After a full summer of searching (30 ads responded to, 7 visits, 5 offers, and a missed fully restored car for 5K - UGH), I've got my first F1! It's a 1950 F1 with Flathead 8 and 4-speed, fiberglass fenders and not a whole heck of a lot else I know about it (yet). This will be my project while I work towards a PhD and join my '55 Chevy 210, meaning I'm officially a car collector!
I'm getting paperwork sorted and can drive it home Tuesday. I can't wait to get started. My plans for aesthetics, time and budget permitting:
- Wide white tires on steelies with baby moon caps
- Chrome bumpers, grille bars
- 1952 style F1 bed (stainless strips, maybe oak)
- Repaint (forest green)
- Reupholster (brown / dark tan)
- Misc. (glass, carpet / rubber mat, gaskets, get rid of dopey Ford emblem on tailgate...)
I don't know much about the truck but would love to hear your thoughts on what I should be doing, if there's anything out of the ordinary / wrong era, non-OEM and correctable, etc. The engine is a mystery - the photo I took didn't turn out so I can't post another until Tuesday, but it's a Flathead 8(BA?) with a dual carb intake (don't know the type) and what seems like a sticking exhaust valve or two.
Two first questions to get me started - what's the typical diameter of a carb on these trucks (in a dual carb setup)? I forgot to measure, but I'd like to get an aircleaner ASAP since the truck doesn't come with one. I'm assuming 2 5/8" but I don't know for sure.
The second question is about the sticking valve. Two cylinders had 0 compression, and the truck had a nasty backfire. I think it's a sticking valve, but I've got no idea. I know a teardown and rebuild is the right solution - but is there a shadetree solution I can try in my apartment parking lot, without alienating all the neighbors? I'd love to unstick and drive it until I get the $$ saved up to do the rebuild (somewhere far out of the city). I've got a borescope and was thinking I could drop in some MMO or other cleaner to try and open things up...
An aside -- if anyone is looking for parts, the seller has a pallet full but will only sell together. It had some wheels, air cleaners, heads, 3x hoods, both front fenders (seemed like good steel). I don't know his price, but I'm happy to pass along his contact information. He's in Brooklyn, CT.
Looking forward to being a member of the community, and can't wait to post pictures of my first drive!
Last edited by j_siegel; 08-03-2013 at 05:05 PM.
Reason: Embedded pictures
Looks like a hell of a start on a driver! Other than buffing out the red paint, not sure I'd do anything (well, get rid of the blue oval). Are the fenders still in gelcoat?
By all means get an air cleaner on it ASAP. The necks are a nominal 2-5/8" but check to see if your carb (carbs?) have a straight neck or a beveled neck. Beveled was stock. Does it have two carbs? or did you mean a two-barrel carb?
It sounds like you have a stuck intake valve or two, likely (unfortuantely) from water getting in thru the carb. The best solution would be to pull the intake manifold, which is surprisingly easy; don't have to drain the radiator, just remove the carb, the generator, fan, and fuel pump. No telling what kind of mess you'll find inside, but you can work on the valves with penetrating oil and a pry bar with the manifold off. If it is full of sludge in there, you can scoop it out and clean the area pretty well. Just don't leave it open in the rain!
If you don't have a manual, get one before trying much.
When I got my truck, I had a sticking intake valve on #1. I could see it through the plug hole. I did a very "stupid" thing and got very lucky. After spraying about 6 gallons of PB blaster, marvel mystery oil, etc. at it, I got a cheap straight screwdriver and bent the end of it in a vice. I then fished it down through the plug hole and very carefully pushed the valve back down. I cranked the engine over and it came back up and stuck again. I pushed it back down and then I heard a little click. I looked down the plug hole and the valve was seated and in the correct position. It worked perfectly after that. Now, I'm just telling you a story. I would not recommend this. Just sayin.....
BTW, why on earth would you want to put a 51-52 bed on a 48-50 truck? Both are reproduced nowadays.
Thanks for the warm welcome! I've got the insurance good to go so I need to figure out if I'm going to have the car towed or see if I can drive it home (I know it's a non-interference engine, don't know what havoc I can wreak on the engine depending on which valve is stuck - though the backfires definitely appear to be through the exhaust).
The flatty has dual carbs, I believe the neck is straight. I've ordered two 2 5/8" cleaners and will return those if they don't fit. Good to know the valves are easy to get to - I have the shop manual on the way already. The one for my Chevy is a lifesaver, I'd never do a classic without again.
We'll see about the wide-whites. I like the look, but I also like a white stripe. Black, knobby tires look perfect but I don't like the way they work with baby moons. Personal preference.
As for the bed, I was under the impression 48-50 was metal over wood, and 51-52 was the wood with bed strips. I much prefer the look of a wood bed, but perhaps I should've said bed floor. The sheetmetal is staying just as it is.
Welcome aboard - Great to see another '50 member on here!
A couple of small ones:
o You can get little replacement springs that fit inside your door handles & will keep them from sagging. A nice cheap fix..
o Looks like you have the single window wiper. It's a pain to put in the passenger one - unfortunately the kits are expensive - around $300 or you can try it with a Mini Cooper or Jeep wiper - they are rumored to work with some effort.
o Door locks - these trucks have an odd locking arrangement - You are supposed to lock the drivers door from the inside & slide across the seat & get out near the sidewalk. A safety measure for 1950 parallel parking. After market locks can be installed to solve the inconvenience.
o You will want to move toward a dual chamber master cylinder for safety reasons when you get a chance.
Your truck looks great! I agree with Jim's comment - I wish we had started with such a nice truck. They sell wood bed kits for the 1950.
Got 'em home and then took a vacation to spend some time with my '55 Chevy (full clutch job and new transmission)! I'll be back with Henry late tonight and have more pictures and stories to post soon. The 100 mile trip home was a blast, but had its ups and downs. Upshifts are easy but I can't for the life of me match the downshifts yet.
On the way home, I ran out of gas immediately. The gauge doesn't work, I guess because the truck was 12V converted but the gauge isn't. The ignition cylinder fell apart, stranding me (briefly), and parking was a chore since I didn't have a front parking brake cable. A friend followed me home and told me the rear was wobbling like crazy, and it turns out the rear wheels didn't clear the drum retaining bolts and the previous owner had bolted the wheel down on top. After a quick trip to a tire shop, that was resolved and he made it home just fine.
Some MMO cleared up the valves pretty well. Just a bit left to go on that, but now part of the backfiring must be due to too much fuel pressure from the electric pump. I've ordered a dual master cylinder, parking brake cable, and new ignition cylinder. I'm thinking I might look into a disc kit just because it's mostly a city truck, but that's up in the air. I have some shoulder belts I ordered to put in but need to figure out the welding situation. I have a TIG on campus but don't own an extension cord long enough to get 220 out to the truck, but I'll ask around at the exhaust shops. Shouldn't be too hard to lay a bead on the upper mounts.
I really do plan on light-siding as much as possible, but what with city driving, safety is a big concern.
The post-inspection list is: new rear leafs, door lock (no lock cylinder - even on the passenger side), and driver vent window. Then he'll be a driver! More pics once I'm landed... promise!