 yrs old
vehicle.???????

 

What DRSmith and Ross said, and get one of these engine levelers. They allow you to balance it perfectly, or while lifting you can tilt it either direction (front to back) to assist in getting it out without hitting anything like your radiator.
Good luck with it.

 

Thanks for the tips Doc. I just made a list of things you mentioned and will start getting those off first.

 

Thanks for the tips!.. I actually almost have the front sheet metal off (almost because 3 carriage bolts under the fender that attach to the running boards are rotten and just keep turning. So need to grind and drill them out. Done one side.. working on the other side now).

 

hahaha.. agree. I actually am not a big fan of new trucks and fans myself. I'm only 25 and the cars I've had are a 74 merc comet and a 73 monte carlo. Go figure eh

 

I've just got an engine leveler. I think it should help . Luckily I can borrow these from a partsource near by and return when I'm done for free. Perks of having PartSource in Canada :P

 

I believe DR Smith hit all the items that need to be detached. I'm ready to yank the 390 out of ol' red this week and the only thing left holding it in there are the motor mounts (I have the transmission supported with a jack and a block of wood). If you remove the fenders and radiator (and core support) it's a nice clean shot out the front.

Wally

 

Those motor mounts are interesting!

Btw, do you guys know of any bolt on crossmember with motor mounts for the 302 and c4? I was thinkin of getting Ansen 6872 1953-1964 Ford Pickup Frame Adapter - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop and Universal Bolt-Through Engine Mount Cushion Kit - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

What you think?

 

Yeah... interesting wasn't the term we used but they're interesting none the less. The transmission crossmember was even more interesting. They cut the center section of it out, then welded a pipe to a piece of plate steel (the pipe was the spacer) and then welded the plate to what was left of the crossmember.

I've never looked into a bolt on crossmembers like the ones you had links to. There are tons of pics (on here) of welded on crossmembers and fabbed motor mounts though. The motor mount kit that you linked looks pretty neat (and you won't have to go to a rear sump pan with it. The motor mounts that came off of the frame rails on mine would have worked okay with some gussets added but everything was just too tight with that giant 390 crammed in there.

Wally

 

Wow that's crazy. Some people just loved welding on whatever they think may work eh?
What are you putting in instead of the big motor?

 

I used these, bolt it in and you can adjust tilt easy.

Xmbr Mount Ford Small Block 221-289-302-351 Windsor - Ford F-100 Parts
MotMount Pad, Ford Winsor, One Only - Ford F-100 Parts

 

Were going with a Helix IFS crossmember/steering rack kit and small block engine (from a different manufacturer than Ford... sorry forum members but the price was right). I was going to do the toyota steering box set up but once we got a good look at the engine mounts, the crossmember, and realized the engine had to be "repositioned" just to pull the manual box out I figured we'd go in another direction altogether. My last '51 had the same set up and I loved it. I really hated to sell her but things happen, now I can build another. There are a lot of members who'd love that old flattie you're pulling out. Good luck!

Wally