So I finally got it timed up and it's good at 10btdc and it's running rough , sounds like a misfire , gauge shows it idling fine , but it sounds rough and it is when you rev it , it also blows smoke or some kind of exhaust that you can see , I pulled the plugs and they are dark black , or brown , it starts up every time but it just runs rough , idk why ... The plugs and wires and cap and rotor are all new plugs are standard motor craft plugs gapped at .49 my dad thinks it's running rich , so idk what to do , any help will be much appreciated

 

It IS running rich if the plugs are black.
Check fuel pressure at the rail and report back.
Also, dump the codes.
Finally, take the vacuum line off your fuel pressure regulator and check for any signs of gas inside the vacuum line. Gas in the vacuum line is bad and will cause a rich condition.

And you say it has a new motor, did you install it yourself? Make sure you have the firing order set right? Also, what are the details on the engine?

 

Engine is a brand new standard bore 1995 short block , with ported e7 heads comp 32-255-5, ford svo roller rockers , and long tube headers , I have the egr removed and have a block off plate on it , I don't know how to check fuel pressure at the rail .. How is that done ? But I was able to disconnect the vacuum from the fuel pressure regulator and it smells like gas inside , not super strong but the smell is there, what does that mean ?

 

It means that the diapragm inside the fuel pressure regulator is ruptured. Replace the regulator, pull the plugs and replace them, and make sure you have routed the spark plug wires properly, to avoid inductive crossfiring. There is a Schrader valve on one of the fuel rails, for checking the fuel pressure. Find a mechanic that works on Fords and have him check the pressure after you replace the defective regualor. Dale

 

Thanks guys , I'm pretty sure it's the regulator because it starts okay and will run, just very rough , hesitant on throttle and has black sut on plugs and blows smoke out the pipes and the gas smell on the vacuum , so ill get that changed and the plugs Aswell

 

Well I guess now that I changed the regulator it runs a tiny bit better , but still missing badly and bogging down , every time I try and move the truck it will die when it goes into gear, and what's weird is as it was running my dad pulled of plug number 8 at the plug and nothing changed , ran the same, and still smoking a bit and back firing at high rev
Any thoughts ?

 

Check to make sure all your plug wires are good and make sure your firing order is correct. You also should test fuel pressure. When you test fuel pressure, take the vacuum line off the radiator and cap it so you don't have a vacuum leak. At idle it should be around 39-42 PSI. Check for codes as well. That's the next thing to do, check the codes.

 

I totally meant regulator, not radiator. Lmfao my bad

 

How do I check the fuel pressure ? And some extra things to know too , the fuel injectors are new Aswell , 19 lb ones , and the egr has been deleted , lower intake plugged and upper intake has a block off plate , smog pumped hooked up but with no hoses or anything , I'm
Not sure if that has anything to do with my ongoing problem .. And how can I check the codes ? I've never done anything like that on old trucks like these

Thanks alot

 

Also I was just out this morning , and it's not the MAP sensor but one thing that is weird and Im assuming is tied to the problem is that when I pulled number 8 wire from the plug the truck starts and runs the same , I tried it with number six and it started and ran too , but I could tell it was a little worse , does that mean that there's no spark going to the cylinders ?

 

Go to your local autozone and rent a fuel pressure gauge. Then screw it into your schrader valve on the fuel rail and turn the key on. See what pressure it's at then and write it down, then crank it over and start it up and write down the fuel pressure as it's running.
Also, search on here for how to dump codes. I don't have the link saved, but there's a nice write-up somewhere here on the site on how to do it. All you need is a paper clip.

 

Is this motor in your '89?
Did you mean cam number 31-255-5 or 35-255-5? That's important because they have different firing orders.
Did you use all the original engine wiring?

 

Yeah I meant 31-255-5 . And I'm using the 15426378 firing order and 8 cylinder is dead , just changed the fpr, and when running I can unplug number 8 plug wire and it runs the same , u checked for spark and it's got it , the wires are new ford racing 9mm wires , and the cap is free if cracks , the injectors are new rebuilt ones and I checked the resistance of them and they are all close to each other , around 14.9. And the engines new, it's had rings and everything put in , I also did delete the egr, but I left the electrical connection just there not connected , if that makes a difference . I pull the plugs and they are all black with a little bit of wetness , I think it's oil , doesn't really smell like gas ,
And I'm stumped as to why it will start and run every time , it just runs terrible

 

OK that's right. So this motor is in your '89? Was the old motor running well or did it have similar problems? I wonder if you're chasing a pre-existing problem or not, you could have a bad PCM or some other electronic part.

Checking codes is easy enough and it should be the next thing you do. Find the EEC test harness on the drivers side inner fender and put a jumper between the STI(Self test In) and Sig_Rtn wires, turn the key to run and count the flashes on the check engine light. More info here.. Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test

 

Compression test is in order. At least pull valve cover for driver side( its easier than passenger side) since #8 is located nearest the firewall, and check to see how the valves are working. Remove serpentine belt, and turn engine over with breaker bar or disable ignition and fuel system and use remote start, screwdriver between fender mounted relay contacts, or an assistant to bump or turn the engine over several times while watching the operation of the intake/exhaust valves, rocker arms, and pushrods. Could be pushrod popped out and valve(s) isn't operating.

Also, check codes as everyone mentioned.

Is this the second replacement.engine since the last time you posted here with the rod self-destructing after being over-torqued?