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Hello all, lurked for a while but have a problem that I can't find a similar thread on, so have registered to ask the question.
My V10 is in a 1999 E450 Super Duty C class RV.
Approx 130,000 miles.
When driving, and more when under load, or not lond after being under load and then cruising the power drops and the engine stops. Once it has stopped it can be restarted with no issue.
There is not set distance between cut outs, or certain speed.
Probably related is, if going over a rumble strip or pothole the Check Engine light flickers and it feels like it drops down a gear and then settles back down and continues. Still not DTC stored
No fault codes stored.
When it first happened I beleived it to be fuel supply related due to lack of DTC's, I have changed the fuel pump & fuel filter.
The closest symptoms I can find are IAC issues, but seems to be rough running and stalling when stopping.
The flickering MIL makes me think wiring, but no damaged wiring is obvious
Being based in England there is not a great knowledge base, hence I often look to the USA based sites for info.
Any pointers will be much appreciated
With a lack of direct diagnosis to pinpoint the issue, I elected to change several items.
In an ideal world I would have changed 1 at a time, but as the cutting out was not time or distance based I could not just change one item and go for a quick run to test
We use the RV for towing a race car around England, so not an ideal situation when it does cut out.
So... I changed IAC, TPS & Camshaft Sensor (unlikely but it was cheap and easy to get to, until the bolt snapped, but thats another story)
We have had 3 journeys since changing these, around 600 miles and so far no repeat.
I hope this post may be of some use if other have similar issues.
That's very interesting. Thanks for posting up your findings. The IAC and TPS are probably not the cause, but the CPS (Cam position sensor) could very well cause problems when it gets hot. It's right on the front of the engine, being his with radiator air outflow.
I suspect, however, that you've been lucky so far, and that it's not really fixed. Did you change the CAM or CRANK position sensor? The flickering MIL light when you go over a bump is another thing that doesn't sound like any of the above fixed it.
But who knows
- art k. - Moderator for the Superduty, V10, 6.2L and FE forums
'13 Taurus SHO 3.5L Ecoboost w/Perf Pkg
'01 F250SD SC SB XLT V10 4x4 Volant CAI Hedman headers 5-star custom tunes on SCT X3
'97 Cougar XR7 30th Anniv Edition 4.6L
'74 F250 Highboy FE390 deceased! I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Just wait and see. ®
I bought a used '78 Bronco that had the same problem. It would just shut itself off with no rhyme or reason. The original owner had it to many Ford dealers with no luck. After it shutting down on the major link between Washington and Oregon, I asked my brother in law for help. He had me pull the dash and when he got here he pulled the wrapping from the wire loom and started feeling wires individually. This is while the engine was running. After a couple of minutes he said to replace as much of "this" wire as I could get to. It was getting warm and it would shrink and expand and lose connectivity. I never had another problem. I sure wish I still had that truck. 400 modified, factory roll bar and sliding windows on the topper.
Hybrids, sounds very similar to my V10 stalling. End of the story was a bad catalytic converter. It had self destructed inside and stuff was occasionally clogging exhaust. No codes stored, always started after awhile. I could hear a "rattling" sound and it was the cat. Got it replaces and that solved it.
My link is farther down posted by me f250nut.
I did change the cam position sensor at the same time as the TPS and IAC.
MacEFL's post reminded me that while I had the radiator out to change the CPS (the bolt snapped) I did check the power distribution box/fuse board but everything appeared ok with no damaged/trapped wiring evident.
I have just done another 150 mile towing run with no problems.
Bit more of an update.
Shortly after my last post I was returning from another towing trip, after I left the motorway I hit a pothole and the engine died.
Not like previous when it would drop a gear and the Engine light would flicker, but a slow die like it was running out of fuel.
This was only 20 miles from home, it restarted instantly and we got home ok.
Over winter there were a few jobs to do and I had to drop the drivers panel below the steering column, I noticed the multiplug onto the column was not clipped home fully on one side, I know that the panel has not been off in the time I have owned it, so it is possible it has been loose and causing some of the problems, such as the dropping out of overdrive.
Confident this was the cure to all my ills, I was away for a 200 mile round trip, everything was fine until I came off the motorway on the way home, 20 miles from home and last years pothole jumped out at me again and it died again.
Restarted again no problem and got me home.
Apart from avoiding potholes, I can't think what can resolve this.
The way it dies (no dash lights come on) make me sure it is fuel related, the pothole was not a massive one, just like a dropped grid, it was on the drivers side so I keep thinking it may be fuel relay or fuel shut off related ?
Did you ever check the cat as F250Nut suggested? It's possible that hitting bumps is causing broken catalyst material to temporarily clog the exhaust.
Also, have you visually inspected the engine wiring harness? An intermittent short or open might be the root of your problems. I would visually inspect all engine wiring for loose connectors, possible chafing and rubbing points, damage to wire loom and insulation, etc. If the connection at the ECM is loose or moisture has gotten in there, it might create intermittent problems. Can you induce a stall event by wiggling, gently prying on or manipulating the harness where it connects to the ECM while the engine is running?
I know some 6.0l diesel vans and trucks had issues with their engine wiring harnesses that required replacing or repairing the harness. Here's a PDF file that details the common failure points in early 6.0l diesels.. The information isn't directly applicable to the V10, but the rubbing and chafing issues are common across all electronically controlled engines.
Have a 2002 V10 F250 and had problem of engine cutting off on freeway. Would always restart by putting in neutral or pulling off roadway. No light every indicated problem. Speed and tach indicated ok power until put into neutral to restart, and then tach dropped to -0-. Of course lost all power steering so be careful. After several trips to Ford, it was determined to be the fuel sensor relay or fuel relay which was hard molded into the fuse panel on this year model, and after replacing this part at about $600, have not had any other problems. Might be something to have checked. Good luck. (Earlier models had this relay behind radio on firewall.)
Have a 2002 V10 F250 and had problem of engine cutting off on freeway. Would always restart by putting in neutral or pulling off roadway. No light every indicated problem. Speed and tach indicated ok power until put into neutral to restart, and then tach dropped to -0-.
I have a 2000 F250 that just started something very similar to this this morning. Truck will idle like a sewing machine, no MIL whatsoever, but if you give it any throttle the tach drops, truck will stay running with throttle applied whether a little or matted to the floor. As soon as you let up it returns to idling like a champ. Fuel pump is brand new, plugs are new (Motorcraft). With it idling so smooth I don't feel it is anything coil pack related. Clueless here. For what it is worth truck has 151K on it.
I have posted in a different thread - that I had a similar problem. Originally thought it was a cat converter gone bad (wasn't it) then drained fuel tank and replaced fuel pump, filter, screen, etc. (wasn't it). Then I thought I would remove the aftermarket performance chip I had in it for 12 years - voila!! That was it. Called the aftermarket maker of chip and he actually said that they have experienced those problems. So, now I am just running straight stock calibrations again. Cheap fix (free) worked the best.
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